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Tr4a pinion seal replacement

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ric350 Avatar
ric350 Jim Feeney
Holmdel, NJ, USA   USA
Folks, as soon as the temperature goes back to having 2 digits, I’m going to replace the pinion seal on my solid axle 65 Tr4a (mine is leaking). I’m assuming that the seal is made against the pinion drive flange, is that correct? If so, then should the drive flange be replaced as well? I’d hate to put it back together and find it still leaks because the flange sealing surface is worn too, or would wear be apparent?

Thanks

Jim

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TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
My suggestion is to try to polish the sealing surface of the flange. If you can't polish away the mark left by the old seal, put a Speedi-Sleeve on it.

I don't recall the size offhand, but it's easy enough to measure.
http://www.oit.edu/docs/default-source/facilities-services-documents/speedi-sleeve-size-listing.pdf?sfvrsn=2



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

ric350 Avatar
ric350 Jim Feeney
Holmdel, NJ, USA   USA
Randall, I was just on the Moss site and they have the Speedi-Sleeve for the flange.

Thanks!

Jim

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ric350 Avatar
ric350 Jim Feeney
Holmdel, NJ, USA   USA
When I was taking the picture of the clutch slave cylinder today, I decided to scope out the job of replacing the differential pinion oil seal. It became apparent that there is not a lot of space to move the driveshaft out of the way to get the rear drive flange out. It’s sort of boxed in by the exhaust, frame rails, and that square bracing plate where the rails angle toward the center of the car.

Can the drive flange be removed without removing the driveshaft from the car? If the driveshaft has to be pulled, can it be removed without dropping the differential? (my Tr4a has a solid axle)


Thanks

Jim

ric350 Avatar
ric350 Jim Feeney
Holmdel, NJ, USA   USA
Folks, I finished installing the rear pinion seal!
As I previously mentioned I did this on my 65 Tr4a (solid axle), with the differential in the car. First, thanks for all the suggestions you gave me. However I did run into some issues, but it worked out ok. So in case someone else needs to go down this path, here’s what I had to do. It’s a bit long winded, but I didn’t want to leave anything out.

1. Loosen the spline joint on the driveshaft.
2. Disconnect the the driveshaft from the rear drive flange.
3. Slide the driveshaft forward as far as it will go. Then lift the loose end of the driveshaft clear of the drive flange and prop it up (I used a short piece of 4x4 sitting on the rectangular plate that’s welded between the frame rails).
4. Rotate the drive flange so the bolt holes are at 10 & 2, and 8 & 4. Note the position of the cotter pin in the pinion shaft and mark it’s position on the castle nut. Remove the cotter pin. Then using a greasy finger, I marked the location of the 10 & 2 bolt holes onto a piece of paper.
5. To lock the flange in place when removing the drive flange nut, I got a piece of 1 1/4 x 1/8 flat steel and cut it to a length of two feet. This is short enough to maneuver, but long enough to sit on top of the frame rails over the drive flange. I placed the flat steel on the frame in front of the flange, and marked the 10 & 2 holes on it with a pencil. I then used the paper from step 3 to verify the position of the holes. I then drilled two 3/8 holes. I attached a picture of the bar. You’ll see the holes are offset toward one edge of the bar. I also cut a notch between the holes so it will clear the socket to remove the flange nut.
6. Bolt the bar to the flange and remove the nut. Remove the bar.
7. Remove the flange by pulling it forward (a few taps with a hammer will get it moving).
8. I tried using the seal hook tool to remove the pinion seal, but I couldn’t get good leverage with the pinion shaft in the way. So I found a “blind” seal puller (Lisle 58430) that has a hook and a lever bar. I attached a picture of it. It worked very well.
9. The problem now was getting the new seal in. With the shaft in the way, I couldn’t use the seal driver tool I have, plus there’s not a lot of room to drive it in, let alone drive it square. So here’s what I came up with. I bought three round electric box covers that had knockouts in the center. I removed the knockouts, and also got a large 5/8 washer (see picture). I put the new seal in place using a little grease to help hold it there. Then I put on the three covers, followed by the washer. I set the handbrake and put the flange nut on and started tightening it. The box covers kept the seal square and distributed the force, driving the seal in. Then release the handbrake.
10. Put the flange back on the pinion shaft (BTW - I used a speedi-sleeve on the flange). Adjust the flange so the top holes are at 10 & 2, and reattach the steel bar. Tighten the pinion nut, aligning the marks made in step 4, and put in a cotter pin.
11. Reattach the driveshaft, and tighten the spline joint. Done!

Jim


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brickwhite Avatar
brickwhite Ted Z
St. Louis, MO, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4 "TR-4"
Jim,

Would you have the part numbers of the speedi sleve and pinion seal you used?

Thanks,

trtyme Tom Tyme
Buford, WY, USA   USA
Pretty sure the flange is only 5$ more than the speedy sleeve so I'd do that instead

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TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
In reply to # 1511016 by trtyme Pretty sure the flange is only 5$ more than the speedy sleeve so I'd do that instead
I wouldn't, even if the price difference was the other way.

1) Speedi-sleeve is available at NAPA just up the road from me. No shipping charges, no waiting for it to come in.

2) NAPA price is less than Moss. (Even cheaper on Amazon)

3) Speedi-sleeve is made by an American company with an excellent reputation. Who knows where the Moss part is made, or whether it's the right steel, machined to the right dimensions, etc? Parts that don't fit right, or worse, don't wear right are a perennial problem.

4) If the Speedi-sleeve fails, you just get an oil leak. If that flange fails, you could potentially get a serious accident and, at a minimum, have to get towed home. Good chance it will ruin the entire differential too. Really sucks if you're out in the middle of nowhere, with no cell coverage, when it happens. Or on your way to an event that you really wanted to see.

Just as an example, I missed the Kastner Cup race last year, after driving over 2500 miles, because a new (non-Triumph) part was defective. (Not to mention spending some $3000 on repair, hotel rooms, rental car, fixing the damage done by the first repair shop, etc.)

5) I just like repairing original parts vs replacing them with new. If I wanted new, I'd just buy a new Miata and be done with it.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild


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ric350 Avatar
ric350 Jim Feeney
Holmdel, NJ, USA   USA
Ted, the speedi-sleeve is Moss part 520-500, and the pinion seal is 520-090.

BTW - if you get the pinion seal from TRF, talk to them first. Their parts catalog lists the wrong seal for the Tr4a with the solid axle.

Randall, the speedi-sleeve comes in a speedi-sleeve box.

Jim

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