Spitfire & GT6 Forum

Anybody replaced front floor pans before?

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chaz2000 Avatar
chaz2000 c s
Just received the front floor pans.

Anybody replace your front floor pans before? Did you document the replacement (videos or pics)?
Advice? How big a hammer will I need? LOL. (Maybe I shouldn't laugh!)

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britsnspits Avatar
britsnspits Michael Stoliker
Bethlehem, PA, USA   USA
1976 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "The Phoenix"
1978 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Lucky"
You can try this website for ideas. Or just try Google "replacing Spitfire floor plans" like I did. I've already read the articles Google found.

The article above covers two repeating themes that I've encountered reading about this process. 1. Brace the door frame with steel box section tubing either welded to the body, or welded to plates that are bolted firmly to the body. You can buy adjustable premade braces from some of the vendors out there, but building your own may be preferable. 2. Don't remove the inner sills (and probably any of the sills) until you've fitted the new floor. You need the inner sill to find the level for the outer part of the floor pan. If you aren't replacing sills this isn't an issue. If you are replacing sills, having a properly fitted floor pan and rigid bracing will help your doors fit right when you go to put them back on.

On the subject of door braces. I've heard that they keep the door opening from sagging due to weak sills. Most of the designs I've seen have either one bar across the top, or two bars in a Vee shape from the hinge points to the convertible top mount. I think the latter might be best, and I'd even condsider a reverse "Z" shape with additional vertical struts at the ends and cross braces between the doors. Why? Because some of the repairs I've seen didn't seem to fit well at the back of the door & I wonder if the B-pillar puckered in at the bottom when the floor was out. Having a full cage jig in the body shell might be overkill, but it might not either. Propbably just something else to bump your head on while welding.

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