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#1
  This topic is about my 1980 Triumph Spitfire 1500
GarrettWendt Avatar
GarrettWendt Garrett Wendt
Victor, NY, USA   USA
I bought my first LBC in July 2015.

It had a cracked manifold but did run and no rust I could see.

I decided to replace with headers...which led to new dual exhaust...then trouble getting it to run again after putting ZS Carb back on...never did get it dialed in...suspected a vacuum leak at the air intake manifold, but still not totally convinced it was true...

Then somehow...I found myself pursuing a 4 Mikuni conversion from scratch...

Did I mention before this car the only mechanics work I have done in 44 years was changing brakes twice, oil a few times...windshield wipers...maybe? eye rolling smiley

So thanks to all your help on this forum...as of yesterday I have everything pieced together, just need to reconnect the headers to the rest of the exhaust as I had them ceramic coated this past month before final assembly.

I NEED YOU ALL AGAIN! confused smiley

I am nervous to actually turn the key and want to make sure all is well before I do.

From much that I have read on the forum, I am planning the following:

  1. Top up the coolant
  2. Remove valve cover and pour 1 quart of oil over everything
  3. Adjust Fuel Pressure Regulator to almost lowest setting (as Mikunis are gravity fed, so setting to near 1 psi)
  4. Turn the key

These are really questions more than they are statements. lol.

Any last advice?

If nothing else, I am proud of the art project I made for show-n-tell. smiling bouncing smiley

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Attachments:
Assembly 7.JPG    75.3 KB
Assembly 7.JPG

Assembly 8.JPG    54.3 KB
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Assembly 9.JPG    78.5 KB
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GarrettWendt Avatar
GarrettWendt Garrett Wendt
Victor, NY, USA   USA
Oh, yeah, for fun...here is a pic of how it looked on the lot.


Attachments:
l.JPG    98.6 KB
l.JPG

SpiTazz72 Avatar
SpiTazz72 Bryan H
Magnolia, TX, USA   USA
Looks great Garrett. If you have an electric fuel pump I'd let it build pressure and do a leak check on all the fuel lines and carbs before starting. Trust me that you wouldn't be the first one to find a loose clamp/connection after a new installation.

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GarrettWendt Avatar
GarrettWendt Garrett Wendt
Victor, NY, USA   USA
Thank you Bryan,

And thanks for that advice...unfortunately I have the mechanical FP. I have thought about changing that too IF there is any trouble with crankcase pressure...adding the oil catch and vent over there...

I am hoping I will not have that issue.

Manana Avatar
Manana Steve Wten
Thornhill, ON, Canada   CAN
I think most people would recommend pulling the dizzy and running the oil pump with a drill and screwdriver. I've not done it on the Spit so someone can jump in with any specifics.

This video should cover the idea....



Good luck with it, sure does look nice.

Edit: proper link installed



Steve
http://stevew10.wix.com/spit16



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-11-17 09:06 AM by Manana.

SpiTazz72 Avatar
SpiTazz72 Bryan H
Magnolia, TX, USA   USA
If the crankcase and filter are full with new oil I'd be hesitant to add another full quart over the valve gear. It doesn't need that much and the lines fill up quickly once running.

I usually start it and let it run for a 30 seconds or so to make sure all the lights go out then shut it off. It's enough time to listen and get a quick evaluation of where it stands for idle speed and possibly initial mixture/choke settings. I've had many not start due on the first try and others start and go to 3000 rpm. Just be ready to turn the key off if it races away.

Also if there is starting problems I caution against extended cranking times. Make sure your battery is charged and don't overheat the starter. Let it rest and cool off if there's no joy at first.

Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
To prime with oil you need to remove the distributor, it's pedestal and then the distributor drive gear after carefully noteing the orientation of the slot. Then fit a reversing drill with a steel rod ground to a tip like a flat bladed screwdriver.

This is used to spin the pump shaft counter clockwise.

It can take a suprising amount of time for the pump to prime itself, fill a new oil filter and pressurise the oil system.
You will feel the resistance in the drill as pressure builds.

Some owners will just pull the spark plugs and spin the engine with the starter motor. But as the pump is driven at half engine speed, this could take a whole lot of cranking. More than would be wise in one continuous crank. (I have seen starters smoke up doing this)

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GarrettWendt Avatar
GarrettWendt Garrett Wendt
Victor, NY, USA   USA
All right. Thanks for all the advice guys.

I will let you know what happens... hot smiley



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-11-17 09:03 PM by GarrettWendt.

Melbourne, Victoria, Australia   AUS
Just curious how much does it owe you? As it looks great.

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GarrettWendt Avatar
GarrettWendt Garrett Wendt
Victor, NY, USA   USA
Oh man...I am afraid to answer that...

I thought I was going to save money not buying a kit for 2k...

- Headers and Exhaust from spitbits.com ....$900
- Jet-Hot did the Ceramic coating of headers for $250

- Carbs on eBay were about $325.
- Making the Manifolds was pretty cheap for the material...tubes and plates...~$40
- I cut them on a table saw...Then had local shop weld them up for $75.
- Then I put all those fancy AN hoses and fittings for the heater hose...not cheap...each fitting is $20 - $30. So maybe about $300 there...
- (4) Air filters...$85
- Aluminum & steel bar for Heat shield and brackets...~$25
- Holley Fuel Pressure Regulator, hose and fittings, and aluminum mounting bracket...~$85
- (4) Rubber boots that connect Carbs to Intake Manifolds...$65
- Intake Gasket...$10
- Choke Cable...$25
- Throttle Cable...$25

Did I miss anything...in reality, there would be more...all the little buy this screw or those bolts...but, not counting the Headers and Exhaust, look like this adds up to: $1,060.

So I guess I "saved" money? hahaha.

Will never recoup...but will enjoy what I've created...learned that lesson reading on this forum. :-)

carChips Avatar
carChips Victor Harnish
Kelowna, BC, Canada   CAN
1933 MG Magnette
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Chip"
1989 GMC Sierra 1500 "Bush Truck"
Garret, I like what you've done to the scuttle, nice an clean and shiny. Most guys just paint it flat black or not at all which just looks off.



'S all for now
Vic

time2triumph Avatar
time2triumph Norm W
Cache Valley, UT, USA   USA
In reply to # 1498607 by carChips Garret, I like what you've done to the scuttle, nice an clean and shiny. Most guys just paint it flat black or not at all which just looks off.

At the risk of sounding stupid. What is the scuttle?confused smiley

Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
Crank it without the plugs in and see if it spins without any binding, squeaks, rattles or thuds.

This will also send oil through the system.

Ideally, it will fire in the first quarter turn and start.

grubscrew Avatar
grubscrew grub screw
The suburbs of, Winfield, Maryland, USA   USA
In reply to # 1498611 by time2triumph
In reply to # 1498607 by carChips Garret, I like what you've done to the scuttle, nice an clean and shiny. Most guys just paint it flat black or not at all which just looks off.

At the risk of sounding stupid. What is the scuttle?confused smiley

The firewall shelf in rhe engine bay.



Dave
1970 Spitfire Mk3
FDU 78359L
34/11 (Jasmine yellow/Black interior)

1962 Triumph TR3B
TCF 575L
Signal Red/Red interior

GarrettWendt Avatar
GarrettWendt Garrett Wendt
Victor, NY, USA   USA
Thanks Vic! (And Dave for the answer! Ha!)

Yeah, this was before I painted it:


Attachments:
a Before2.JPG    68.3 KB
a Before2.JPG

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