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Hoping to test drive a 1980 w/OD next Saturday...

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TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
1978 Triumph 1500 "BLK-BRY"
$7K?????? Little steep..... (unfortunately.... )

Z

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Manana Avatar
Manana Steve Wten
Thornhill, ON, Canada   CAN
7 grand may be steep to some, but that depends; you really haven't mentioned rust?

If there is no rust on the car, I don't think I'd be disappointed. Body coloured frame sounds original, not covered with tar is great. What's under the dirt? or on top as the case may be. Take a wet rag and have a look.

I could have to eat these words, but I'd agree that the O/D is quite simple and it could very well be an easy wiring issue, lock-out switch, or even the selection switch.

U-joint! 20 bucks and a fun afternoon...... okay.... 20 bucks and some quality time with your new British Classic.

Rust is everything; check out the floor repair/replacement work some crazy bastards on this forum are doing. (I mean "crazy bastards" in the most flattering way of course - just trying to be funny - I totally respect the work you guys are doing - very impressive)

I'd have a close look under the carpets, under the headlight buckets, trunk floor, and around the control arms where the connect to the tub, both inside and outside. Others will know some even better indicators, but that should make it pretty obvious if work was required on the rockers.

If it looks good, make him an offer, can't hurt.

PS: After doing the conversion, 7 grand US comes to about 9000 Canadian, so it may be a touch high, but for me a solid Spit could be worth it.



Steve
http://stevew10.wix.com/spit16

Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
A non working O/D is a non working O/D. On a lower cost car I might take my chances, but I would not assume a quick fix for the money being asked.

Much the same with the UJ, you might expect that on a car with an AS IS price tag.

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Manana Avatar
Manana Steve Wten
Thornhill, ON, Canada   CAN
Fair enough, but as I say, make him an offer.

From my understanding, not everyone loves these little beauties like we do and it can take a very long time to sell; given the issues, that one could turn away most buyers and he may be flexible on price, if not today, then maybe tomorrow.

And even if you have to throw a few bucks at it I still think it'd be decent if there's little rust. (but I would still wager the issues are minor; of course it's not my money your spending)

Just this man's opinion.



Steve
http://stevew10.wix.com/spit16

TheFlash300 Avatar
TheFlash300 Dave Gutknecht
Rochester Hills, MI, USA   USA
1979 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Lil Spit"
I think the flags are the seller saying everything is fine vs what it actually is. I would be inclined to believe 7k is a bit high price for an '80. I bought my '79 Spit 2 summers ago on the West side of Michigan for 5k with 93k miles and an engine rebuild within the past year. Body in great shape, engine did not immediately fire (carb and timing adjustment) and also had the U-joint clacking, but no OD. OD is worth ~1k, as many hear wish they had it and there is work to change it over.
You will always fine new parts to spend money on to refresh, improve, upgrade, so it is critical that you are happy with what you pay for the car as is. And it is always better to have the car as a driver as you add those new parts.

In reply to # 1518431 by SevenAmerica Asking $6,995. Yeah I figured it might be an easy fix, but then again... Remember I've never had an OD Spitfire, and I'm not in the market for a project :-) He insisted when I cam back that he drive the car and it worked... He didn't, however, offer to take me out in the car himself and prove that it worked. He's got my number, and said he'd have those things checked and get back in touch... I kinda think he wants my Miata, which is sort of handy after all...

SevenAmerica Avatar
SevenAmerica John Donohoe
Williamston, MI, USA   USA
Thanks for the continued input everyone...

Yes, everything but the outside bodywork was grimy, but did look fairly clean. There was a fair bit of surface rust in the driver footwell, the drain plug was missing and the edges of that drain hole were starting to crumble out, so the 'surface rust' is significant. From the underside though, that floor was still in original white paint, with grime, and I could find no other soft spots. That's the only bit of rust I saw.

I have a slight concern about the rockers, again, while the car was on the lift, I could see 'blotches' through the white paint -- as if it had been a very thin coat of paint -- or maybe a lotto the original pain polished off? Unfortunately, someone had taken black spray paint, and without bother to mask anything, spray the top faces of front upper A arms, springs, inside front wheel wells, and the outer ends of the scuttle shelf, including the master cylinder brackets, and over around the battery tray. The battery tray rain tube itself was blocked from below, with the usual mud wasp dried mud.

A few other things form under the car -- there is obvious leakage from the diff pinion seal, the whole underside of the OD unit was dripping with oil (the unit itself was pretty clean and the oil was clean and golden, I forgot to give it the sniff test. Something that struck me was that the OD unit seems to have sort of flat face that faces bottom, but that flat face seemed to be 10-15 degrees rotated (along driveline) from parallel to floor. Is that how it should look?

Anyhow, yeah, I would not have driven almost 2 hours one way in the Miata to even look at the carafe the seller had told me the OD wasn't working and that the axle (or something) was clunking. He did tell me that the rear brakes, though functional, were making some noises that needed to be addressed. But that I could take care of easily, and in reality, though they may not have been helping much to top the car, they didn't seem to be making any noises to me!

I am definitely on the fence about the car. Hopefully the OD turns out to be an easy fix for him, and the cluck gets sorted -- as I think about it, it almost seems like something may have been rubbing on the driveshaft or an axle shaft. We didn't put it on the lift after the drive though, so I couldn't diagnose that.

I'll keep y'all posted. In the meantime, maybe I can sell my Miata and go in with a cash offer!

Cheers!

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
John, You are being asked to pay top dollar for a Spitfire with issues.
As stated, you are not looking for a project cat. My concern is the rust that has been concealed under spray paint. If and when you go back,, push with your thumb on the areas under the door and right behind the door, lower side. Look for any sandpaper scratches near the lower seam, that's where the bondo is hard to get smooth.
I would say use a ice pick, but then when it went through, you might have to fight your way out of there.
Go look at a couple more, and even if they have rust, you will have a better idea were it is prone to be.
Good luck.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

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skyking1231 Avatar
skyking1231 Silver Member Frank Strobel
Mt. Sinai, NY, USA   USA
1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Lil' Rose"
Bring a ‘weak’ refrigerator magnet. One that will only stick to clean metal.

billspit Bill Kea
Moore, Spartanburg, SC, USA   USA
I am a cheap old bastard and for $6,995 I would want that car to be immaculate and working properly.

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Manana Avatar
Manana Steve Wten
Thornhill, ON, Canada   CAN
John that's some more good info there.

I'd agree with the guys; at that price point, you'd expect better.

If I had to replace my Spit, most of the mechanical stuff wouldn't bug me, but I like doing that. It's the rust I wouldn't want to deal with.

Remember, the worst thing he can say is "no", well maybe with some colourful expletives thrown in.

Best of luck however you go.



Steve
http://stevew10.wix.com/spit16

SevenAmerica Avatar
SevenAmerica John Donohoe
Williamston, MI, USA   USA
Hey friends, the seller has been in contact again, he hasn't sorted or even diagnosed any of the issues I had mentioned...

In doing some further reading about the OD however, I see that it's slow to engage when cold... It was below freezing the day I drove the car, so I wonder what the chances are that the OD actually does work, but was simply not warmed up?

I think I may have to make a low ball offer and see what happens :-) You'll hear the result here first!

Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
I used to have VERY slow O/D engagement, taking 30 secounds or more, from a cold start in cold weather.

I later replaced the 80w-90 gear oil with a modern lower viscosity MTL and haven't looked back.

Mark Jones Avatar
Close to Sarnia, ON, Canada   CAN
1995 MG MGF "Barney"
1996 Land Rover Discovery
I have experienced the OD in my Spitfire engaging slowly when cold, but I'm talking an additional second or two, not 30. And I use 75W90 gear oil in my Spitfire's OD.

What was the sellers reason for contacting you?





MOWOG Garage serving the needs of all Post Abingdon MG owners in Lambton Co. since 2011.

SevenAmerica Avatar
SevenAmerica John Donohoe
Williamston, MI, USA   USA
I suspect he contacted me because he sees my Miata is still for sale, and because he's not having any luck selling his Spit!

skyking1231 Avatar
skyking1231 Silver Member Frank Strobel
Mt. Sinai, NY, USA   USA
1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Lil' Rose"
one quick thing to check on the OD.....with the engine off, ign on...and in 3rd or 4th....see if you can hear the itty bitty click from the OD solenoid kick on....it is not going to sound like much...so you may need to stick your head underneath the car...or maybe up again tunnel drivers side... if you hear it...then you know it isn't an elec problem. (and probably bad switch or connections..or wiring.) Maybe there is a way to check with a meter...??



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-03-24 06:25 AM by skyking1231.

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