Okay, thanks again for calling me out on this Bruce. I managed to find an early version of my breakdown.

Given my goals of reliability and better performance, Build Recommendations were…
Target 90-95 HP at the flywheel
Cam - TSI275-4 (3000-6000 RPM) or slightly milder "B" cam (2800-5500)
SU HS4 Eurospec carbs with manifold, linkages, airbox
Compression increase
Minor Displacement increase
Good Engine Rebuild

Some details…
Teardown and Evaluation $350 - Magnaflux and pressure tested - very important part of the process and he will select the best parts I have (I took him multiple engines from which to choose)
Block - Bored out to 18 thou until pistons arrive and then honed for perfect fit
Connecting Rods - Inspected, corrected and balanced
Line honed/bored Mains (Great description of line honing by Hap here #4) http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,1652357
Main Oil supply - Drilled out
Crank - Inspected, polished or ground, and balanced
Flywheel - Resurfaced and Balanced
Head - Intake multi-angle grind - Cleaned up ports – New plugs for the air pump holes

Parts….
200 New Flat-Top Pistons, Rings, and Pins
30 Tri-metal Bearings
80 New oil pump
25 New seals and gaskets
11 New Thrust Washers (pinned, but I'm still not sure about pinning)
100 Timing Chain - $50 for stock, $100 for dual row
200 Cam and Hardened Lifters
80 All New Valves (SS exhaust therefore no new seats required, 1500 already has hardened seats)
20 New Valve Guides
25 New Valve Springs
10 New Valve Seals
35 Rocker Shaft - Stock $35 or hardened $70
Rockers - if required $10 a piece (but I think I should have enough to find some good ones)
Hardware - A few extra bucks to use ARP (I think it may be good for the Rods anyway?)

So these basic parts came in just over 800 bucks; he figured all in with labour should be between $3000 and $3500.

Other things I considered….
New clutch - mine's not too old, but at the right price….
Oil cooler and hardware - with thermostatically controlled flow - not required
New water pump
Electric Fuel pump and regulator - seems no one is recommending this - No
Rad - I think the ones I have are good but would like to go aluminum with thermostatically controlled electric fans
Electric cooling fans
Old style thermostat cover
Thermo-switch to be tapped into thermostat cover (the only way I’d do it)

Adding in the dual SUs, manifold, and bits, plus rebuilding and some of the “other things I considered” plus 2 days of driving and about $250 in gas to get there and back obviously put my costs well above US$4500, plus with our crappy dollar I think I’d have been between 6-7000 bucks Canadian to get 90HP.

I think my bottom line remains the same; if you just want a basic build that $3300 is not terrible, but I’d still go to Ted first. And of course Hap sounds like a great plan too.

After another of my way-too-long responses I bet you regret asking me now eh!

EDIT: paragraph order change for clarity

---

Steve
http://stevew10.wix.com/spit16



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-12-29 06:22 PM by Manana.

The engine has been posted for a wile he may come down.

I gave him a call about a year and a half ago asking for a price to rebuild my cylinder head and he was looking for $1100.
Needless to say I went elsewhere.

There are other rebuilt motors posted on EBay for less money but not as close to you

I agree with the other guys, send your motor out and have it rebuilt.
It's winter in Vermont you won't need it back until April and you can save some money



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-12-29 04:40 PM by Pats54.

Now "THAT" is a breakdown..... an informed buyer who knows exactly what he wants and works with his local vendor to get it....

I would bet my Spit against $20 that the e-bay motor doesn't have:

Oil supply drilled out (a necessity in my opinion)....
Crank balanced
flywheel balanced and trued
crank balanced
3 angle valve grind
rods balanced ( I assume new pistons/rod assembly was balanced as well)
intake/exhaust port work of any type
50% of the new parts mentioned.... (pistons, valves, timing chain, etc.)


Good job Steve.....

Is it cost effective? He got what he wanted at what he considered a reasonable price - and has a relationship with the builder.... and that type of relationship is priceless..... meaning the vendor will be around to stand by his work. Could it be done cheaper - certainly.... but only by doing the assembly portion yourself.... I enjoy putting together engines - so save a bundle on labor.... not everyone has the time nor inclination to do so.... do your research - you can find a reputable machine shop that you can trust.... and leave the hard stuff (use your own definition of hard stuff) to them.... to me; sight unseen off of e-bay is just asking for trouble.....

Z (steve also... LOL)

In the UK, Canley's will rebuild a 1500 for for less than £600 ($810). That's a 'short' engine, headless, so add that but you could almost afford to ship to the US and hBve change.

Rip-off.
John

Sounds like: Get off google - and visit some machine shops....... I'll bet your local triumph club has some superb references for you. The internet only goes so far......

Z

Well I have my eyes on a long block from a 75-79 midget that isnt seized. I want to turn into a street performance engine for my 76 Spit. Where do i start?

Depending on your abilities...... Take it apart - totally..... and take the block and head to your friendly "competent" machine shop for evaluation.... Block and head have to be buildable.... (no cracks/holes/etc).... then you decide what you want...... No point in deciding what you want until you know if the core can be rebuilt properly....

Z

Funny I was thinking to ask what a machine shop might charge in the UK.

Back in day, I used to use Baldyne Engineering in Kent, (it seems they are still in business http://baldyneengineering.co.uk/about-us/3109468) of course it is impossible to compare prices to another coutries of almost 40 years ago. But....

Why are you limiting your search to Midget engines? I might want to include 1300's in my search also.

If I was going to rebuild it, I would not sneer at taking even a seized engine 'off someones hands'.

Or do you mean you have found this engine, and want to know how to proceed?

See my post #8.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-12-29 05:21 PM by Tonyfixit.

Just thinking?? I'm guessing your current motor is "seized".... Doesn't necessarily mean it isn't rebuildable..... Could be as easily rectified as machining for new bearings on crank/cam/etc..... Block cracks/holes are your major concern..... other than that - a machine shop can do wonders....

Z

I want a 90hp 1500 engine, i can get a long block for a decent price.

Nope current engine is fine actually, besides oil leak behind timing chain cover. I want to up grade to street performance.

As stated, dismantle the engine (if you can) and get it assessed at a trusted M/C shop.

If the engine is in rebuildable condition, I think the 'What to do' should be the subject of another thread.

Will do thanks

Then why buy another? Your stock engine - with clean up and mods can easily give you the 90HP threshold..... I just bought my daughter a 78 relatively stock..... typical oil leaks, etc.... I want her to have a 'bulletproof' engine when we're done..... Based on my experience (owned a 80 spit in 80 and used to raced big blocks in boats) - I know, without a doubt, that I can get a reliable 90HP out of the current motor..... without getting radical....

We had a couple of sayings in the boat racing community: speed costs money - how fast do you want to go? and: gain power - lose reliability...... but a spit 1500 with 90 bhp...... Pfffffttttttt.... easy... If I'm not mistaken, the stock European model had almost that much..... the US model crashed and burned due to federal emissions and safety standards (which as a classic car - most states waive those requirements)

Maybe I'm speaking out of turn..... but I think not... Some of the more experienced (almost anyone) contributors may shoot me down quickly..... LOL

Z