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Don't light a match around this engine.... Phew!!

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TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
Alright... let's the the "Weber Conversion Naysayer" thread die a quiet death.... It's gotten off topic and turned into a Weber V everything else type of discussion.... But - pertinent input was truly appreciated....


I did rebuild the Weber.... rebuild kit came from China (Gee, what a surprise)... and the rebuild went great - more or less... some rebuild parts don't match up exactly with original (choke shaft (whatever it's called was "far from smooth" so used original that looked great) ..... so I had to figure out what I wanted to accomplish...

Put it back on Blk-Bry today and fired it up... OmiGod.... stand back.... Fuel filled the carb/throats/intake - to the point of the starter refusing to turn over due to liquid in the cylinders....

Problem - or so I think.... Original build had a float needle of polished brass - which fit into the original float needle surround...... Rebuild float needle had a rubber tip needle.... (which I personally prefer)..... BUT - the needle "keeper" (plastic clip to go over the float tang) wouldn't fit - and there was no alternative in the kit - meaning the new float needle just "floated" - with no tang pressure to pull it down out of the throat of the needle surround..... (Make Sense?)..... I ended up installing the new rebuild surround.... but using the original needle..... Seems it was a big mistake...

Tried to fire her up today - and gas would not stop flowing from the bowl into the throats (through the bowl breather area)....

I've got to guess the two different needles/surrounds - do not match at all..... So it's back to either "putting original surround and needle (both in good condition)" back in.... or.... installing new rubber tipped needle and new surround in - with no means to pull it down in the event it might need to.... (I'm guessing gravity and fuel pressure will alleviate that potential issue)....

Regardless... don't light a match or cigarette anywhere near my engine - till I figure it out...

Yes - I know ----- first question - what is fuel pressure? I don't know... running stock pump to carb ----- and it wasn't an issue prior to rebuild....

I was very careful to set float height --- 35 mm closed (without pressing on spring loaded ball) - and 52mm wide open (which doesn't make sense as bowl depth is only 45mm)

Thoughts?

Z



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-01 06:23 PM by TheZster.

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Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
Notice how fast it went south on the ZS?

TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
true true.....

I don't want to be accused of pushing a thread after it is answered... but when it goes south... whatcha gonna do?

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Falkon Avatar
Falkon Al Martin
Appleton, WI, USA   USA
I'm glad ,other than cleaning, I've never tried to adjust any of my carburetors on my 3 Spitfires over the years.
Rebuilt the engine on one, but they just kept on running carb. wise. Over 100,000 miles total on those cars.

TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
In reply to # 1510893 by Falkon I'm glad ,other than cleaning, I've never tried to adjust any of my carburetors on my 3 Spitfires over the years.
Rebuilt the engine on one, but they just kept on running carb. wise. Over 100,000 miles total on those cars.

Some of us are lucky... some of us are not.... I'm just trying to clean up all potential issues for my daughter's car.... get her running solid and safe.... then I'll start "tweaking" (as in full rebuild.. LOL)...

Z

Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
Main thing it needs to do is start when cold, purr at idle and go from a light without stalling under load.

Oh,...and stop.

Stopping well encourages more speed.

TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
If I could get her to do all that... I would be driving around the St. Louis "Loop" right now, picking up college girls in my cute little Spitfire.....

Hmmmph... are we quickly getting off thread again? Maybe I should have specifically asked for advice...... re: my rebuild choices.....

anybody encounter the same "Stuff" that I'm encountering? I've never seen that quantity of gas roll out of a float bowl into a carb ..... and immediately put out my cigarette......

I am recognizing that the vast majority of info on this site is "personal experience" - as we're all modifying as we go..... So the chances of someone encountering the same issues could be slim.... or it could be an ongoing problem with our sweeties....

z

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Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
I suppose you could do what we did prior to the internet and buy a manual.

It's not as much fun though.

TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
I've got the manual.... but it doesn't cover issues related to mis-matched Chinese parts..... LOL

Lord knows - I don't start a thread unless I've exhausted everything I can research.... You try to find information on Chinese rebuilds v original aftermarket parts..... this forum is where personal experiences count more than technical bulletins (I've found 3 different float settings from three different "experts".... Pfffffttttttttt....

Long story short.... My bowl is flooding - big time... my check valve is/was a mismatch between "Redline factory" (who knows what they spec'd) and the Chinese version of a rebuild kit.... I truly can't see/feel any big differences.... but my swimming pool in my carb might suggest otherwise....

Just hoping someone else ran into a similar problem and resolved it....


Z

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Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
You can confirm it's leaking by gravity feeding fuel.

A common cause of flooding is a missing spacer/gasket under the float bowl gasket. This will throw off your float height and can even leak around the valve. I've seen these in both aluminum and brass. They resemble a thick washer..

TheZster Avatar
TheZster Steven Z
SAINT LOUIS, MO, USA   USA
I think you hit it on the head.... I'll try it later this morning.... Thx..

Z

Dann362TR Avatar
Dann362TR Rien Corzilius
Zwanenburg, Noord Holland, Netherlands   NLD
1968 Triumph TR250 "TR255"
For the fuel pressure you actually do need a Mapassy Filter King.
This must be used when webers are mounted.
The factory adjustment is correct.
Rien

Harfend Avatar
Harfend Dean Schwaller
New Berlin, WI, USA   USA
If you don't have one, you NEED a fuel pressure regulator to keep a Weber from flooding! An unregulated mechanical FP will produce enough pressure to make a Weber flood.

Good luck,
HARFEND

clshore Carter Shore
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
In reply to # 1510978 by Harfend If you don't have one, you NEED a fuel pressure regulator to keep a Weber from flooding! An unregulated mechanical FP will produce enough pressure to make a Weber flood.

Good luck,
HARFEND

There's some misinformation cropping up, so let's get this straight right now:

There are MILLIONS of Weber DGV equipped cars, Pinto, Vega, and others, Holley licensed the rights to it.
I can ASSURE you that NONE of them have a Malpassi fuel pressure regulator, or ANY external regulator.

Most mechanical fuel pumps HAVE built in fuel pressure regulation.
The KEY is to fit a pump that has the PRESSURE you need for your carb.
The DGV should have no more than 3.5 psi.
Which is about the same as for the stock Spitfire SU, or ZS carbs.

Unfortunately, just about any old fuel pump will FIT
Only those delivering 3.5 psi will WORK

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