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Ceramic coating headers

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SpiTazz72 Avatar
SpiTazz72 Bryan H
Magnolia, TX, USA   USA
I purchased a set of 4-2-1 headers from BPNW and will test fit them soon. I plan on getting them ceramic powder coated locally an have a few questions.

Is there any need to get the collector tube after the header coated as well? I figure that's downstream enough to keep any heat out of the engine compartment.

Is there any benefit to getting the inside of the tubes coated?

I did a search and found some answers but not all. These will be installed with a pair of existing SU HS-2 carbs and I'm also considering fabricating a heat shield between the carbs and intake manifold.

Any input/advice is appreciated.
Thanks!

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Andy-Sherry Avatar
Andy-Sherry Gold Member Andy Martin
Portland, OR, USA   USA
I wouldnt worry about collector tube but get inside done as well



Andy&Sherry
1974 Spit 1500 Carmine Red
1977 Spit 1500 Pink Panther Pink

Always learning something

jimgt6 Jim E
Seekonk, MA, USA   USA
Use Jet-Hot. I had them do my GT6 cast iron manifold 9 years ago and still looks great. Ask them about the collector tube.

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SpiTazz72 Avatar
SpiTazz72 Bryan H
Magnolia, TX, USA   USA
Thanks. I just found a place close by that ceramic coats quite a bit of racing/performance and industrial parts. I don't think it's specifically Jet-Hot but the products they use are for exhaust, turbo, intakes, bearing, pistons, heads etc. I did learn there is a difference between high temp/performance coatings and that used on lawn furniture. I'll get the inside done but pass on the collector.

Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
In reply to # 1512692 by SpiTazz72 I did learn there is a difference between high temp/performance coatings and that used on lawn furniture.

.....heh.....

SpiTazz72 Avatar
SpiTazz72 Bryan H
Magnolia, TX, USA   USA
In doing some more searches I've found many discussion about people using POR-15 High Temp paint on their headers and being very pleased with the results. Yet even though the paint will hold up to temps of 1200 to 1400 degrees and resist fading, color changes or chipping I find no mention of reducing the radiated heat from the header and lower engine bay temps. My take is the headers will look good but still be hot.

Again with the two SU's being very close to the exhaust I'll be looking for the benefits from the ceramic.

Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
A tea tray cures all.


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jhdubois Jeremy DuBois
Hudson, MA, USA   USA
I've used Swain Tech's White Lightning coating on my exhausts several times. Not 'pretty' like jet-hot, but it is much thicker than most of the 'ceramic' coatings I see, it works great at reducing heat, and will never fail (you'd have to grind it off to get rid of it).

GeorgeOhr Nonya Business
Yes, confused, USA   USA
In reply to # 1512732 by jhdubois I've used Swain Tech's White Lightning coating on my exhausts several times. Not 'pretty' like jet-hot, but it is much thicker than most of the 'ceramic' coatings I see, it works great at reducing heat, and will never fail (you'd have to grind it off to get rid of it).


I see companies throw around the word "ceramic" a lot but I doubt that whatever they are doing involves vitrified clay. The white stuff mentioned comes about as close in description as something that uses some type of clay body but I still find it hard to believe it's actually ceramic in the true definition. Bonding and COE is a HUGE problem in ceramics with other materials and it's mentioned to some amount, but I've never seen any clay body that can take that much expansion or thermal shock and not crack much less with a substructure inside of it. ( I have some experience in that area.)

The thing that gets me is while a thicker "anything" will help insulate against heat, something being "ceramic" doesn't mean it has heat insulating properties or will run cooler. When a fired clay body is held at ANY temperature, it will try to assume that same temp. It may take some time depending on the ware's thickness but rest assured, it's going to temp.

Anyone have Corning Ware? Try taking it out of the oven without gloves.

I can't see .015 really making a big difference unless some type of Kao wool coating is being applied but that's glass, not ceramic. I would really like to know what it is they are using and/or doing.

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carChips Avatar
carChips Victor Harnish
Kelowna, BC, Canada   CAN
1933 MG Magnette
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Chip"
1989 GMC Sierra 1500 "Bush Truck"
Bryan, get your collector coated too, at least on the outside. This will reduce the heat on trans and cockpit.

Of course you'll have to grind some off to get it all to fit together nicely.



'S all for now
Vic

BigChill Avatar
BigChill Silver Member Big Chill
Norwood, MA, USA   USA
scardini1 Avatar
scardini1 Gold Member Jim Moscardini
Great Mills, MD, USA   USA
1968 Triumph GT6 "Rocinante"
2003 Jaguar XKR "Kitty"
In reply to # 1512725 by Doug in Vegas A tea tray cures all.


I gotta tell ya, Doug, .... That's one of the most creative (if not the most beautiful - lol) heat shield solutions I've ever seen. Friggin' brilliant! Friggin' hysterical. spinning smiley sticking its tongue out

GeorgeOhr Nonya Business
Yes, confused, USA   USA

Works great but rots stuff out quicker due to increased internal temps. The hotter steel and cast iron gets, the quicker it oxidizes.

clshore Carter Shore
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
In reply to # 1512804 by GeorgeOhr
Works great but rots stuff out quicker due to increased internal temps. The hotter steel and cast iron gets, the quicker it oxidizes.

No problem, just have the parts coated inside and out before wrapping them winking smiley

Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
In reply to # 1512797 by scardini1 I gotta tell ya, Doug, .... That's one of the most creative (if not the most beautiful - lol) heat shield solutions I've ever seen. Friggin' brilliant! Friggin' hysterical. spinning smiley sticking its tongue out

Sure is thinking outside the box.

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