TR6 Tech Forum

Good afternoon . I just cant find the fittings that were in my fuel pump on my 69 2.5 TR-6 . It needs to have the flare adapter in it. I assume it NPT into the pump and the flare fitting on 5/16 fuel line threads into that . The flare fitting can and will screw all the way into the pump but wont tighten down on the fuel line. Ive tried the part stores and they are trying to convince me its (AN) . Whats the actual size and pitch. Thanks Frank

I recall reading on one of the forums about this; either the pump threads were to long or the flare fitting to short to seal the line.

Here is the thread, issue begins at post #24.

https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr6-tech-forum.2/gas-line-leak-at-the-fuel-pump.1924988/page-2



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2023-07-26 01:27 PM by 46er.

Frank,
Is the pump new? Show us a photo of the pump, including the locations where the fuel lines screw in. If the pump is of the variety that has an extended boss for the threads, the original fitting for the fuel line may not suffice. Either a longer fitting, or as Ken has done, remove material from the face of the boss to get the fitting to bottom in the pump.

Just checked my old pump - both the input and output threads are 1/2"-20 or AN -5. Threads are not tapered.

The 5/16" flare fitting for the input should be easy enough to find at the auto parts store.
The 1/4" flare for the output see eBay link in this post:
https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr6-tech-forum.2/gas-line-leak-at-the-fuel-pump.1924988.1932086/#msg-1932086

Easiest move may be to order from one of the usual suppliers.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2023-07-26 11:41 PM by steveg2.

Try TRF

Thank you all . Its the stock pump . The feed line to the pump was bigger than the line to the carbs ????? There are no flare fittings inside the pump for the tubing to seat on . Im using the original sweep 90* on the inlet and it wont hold the tube in place . Thats why i thought "Inverted flare male adapters were used . Its the same size hole for both in and out so I made another 5/16ths supply to carbs. Having a longer fitting wont put compression on the flare . At least I was told its 1/2 X 20 so Im going to get two inverted male flare adapters. After 3 yrs. of fixing what needs fixin , Im not gonna burn her down . You guys are the best ! Frank

Frank,
Both fittings have the 1/2-20 threads. They're called flare fittings, but for the fuel pump, they both use compression rings: one is 5/16"; the other is 1/4".
One fitting has a 5/16" hole through, the other 1/4". The output to the carbs is 1/4" tubing. The input from the tank is 5/16" tubing.

Steve : You simply answered the question to the tee. I tank you ! I just couldnt see the seats for the compression rings and assumed I misplaced the inserts . I bought a 3/8 Thematic switch to turn on the elect fan. Wanted to use the hole on the right side of the water pump. The left side has the original temp sender. Cant find out the thread pitch on the hole either. This is the second switch Ive bought and it wont thread in either. The temp sender screws into booth holes. Ill buy a tap and clean out the threads. Frank

Frank,
The sender threads are BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel). I wouldn't try to re-tap them or you'll likely ruin the water pump housing. There are other non-invasive options for a fan switch:

BPNW sells a coolant pipe (lower rad) with a boss for a switch.

You can also get an upper-hose adapter (picture).



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2023-07-29 08:08 AM by steveg2.

Again Thank you Steve I will be buying one of these today from Amazon.Only because Im in Ct. and BPNW takes 7 to 8 days to get anything unless you spend three times what your purchase is . Get ready because UPS employees as of August 1st have a sizeable raise already agreed on and Im assuming all will feel the raise Frank

Here is my take on this problem. Dealing with the pump Moss sell they advise installing new ferrules. The ferrules Moss supplies are not as thick as originals. Not sure if that is a good description. What I ended up doing to make mine work was to take 2 ferrules and grind off about 1/4 of each piece. Then install the 2 with the ground down ends together. The fresh new ends went into the pump and screw in fitting. They crimped down fine and I have no leaks. If you have an original pump and need to replace it on the road with a new Moss pump you will have lots of trouble getting the lines to seal. I made up some new stub lines to carry in my parts kit in case I run into someone with a problem on the road. Taking some material off the face of the new pump is a great idea and I will probably do that to the new pump I carry as a spare. Always some stuff to deal with.

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70 TR6 CP series PI LHD, MGBs TR8