TRExp

Spitfire & GT6 Forum

Body to Frame Spacers

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Roy Avatar
Roy roy o
Marietta, GA, USA   USA
Are they used to correct a bent frame ? From factory all around ? or to shim an out of spec frame ?

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spitlist Avatar
spitlist Joe Curry
Sahuarita, Sahuarita, AZ, USA   USA
The second one. If you look at any of the manuals that are available, you will see that there are pre-determined aluminum spacers and/or rubber disks used in assembly.

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Most have two aluminum ones under the body at the front firewall mount and two aluminum ones under the gas tank. The rest are the rubber ones.
If you have painted your frame, be sure and run a tap into all the mount holes, couple of different sizes. 3/8 24 and 5/16 24.
Of course all bets are off on what someone did 40 or 50 years ago. You can change the door gap slightly. Oh the ones under the floor cross member are a lot of fun.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

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TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
1978 Triumph 1500 "BLK-BRY"
you restoration guys just amaze me....... Kudo's to you all.....

I change a gasket - I think I'm doing well..........

Keep up the good work!!

Z

dherr2 Avatar
dherr2 David Herr
Adamstown, MD, USA   USA
1972 Triumph Spitfire MkIV "Rat Rod"
Thanks, but while we all look at the pile of parts in our garages and see the "potential", you will be out enjoying your car this weekend!


In reply to # 1525888 by TheZster you restoration guys just amaze me....... Kudo's to you all.....

I change a gasket - I think I'm doing well..........

Keep up the good work!!

Z

TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
1978 Triumph 1500 "BLK-BRY"
In reply to # 1525894 by dherr2 Thanks, but while we all look at the pile of parts in our garages and see the "potential", you will be out enjoying your car this weekend!


In reply to # 1525888 by TheZster you restoration guys just amaze me....... Kudo's to you all.....

I change a gasket - I think I'm doing well..........

Keep up the good work!!

Z

OmiGod.... I'm still laughing..... and, unfortunately, you're right......

Took Blk-Bry for a long drive today around the suburbs (double checked speedo against phone GPS.. and I'm spot on).... Left rubber on numerous intersections - while taunting the vehicles next to me - Actually beat the corvette next to me in the 1/8th mile (all about reaction time... he couldn't believe I was going to try it.... LOL)... By the time I hit 5500 rpm in first - he was "GONE"....

I still have nothing but the greatest respect for ya'll..... I'm so very lucky... my Christmas purchase for my daughter has turned out to be solid/strong/and rust free..... We're having a ball......

Z

chrisrintz Avatar
chrisrintz Gold Member Christopher Rintz
Winnetka, IL, USA   USA
I am preparing to finally mount the body back on the frame, and can’t seem to find a definitive layout for where the hard aluminum and rubber spacers go. The only piece the various diagrams agree on, is that the holes on the frame for seat belts take the rubber one. Does anyone possess a clear diagram that locates the various pieces. The package I received from TRF included 8 aluminum spacers and 6 rubber oneseye popping smiley. The pointed me on the right track, I thought, until i found other diagrams that seem to contradict those. I wish I would have paid closer attention 5 years ago when the body came off, but I find myself saying that just about every step along the way!!!!

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TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
1978 Triumph 1500 "BLK-BRY"
In reply to # 1525967 by chrisrintz I am preparing to finally mount the body back on the frame, and can’t seem to find a definitive layout for where the hard aluminum and rubber spacers go. The only piece the various diagrams agree on, is that the holes on the frame for seat belts take the rubber one. Does anyone possess a clear diagram that locates the various pieces. The package I received from TRF included 8 aluminum spacers and 6 rubber oneseye popping smiley. The pointed me on the right track, I thought, until i found other diagrams that seem to contradict those. I wish I would have paid closer attention 5 years ago when the body came off, but I find myself saying that just about every step along the way!!!!

I'm so sorry- but what is that saying? "necessity is the mother of invention"....

You'll make it work.... Hopefully with "factory type input" from fellow restorers... (Absolute Guru's in my estimation"winking smiley.... But input not withstanding.... I got the faith you'll do a great job. Putting such a puzzle together is as much about creativity as it is "what the factory did".... (We've already established they were a bunch of farmers building cars in between milking the cows... right?)


Phew.... long day... and a touch "off"?....
Z

chrisrintz Avatar
chrisrintz Gold Member Christopher Rintz
Winnetka, IL, USA   USA
Ha! Too true... To be honest, I would use rubber everywhere but I figured there must be some science to those aluminum pieces. Just looking at the welds on my frame, I would hardly accuse the orignal assemblers of being highly skilled craftsmen...or mine was built on a Friday afternoon!

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TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
1978 Triumph 1500 "BLK-BRY"
In reply to # 1525979 by chrisrintz Ha! Too true... To be honest, I would use rubber everywhere but I figured there must be some science to those aluminum pieces. Just looking at the welds on my frame, I would hardly accuse the orignal assemblers of being highly skilled craftsmen...or mine was built on a Friday afternoon!

Don't laugh to loud..... learned long, long ago..... Original is not necessarily proper.... you've taken on a project that requires in depth knowledge/research...... out of the box thinking....creativity... and such....

You know what the end result will be (or what you want it to be)... To some extent... circumvent "factory" and make it work - pretty... strong.... and (to avoid being labeled a DPO - replaceable...

Z

Roy Avatar
Roy roy o
Marietta, GA, USA   USA
How about we just leave out all the spacers - make the body & frame one piece & save weight also !

TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
1978 Triumph 1500 "BLK-BRY"
Your car... works for me....

Might eliminate a squeak or two in the finished product.... (daughter name our car "rattles" until I took care of most of those issues..)

Z

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
Christopher, Your car has the extensions on the rear of the frame and that adds a couple. I think 12 is enough for the later model. On the GT6's I resonantly took apart, they had a variation of the solid one. One was under the tank area and front fire wall, the other was front firewall and the other on the shelf behind the seats. So things can move around from the factory, as these were cars that sat in barns for years and rusted away.
It may be best to set the body on with the doors in place and by tightening up the bolts, see where the gap on the back of the doors is going.
If closing up at the top when tightening down the shelf bolts with rubber washer, then a solid one would give you the right gap with no closing.
I've already said earlier where most of the ones I've done have the placement, but all were earlier cars and the one I am working on now came in in truck load of boxes and the frame up against the wall and it has the extension welded in place. Might be a bit of a shuffle but not mind
blowing..
All in the fun.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

chrisrintz Avatar
chrisrintz Gold Member Christopher Rintz
Winnetka, IL, USA   USA
Thanks Wayne...seems to be consensus on the hard spacers at the rear shelf is the ticket. Good point about the door gap - I can see how the gaps would change if there was too much give at this point. There isn’t much rigidity in the main body and it wouldn’t take much torque to tweak the whole assembly. The hard spacers suddenly make much more sense! Right now I have the doors off, with a stiffener welded across the openings, but I will keep an eye on the gaps when I get around to reinstalling the doors. Never would have occurred to me...much appreciated!

Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
Aluminum does dampen but further the aluminum spacers are like big crush washers.

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