LOL !

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Dave
1970 Spitfire Mk3
FDU 78359L
34/11 (Jasmine yellow/Black interior)

1962 Triumph TR3B
TCF 575L
Signal Red/Red interior

Greg,

So far, we've gotten all our parts from Spitbits, with the exception of the CV rear axles, which we got from RimmerBros.

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Home of the 1969 GT6+ MK II resurrection project
and a sorry looking 1968 GT6+ parts car trying to stay whole.

We changed out the bushings on the rear leaf spring, which went smoothly. We changed out the bolts through the trunion, because we had those holes rewelded due to being misshaped and the extra material needed longer bolts to get a good number of turns in the lock nuts.

We tried to get the front shocks and springs in, but our attempts failed. The internet video my dad just sent me shows I need to build the whole spring and shock as a unit and then sort of muscle the unit in place. The muscling part might be harder for us, because the car is not firmly on the ground, but is just a chassis on a rotisserie. I'll try the new way, next weekend.

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Home of the 1969 GT6+ MK II resurrection project
and a sorry looking 1968 GT6+ parts car trying to stay whole.

It is correct. Here's the link. I just forgot how deep it was buried.
https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/t/restoration-story-of-my-spitfire-convertible/64262

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~Hazen.

John, once your rebuild that shock/spring assembly, it is very easy to install, not a lot of muscling involved. In fact, once you bolt the shock to the lower A frame you will have to lift the whole section up to get the three top bolts through the upper mount area.
Dan

Finally got some parts in for the new spit.... and the temperature came up to almost 13 degrees during the heat of the day..... Garage was a chilly 30 +/-....... but I slapped in the new temp sensor - and now my water temp gauge is working..... Woo woo! Not exactly as ambitious as most of ya'll........ but ya gotta start somewhere..... Took her out for a spin - and nearly freaked out when - as I was shifting into 4th during an aggressive start - she redlined while out of gear..... popped the clutch and tapped the accelerator - and she came back into line properly.... Back at the garage I checked the throttle linkage to the PO's Weber upgrade - to find his homemade return spring system was woefully inadequate to the point of scary..... Glad I found that before my daughter's first driving lesson...... Mebbe a little linkage work tomorrow - we're going to have a heat wave - might hit 18....

Z

One handy way of moving things like this into position is to use a Ratchet Strap (cargo hold-down strap) to pull things together. Wish I had a picture to share. I used this method after rebuilding my spring assembly. Should work for your GT-6 suspension also.

I first tried to muscle mine into place but then used the ratchet strap what a difference; very easy.

Good luck,

Doug/SpitMan

Set my new roof down record at 18 degrees F. Honestly wasn't too bad, Spitfires seem to deflect wind and collect heat pretty well. A lot better than my Miata.

Tinkered with the carbs and went for a short drive.

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~Hazen.

I abandoned my webber after I found that the linkage for the primary and secondary would get pulled too far open and then stick open. No mater the amount of springs or adjusting of linkages between the primary/secondary. This happened to me 2 times on highway on ramps. Only recourse was to use the key to shut it off. I'm now using a single stromberg from a 74 that has the large runner manifold and a manual choke. Once set up properly this has been trouble free for me for years.

Proper adjustment of linkages of all types of carburetors is crucial for proper operation. Does not matter what type it is. If it binds or catches; you did something wrong. Don't blame the carb!

Just say'n!!!

I think I have to agree with Doug..... We are adding things not designed specifically for our vehicles..... some work out of the box - others take tweaking.... i'm going over my linkage carefully today (after yesterday's red line fiasc0).... and am certain I can come up with a good looking (important) and functional (more important) solution....

Z

Addendum: thinking outside the expressed concerns..... If your manifold is set up for a SU - and you install a Weber or anything different..... the clearances for the butterflies (internally), linkage (external) could potentially cause them to stay open when you want them closed or closing.... One reason I always used an adapter plate when putting a Holly 850 dbl pumper on a big block HP engine....

Z

Good point!

Finally got Huxley running again. After several aborted attempts to get a new Fuel Pressure Regulator from distributors, I went directly to Holley and ordered it through them. It arrived yesterday and took a bit of time to mount due to the already crowded shelf behind the engine.

But it solved the problem and now He is starting very easily and runs fine.