TR2 & TR3 Forum

Greetings fellow forum members...

Would appreciate any feedback for the inner sill position... I'm pretty sure my sills have been replaced and it sure looks like its (this side anyway) a bit too far forward..

I would expect the front to line up with the angle of the bulkhead (see pic) and would expect the rear to be closer to the inside of the inner fender (see pic)... In fact, wondering if the flanges to the rear were supposed to be welded to the inner fenders..

Any insight would be very much appreciated..


Cheers
Joe O

---

Cheers
Joe Otero
1963 TR3B TCF 1227 - Beatrice

Hey Joe,

You are absolutely correct. It looks like it is, maybe, 3/8" forward of perfect. That said...in TR3 terms it isn't really that far off. The front wing will cover the little bump in the front, and the tab in the rear can be tapped back to contact the rear-inner wing and welded. Of course the rear is hidden completely. So, I would be prone to work with it as it is. If you are a perfectionist, then you can spend the day or so to move it back to perfect.

---

John
Arlington, TX

'55 TR2

Hey John,

Thanks for the feedback.. so much appreciated... LOL on the perfectionist reference.. When I was young.. boy was I.. to the point of screwing up things.

Yeah, I do admit it bothers me.. but I'll see how far I need to bend the back flanges and make a decision... have to get to the point of fixing that lower inner fender section first..

Another consideration - The A & B posts are a bit questionable too in so far as the welding to the sill.. so having to bust those loose may factor in too... And believe me.. going to be real easy to bust them loose - a bit wiggly already... Might be the best opportunity to move it back while the tops of the A & B posts are in place (hope that makes sense)... .. hmm... am I rationalizing :-) LOL


Thanks again John

Cheers
Joe O

---

Cheers
Joe Otero
1963 TR3B TCF 1227 - Beatrice



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-29 09:58 AM by JoeOtero.

From "Jurassic Park"..."You can make it through a day without eating, but try going a day without a single rationalization"! Without them it would be really hard to move forward without constantly second guessing what we've done...

---

John
Arlington, TX

'55 TR2



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-29 07:59 PM by CJD.

Well, I'm in deep now... Just couldn't leave it with the bad welds and A & B post just barely hanging on... In fact, in the process the A post popped loose... Like hell...when I'm I going to get a better opportunity :-)

Anyway, its off now... Need to clean up the floor flange and other areas.... Glad I did it... surface rust between floor flange and ridge across the top of the sill... AND the shit that came out of the sill... Media AND Styrofoam packing.. really... maybe packing from sills getting shipped.. previous restorer didn't clear out.. got me!

Any suggestions on making sure I fit it up correctly would be welcomed.. Already know I need to move the floor mounts a wee bit... didn't align with the mounting point for one one hole anyway..

Keeps playing in my head... worst case I have a pile of vintage metal... But I will press on when I can (damn work gets in the way)...


Cheers
Joe O

---

Cheers
Joe Otero
1963 TR3B TCF 1227 - Beatrice



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-29 08:48 PM by JoeOtero.

It’s that old saying..... if something is worth doing then you might as well do it right.Whenever I’ve done something half way it just eats at me. And ,inevitably, it bites you in the ass somewhere.As I’ve gotten older I’ve conceded to myself that I’m totally anal.Hate anything done half assed. It’s a miracle I’m still with my wife! The queen of half way!!( she doesn’t read the forum comments LOL)

I like that "Queen of half way"... too funny

---

Cheers
Joe Otero
1963 TR3B TCF 1227 - Beatrice

Well, decided to play around with the fit..Where I think it should be positioned any way... And yet not sure I accomplished what I set out to do. (That is push the inner sill back to get it aligned with the slant of the lower bulkhead ( I think that's what its called).. I like the rear fit.. now right up against the inside of the inner fender. The lower bulkhead as it butts up the the inner fender has a gap.. So, maybe I'm dealing with a line of alignment that incorrect.. (if that makes any sense)..

See pics.. used clamps in various places to close up the gaps for the A & B post.. The far right floor front section is folded up and is somewhat suspect... Its not resting on the sill ledge properly.. Floors are really not that bad.. But they way they were put in.. I may cut these out and go for a new set..

Does any one know if the vertical plane of the sill should be level?

Any feedback would be appreciated.. (MAN I SURE WISH I WAS DEALING WITH SOMETHING UNMOLESTED).... The previous restoration was total SHIT! Most \ ALL references as it is are compromised.. At very least suspect.



Cheers
Joe O

---

Cheers
Joe Otero
1963 TR3B TCF 1227 - Beatrice



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-30 07:07 PM by JoeOtero.

When I set the sills I used the outrigger mounting bolts as the primary locators. The floor mounting holes had to be opened in a couple places to align the floors to the inner sills. The outriggers will set the level and angle of the sill...and then all other levels are set off the sills. This assumes the mounts are already welded to the inside of the inner sills. Are your mounts welded? If the sill mounts are still loose, then you have a lot more work coming!

---

John
Arlington, TX

'55 TR2

Hey John..

Oh yeah... For sure that makes sense (outriggers setting the level and angle)..

Yes, the sill has the mounting brackets welded in.. At one point I had thoughts of removing them to reposition on the sill to match up with the floor holes... I also thought I should tack the sills to the floor flange. But now I'm thinking the sill brackets should remain where they are and not weld the floor flange to the sill until I decide if I'm going to use the current floor or get a new set.

Still thinking if I should tack in the A & B posts to the sill (not too well.. just enough to hold position on the sill) before lowering the tub to the chassis... Sure wish I had a spare chassis.. (wish I knew better before finishing - but we learn as we go)..

The floor holes no longer line up (they were a tad off before as well)... I'll drill through from the bottom to retain the shape of the bracket holes...

Thanks John. Much appreciated..


Joe O

---

Cheers
Joe Otero
1963 TR3B TCF 1227 - Beatrice

A few more clamps added and I think its where it should be (well, where I like it)... I'll lower the tub on to the chassis and see if will work out... Have to wait for another weekend when its not raining...

If I do get it lined up where I like it while on the chassis I'll just tack weld and then try fitting the front fender and door...



Cheers
Joe O

---

Cheers
Joe Otero
1963 TR3B TCF 1227 - Beatrice

I could be wrong, but I felt the thicker inner sills were more true than the stamped floors. My floor holes lined up about like yours do, so I just opened up the floor holes with a die grinder to match the sill mounts. The main thing is that the floors should set into the ledge in the sills made to take them. Make sure they set fully down onto the sill and outward against the sill seam weld. Then they can be slid fore/aft as required to get the best “average” fit to the rear floors and the front firewalls. Note I say “average”, as they will never fit perfectly. Just play with them until you get the best overall fit. The front AND rear of the floors may need to be trimmed to length. On mine the front took about an an inch of trimming. Closer to 1/4” at the rear.

Of course...to complicate even more, be sure to check the center tunnel-to-floor fit before trimming and finally setting the floors. Then, when you are about to pull your hair out because none of it fits perfectly...choose the “best” position and weld the floors into the sills.

The “B” posts come next, fit best to the rear section of the tub.

Once the “B”’s are tacked in place, then use your doors to locate and tack the “A” posts. The front tub will locate off the “A”’s.

Hope all this sequence makes sense. Let me know if I need to elaborate on any of it. Also not sure if you have followed my thread that shows pics of all this:

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?102796-Beginning-the-TR2-Bodywork

You are down to the part near the middle of the thread

---

John
Arlington, TX

'55 TR2



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-30 11:01 PM by CJD.

Holly crap! Excuse the language, but I’ve been following this door, floors,sill,a,b post fitment. Scary amount of work.Admirable to take it on.As much as everyone states these cars were basically hand built it’s obviously daunting to deal with floor,sill, door fitment issues. I’ve seen so many TRs with horrible door issues,obviously from someone not taking the time to make sure the foundation(sills and floor) aren’t 100% for fit. I only ever worked on unibodies, so much easier!!Looks like you’re on the right path to a great end result! Good luck!!

Thanks John..

So much appreciate the advice from someone that has been down this road... Your thread is invaluable.. Its been a favorite bookmark for a while..

I'm now thinking it would be more prudent to salvage the floors I have... And not so hard to believe... the previous restorer didn't trim front or back floor overhang..

Thanks again John

Cheers
Joe O

---

Cheers
Joe Otero
1963 TR3B TCF 1227 - Beatrice

Shhhhhhhhhh.... That's enough of that talk Michael.. LOL... I'm second guess myself all the time... I come here to get advice and gain confidence.. I'm sure if you put your mind to it you'd be just as good as you are with unibody units..

Cheers
Joe O

---

Cheers
Joe Otero
1963 TR3B TCF 1227 - Beatrice