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TR 4A , Left rear wheel will not rotate when Jacked up

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nicodiaz Roberto Diaz
Oceanside, CA, USA   USA
I would appreciate advise as to my problem of removing a rear wheel drum.
Today I tried pushing the car in the garage but it would not budge in neutral, engine not running; thought nothing of it and took it for a short drive and noticed nothing wrong.
Upon returning I touched this left rear wheel and it was warn, no others were. Jacked up rear end up andleft wheel would not rotate, the right rear wheel rotated fine. I tried removing the
wheel drum but It will not move, neither would the drum brake adjustment rotate either way. Any ideas what the problem could be, and how to loosen the drum?
Have had the car for 41 years and never had a problem, although it is not driven daily nor far. Thanks for any comments.

Robert
'66 Tr4a Irs
Oceanside, Ca.

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TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Did you let it cool thoroughly before trying to get it apart?

I would try disconnecting the brake line at the wheel cylinder, to be sure it hasn't gotten blocked somehow and is holding pressure on the cylinder. Sometimes the outside of the line can look OK, but the innermost layer breaks off and acts like a check valve to hold pressure in the cylinder.

The other thing that has worked for me is to just beat on the drum all around the outside. I was actually trying to break it, but instead it moved the stuck pistons (this was a Stag with dual acting cylinders in the rear) enough to free up the wheel and let me finish the drive home.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

Geo Hahn Avatar
Mt Lemmon, AZ, USA   USA
That happened to me on my TR3A - just cracking open the bleeder relieved the wheel cylinder and I was able to clamp off the soft line to the rears and drive home.

In the end, a rebuild (or replacement if you prefer) of the offending wheel cylinder took care of it.

I think they usually fail with a leak but that one seized-up on me.

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nicodiaz Roberto Diaz
Oceanside, CA, USA   USA
Thanks folks,

I disconnected the brake oil line at the wheel ; if something was relieved besides the brake oil reservoir, it was not noticeable. As Randall suggested I am hammering horizontally at the drum and it has begun to slide out.
The wheel still will not rotate, but it seems that banging away will produce results. Yes, the hydraulic brake cylinder may be the culprit, will soon know! Appreciate the comments.
Robert

nicodiaz Roberto Diaz
Oceanside, CA, USA   USA
Finally succeeded removing brake drum. Drum and brakes look good although the drums slips back on somewhat tight. Brake adjustment is in retracted position.
Cannot tell what the hydraulic cylinder extended position is. I assume it must extend into the hand brake actuator slot; if so, it appears retracted.
But have not identified what was the original problem. Can the hydraulic brake be safely actuated w/o the drum on? Any additional advise would be appreciated.

Robert

malbaby Avatar
malbaby malcolm baker
kyabram, Australia   AUS
Together with the above advice....have the drum surface machined in case it is not perfectly round.

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
If you can move the drum on/off, the problem has gone away (for the moment). Since it wasn't hydraulic pressure, and it worked before (?), it almost has to be that the cylinder was hung up. Since they are somewhat troublesome anyway (note: Steel piston running in aluminum housing with corrosive fluid is probably not the best design.), I would go ahead and remove the cylinder for inspection and rebuilding.

Operating the cylinder without the drum in place is risky. It can be done if you are careful, but it's easy to over-extend the piston and blow fluid out. And if the bore is in bad shape (which it likely is), just moving the piston out farther than it normally moves may induce a leak that won't show up until it's all back together and you apply the brakes the next time. Any leak will ruin the shoes (they can not be effectively cleaned), and shoes are a lot more expensive than a rebuild kit.

But, double-check the bore size before ordering a rebuild kit, as it's possible that someone has changed them. My book says a 4A should have .70" cylinders, but early TR4 had .75 (and 5/8" was used on some TR3)

Or just replace the cylinder if that is your preference.

Might also be a good time to consider moving to DOT 5. (Ok, ok, I'm not trying to reopen the fluif wars, just saying it's an option.) While it certainly has some disadvantages; one of the things I really like is that it does (in my experience) greatly reduce this sort of hassle.
See http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm for more information. (And I've posted the two referenced articles at https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffdnhWS19scjlNUU0 )



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

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nicodiaz Roberto Diaz
Oceanside, CA, USA   USA
Randall,

Thank you very much for your obvious expertise. Needless to say, your advise has often been appreciated by other members. I will consider it all.


Malbaby, the drum was perfect. Thank you!

Robert

TRroadster Don S
edmonton, AB, Canada   CAN
The rubber hose can also fail internally. Invisible on the outside but it can prevent the fulid returning after brake application thus holding the brake "on". If you haven't recently, replace the brake hose.

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ducbsa Bruce Metcalf
Berryville, VA, USA   USA
Boy, new cylinders are cheap!

One of the rear hoses (left?) is hard to get at. It is the only brake part on my car that wasn't replaced by the PO and I should have taken care of it when I had my diff out last year. Just pulling the axle may be enough for access.

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