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What did you do to your Spitfire or GT6 today?

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bonnett1954 Avatar
bonnett1954 Silver Member Dave Bonnett
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
1978 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Union Jack"
Drove it. Really got into it today. 68 degree weather, top down, the sights, the sounds, the smells. the handling and cornering, wow what a blast!

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Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
Isn't it though?

Reminds me of the Boxer in turns.

Growe58 Avatar
Growe58 Greg Rowe
Hatfield, PA, USA   USA
In reply to # 1504675 by byakk0 Santa brought Abby her own tools and she had to help me on the carbs today.
I made a little headway on them myself, but still not satisfied. Something is funky with my carbs. I may need new needles and/or jets.

There is a button that we can click when a post is interesting or helpful, but not one for when it puts a huge smile on my face. This post needed that button. Beautiful pictures, Hazen!

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cmfisher4 Avatar
cmfisher4 Gold Member Chris Fisher
Mystic, CT, USA   USA
Car is really coming together, Chris. Must be very excited to be at that stage!

As for me, I did some straightforward repairs today, in preparation for the bottom of the rear valance, which scares me a bit.

Cheers,
Chris



I learn something new every day...especially if I am working on my LBC!
Please visit my blog and website at http://www.roundtailrestoration.com


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christrish Avatar
christrish Gold Member Chris B
Lehi, UT, USA   USA
Chris, keep up the great work! Way more ambitious than me on that tub with all the metal banging. I'm finding through this restoration process that I like wrenching on motors more than bodywork, but what do I have the most of left? Bodywork... sad smiley

Worked on the front valences last night. Stripped off the marker light, brackets, etc. Some rust to be fixed in the bottom corners. Remind me again what gauge steel the body is? 16ga? I've only done mostly chassis metalwork to this point.



Working to take the "D" out of DPO since 2013
Follow my restoration progress: http://73spitfire1500.blogspot.com


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Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
Wear noise deadening headphones.

Your neighbors will love you.

cmfisher4 Avatar
cmfisher4 Gold Member Chris Fisher
Mystic, CT, USA   USA
Chris, my stuff seems to be all 20ga.



I learn something new every day...especially if I am working on my LBC!
Please visit my blog and website at http://www.roundtailrestoration.com

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christrish Avatar
christrish Gold Member Chris B
Lehi, UT, USA   USA
In reply to # 1504907 by cmfisher4 Chris, my stuff seems to be all 20ga.

Glad to hear. I wasn't looking forward to trying to bend/form 16ga around those bottom edges on the valence!



Working to take the "D" out of DPO since 2013
Follow my restoration progress: http://73spitfire1500.blogspot.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-12-29 04:27 PM by christrish.

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
On a '79 Spit harness, I pulled all the buzzer wire connections out of the harness along with all the warning lights and their wires. Pretty good stack.
Got the brake light wires and warning switch wires out as I will be adding solid lines from the master.
Just by chance you are looking at some wires and wonder were they go, if it has a orange strip in it, it's buzzer related, all but the one going to the radiator fan.
Purple powers a bunch of stuff and has a big cluster like the brown under the dash.
Did not find any signs of melting in the harness, so glad I went to this trouble to make the harness for the Spit6. The ignition switch has a double purple/black wire to run most of the buzzer stuff, so was able to get that out.
I did a Journal on the radiator fan wires..



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

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Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
If you are going to wrap your own include speaker wires and an accessory run. You can always use it for a power antenna or 3rd brake light.

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Thanks Doug, Lots of speaker wire on a roll on the shelf, good idea. I did think about it and cut the purple/black ones on the ignition switch long for that purpose.
One other thing I left was the wire from the ignition switch to the three way connector for the distributor, just have to add a bit of wire to get to the coil without a resistor.
Lucky me, I do have the old rocker switch with six prongs, so will add the small connectors on to the wires and hope that will work.
Left the temp sending wire in, just in case the duel gauge has a problem., along with the oil sending unit wire and light. Hope to put the "T" connector there. I feel sure I need to go over it some more and take the wires out of the system on the rear portion from the connector on the buzzer junk.
What a great project to to in the house when it's 17 degrees outside.
Just thought, I should add the speaker wires to the plug in harness where the seat belt ones go, I'll check and see if they would go behind the panel on the back shelf. Can always add, just not the same.
Doug, you are making me annul.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

byakk0 Avatar
byakk0 Hazen Wardle
Boise, ID, USA   USA
There's a spitfire rebuild on pakwheels.com; the guy doing it hand formed floors and those corner valances with not much more than a hammer and dolly.

If I had more time on my hands I'd say send them my way.

In reply to # 1504923 by christrish
In reply to # 1504907 by cmfisher4 Chris, my stuff seems to be all 20ga.

Glad to hear. I wasn't looking forward to trying to bend/form 16ga around those bottom edges on the valence!



- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
~Hazen.

JohnW63 John Williamson
Apple Valley, CA, USA   USA
Today, we installed new bushings the the upper and lower A-arms ( wishbones I guess ) and installed the ball joints, trunions, and bolted them on the chassis. Sounds like a 30 minute job. It wasn't.

None of the rubber bushing were actually the right diameter. We could get about 1/2 way in and the rubber would start bulging too much to continue. No amount of soapy water would make a difference. We also found the metal inner part was a tad too long to fit in the brackets on the chassis. I used a razor blade and judicious use of the wire brush on the bench grinder to reduce the rubber diameter and the grinder wheel to reduce the over all length of the bushing metal center. Even still, they did not slide in easily. The ball joints didn't precisely fit either. The hole spacing for the bolts was a touch wider than the holes in the A-arms. I had to use a small pointy grinder bit on the cordless drill to slightly ovalate the holes in the a-arms to get the bolts to line up. Still a tight fit. We found we had to have some of the bushings not even on either side of the upper a-arms that attach in the bolt on brackets to get the part to slide in the bracket. Otherwise, one side or the other of the bushing would hit the bracket. An off center bushing meant a centered a-arm leg in the bracket. Lastly, we cleaned and painted a few parts before we installed them.

It's nice to have some parts actually going on the car. We've been in the identify, clean, fix process. We're waiting on the next batch of parts, but our main source took this week off. Some parts for the rear suspension and new front rotors will eventually be on the way.



Home of the 1969 GT6+ MK II resurrection project
and a sorry looking 1968 GT6+ parts car trying to stay whole.

SpitMan Avatar
SpitMan Doug Walls
Brandywine, MD, USA   USA
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "Lil' Red Fox"
1998 Chevrolet Corvette "Silver Fox"
2007 Chevrolet Silverado "Workhorse"
2013 Chevrolet Malibu "Pearl Baby"
Hazen,

Are you sure that is the correct web address? Comes up with a Pakistan Car dealership.

In reply to # 1504998 by byakk0 There's a spitfire rebuild on pakwheels.com; the guy doing it hand formed floors and those corner valances with not much more than a hammer and dolly.

If I had more time on my hands I'd say send them my way.

In reply to # 1504923 by christrish
In reply to # 1504907 by cmfisher4 Chris, my stuff seems to be all 20ga.

Glad to hear. I wasn't looking forward to trying to bend/form 16ga around those bottom edges on the valence!

Greg1835 Avatar
Greg1835 Greg S
Rudolph, WI, USA   USA
In reply to # 1505000 by JohnW63 Today, we installed new bushings the the upper and lower A-arms ( wishbones I guess ) and installed the ball joints, trunions, and bolted them on the chassis. Sounds like a 30 minute job. It wasn't.

None of the rubber bushing were actually the right diameter. We could get about 1/2 way in and the rubber would start bulging too much to continue. No amount of soapy water would make a difference. We also found the metal inner part was a tad too long to fit in the brackets on the chassis. I used a razor blade and judicious use of the wire brush on the bench grinder to reduce the rubber diameter and the grinder wheel to reduce the over all length of the bushing metal center. Even still, they did not slide in easily. The ball joints didn't precisely fit either. The hole spacing for the bolts was a touch wider than the holes in the A-arms. I had to use a small pointy grinder bit on the cordless drill to slightly ovalate the holes in the a-arms to get the bolts to line up. Still a tight fit. We found we had to have some of the bushings not even on either side of the upper a-arms that attach in the bolt on brackets to get the part to slide in the bracket. Otherwise, one side or the other of the bushing would hit the bracket. An off center bushing meant a centered a-arm leg in the bracket. Lastly, we cleaned and painted a few parts before we installed them.

It's nice to have some parts actually going on the car. We've been in the identify, clean, fix process. We're waiting on the next batch of parts, but our main source took this week off. Some parts for the rear suspension and new front rotors will eventually be on the way.

Where did you get your ball joints from, John? I had the same problem with the ones I got from VB. They sent some replacement ones and they were better, but still not the same as the originals. They were close enough that I could at least get them installed. I didn't want to alter the A-frame holes. Looks like ball joints are just another part that the suppliers don't pay much attention to. Glad you got yours together. Oh, and then after being on the car for about 6 months (all garage time), the rubber seals both cracked. I ended up getting a new pair of ball joints from BPNW. I hope these last a bit longer!

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