TR7 & TR8 Forum

Did you repair or replace some worn out parts?
Add a new accessory?
Take it out for a drive on twisty back roads?

What did YOU do with your TR7 or TR8 today?

Post your update below......

Today I installed a fog light switch, found the correct wires and hooked up the system, so it works as it should. Still finishing the rear brakes and replacing the axel seals and packing the bearings. Also put on the spin-on oil filter adapter, no more messy canister for me. Hopefully... tomorrow I test drive the 5 speed conversion.
Ken

I loosened the dist and turned it until the engine ran better and not lining it up with the timing mark. It now runs better than its has ever run.

That's kind of odd. Rotor in good condition? Do these distributors have vacuum advance?

Skye

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Webmaster, The Triumph Experience

Today I purchased a new starter relay, the one behind the panel in the glove box, so that the TR7 will now crank over. Now to just replace that leaky rear brake cylinder.

I am guessing the car has a vacuum retard, and that retard is not operational. This results in severely retarded timing if you follow the shop manual procedure for setting the timing. I am betting that Wilbur now has the ignition set much closer to where it should have been all along, hence the improved performance.

I tell people to disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor and set the timing to 10 BTDC. This will always give you the correct timing, even if the vacuum retard capsule is fried.

Vance

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1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, frame off restoration, complete.
1974 Jensen Healey, now assembled and awaiting startup. =:-)

New rotor, dist cap. wires and Lumition cutter. AF meter adjusted and set with gizzmo. It could be 10' off from TDC and it really made a big difference in performance. I think its running cooler also. More time on the road coming.

Listed mine for sale in the registry! Has to go to make way for a Land Rover.

Today i continued re assembling my 1979 TR7 motor. I had the engine bored .040 over and changed the 8:1 pistons to the 9.25:1 pistons.. had the head reworked and installed new valves and seals.. Im not putting the emissions back on as i don't need to get it inspected. The charcoal canister is broken and the smog pump is frozen. I don't know if the egr valve still works so it will not go back on either. My car has a/c but it is not going back on either. I am completely going through the car. I have been working in the engine cavity and have removed all the rust from it, need to finish removing the unneeded parts in the engine compartment.. I have all new bushing for the complete car suspension and new motor mounts and brakes. I still need to replace all the break lines and fuel lines from the tank. This week i will be send my carbs to Joe in Ny for complete polish and rebuild and the distributor is going to go to advanced Distributor in Mn .. Figured its out why not bring them to as new as possible. Everything else in the car is new.. Its an ongoing project.

Has anybody else removed all the emissions and if so did you run into any problems .. Any information will be a big help..

Mike:

Removing the EGR valve will slightly reduce your highway fuel economy, and will not gain you anything in performance. If it is operational, I recommend leaving it in place.

While you have the engine apart, I also recommend porting your heads. Its easy to do, and it will get you a big pop in power, without costing you anything in terms of drivability, idle, or emissions. Here are some instructions: DIY porting

Vance

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1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, frame off restoration, complete.
1974 Jensen Healey, now assembled and awaiting startup. =:-)

Have the carbs and linkage about 90% removed. Then on to a pro for rebuilds….No blood yet….

Changed the rear springs and replaced them with VB heavy duty pair. Easy job.

Replaced the fuel filler neck hose and the breather hoses. Found out the filler neck restricter was was loose and dropped it off at the welders. Pick it up in the morning and one more job done. Also glued in some new carpet.

Got the carbs off…a real SOB….the last nut would not come loose…had to take the linkage apart then remove the front carb to get a better angle on the nut….lots of WD 40 and voila….they are off to be rebuilt but not so sure if i can re install and tune…my buddy who is rebuilding them and is on the MG exp. side here said he would come up from Tucson and help me do it…God Bless him…lol

The filler neck is a two piece deal that is joined together with low temp lead solder. You can heat them up with the plumbers torch and pull them apart, then simply remove the loose restrictor and put it back together. Just need to mark both sides so they go back together with the exact same orientation. Whole process takes about 10 minutes, but then again, I'm a plumber.