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TR4 & TR4A Forum

Powder Blue Hardtop '62

Moss Motors
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Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, MI, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
Short answer - yes and no.

It all depends on the substrate, condition, layers, what's been done prior. What I found was the car had been taken to bare metal before. The paint and primer was solid as a rock. Most areas were DA sanded just down into paint and to existing primer. Some areas that needed body work went to metal. Inside wings went to metal in places. Underside was stripped to metal, zinc primed. The whole car was epoxy primed after the body work to seal down everything. The primer surfacer was just used to fill 220 scratches, most of it was sanded off.

I really don't like grinding - sometimes it causes more problems than it solves, but it depends. If a car is flaky and rusty you have to. The biggest problems for this body was incomplete body work and lots of paint runs. Luckily, no rust issues!

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ShortBulge Avatar
ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, VA, USA   USA
"no rust issues" ...what beautiful words...

Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, MI, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
Starting to look more like a car and moves under her own power now. The fenders are on just because its safer than leaning up somewhere. Taking a bit of a break before starting on carpet and trim. The doors currently are inside in our family room. It's amazing how many boxes, bits and bundles there are to a car until it all goes back in one piece.

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ShortBulge Avatar
ShortBulge Brian LeBlanc
Falls Church, VA, USA   USA
i'll send you mine

but...get it done before coffee brew'n!

Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, MI, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
A little tip for anyone putting the transmission in. Don't put the tin inspection cover on backwards! First time I've done this. What a racket as the flywheel strikes it. The flange side faces out from the transmission. Fixed it and drove around without doors. Very smooth, powerful. Snow is coming soon so it was nice to confirm the mechanicals as I finish the trim and upholstery. One thing I had to do was make three new surrey top clip brackets. One was left on the windscreen. I used 18 gauge sheet metal shaped like a "T", bent it to the right shape and heat hardened it with a torch, dropped it in oil to quench and then annealed it with a modest heat. If you don't anneal after hardening the steel can be brittle. The rears are riveted, the fronts are spot welded. I really don't see how these break.

I started on the windscreen today getting the black trim glued on and the rubber gasket to scuttle on. Started on the carpet. This week I'll get the carpet in, H support in, heater controls, and maybe start on the upholstery.

I made a note on the windscreen frame for someone that may want to know the original Powder Blue from 1962. It will be covered by the chrome finisher.


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Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, MI, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
Yesterday and today I've been doing interior trim. The headliner color is a perfect match to the dash color. For some reason the triangular cardboard gusset that fits to the corner strengthener at the B post has this extra bit that I don't remember seeing on a TR4, so I cut it off. Maybe TR4A's have something different. Had to jack up the dash as usual to fit the H support. I come off sounding like a salesman, but I really do like the TRF parts. They are correct and fit right. Kudos to the company.


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gozto11 Avatar
gozto11 Todd Bermudez
Cincinnati, OH, USA   USA
fyi, the hooks for the surrey top are available via Revington...not cheap for what they are, but they're available...in stainless

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Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, MI, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
Yeah, I found it was quicker to just make the hooks. They should last longer than I will. Making good progress on the car. I'm into the coach building - tedious!


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Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, MI, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
My choke cable from TRF broke inside the housing where it should be swaged to the control rod. I reinstalled the one from Moss. I tried fitting the surrey top but realized the complete kit from TRF lacks the rubber bushings that insert in the windscreen and the thumb screws at the back. Got the scuttle pushrod installed and adjusted, the glove compartment and vent grilles in correctly. Things get very tight as everything is installed. How did the engineers design this car before CAD? Found that I hadn't grounded the fuel tank and so the gauge works now.
The trim panels in a hardtop have to install with clips and screws but the upper edges tuck under and behind the backlight frame to deck. Perhaps the trim material is thicker than original but it is impossible to tuck under when the backlight is bolted down tight. The bolts are behind the trim. So I managed to get the trim in by loosening the bolts a bit and carefully and forcibly getting the trim tucked under. The bolts at the B post then were tightened and it is possible to reach a couple bolts behind the tank. I really didn't want to the tank out. Maybe the tank went in after the trim at the factory. The backlight feels very solid to the car and the trim looks good. What a relief.
Got the tail lights in and working. The new lenses look perfect. Maybe less dark red than the originals but actually much brighter when lit.
Next up is to install the guts in the doors, get them hung, then the front wings, and bonnet.
Homestretch!

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Geko Avatar
Geko Stef SG
Kuala Lumpur, WP, Malaysia   MYS
In reply to # 1502074 by Trike4 My choke cable from TRF broke inside the housing where it should be swaged to the control rod.

http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?7,1476878,1476906#msg-1476906

Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, MI, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
Maybe I'll see about returning the choke cable for a new one. The choke cable from MOSS is made wrong with the chrome bezel cast in backwards. How can they release a product with a mistake like that? But it works.

Got the doors put together. Much better job on a padded bench. Get everything inside and then loosen the channels, drop the window and the stop bracket to the bottom. This gives you plenty of room to install the clips. The inner waist seal is not too hard. The new seals from TRF are nice, and of course the outer clips take all your patience still. But having the window and channels out of the way helps. Then get the clips on the window on the tracks, adjust the bottom bump stop, and the channel bolts with the window leaned out against the out seal as far as possible. The door handles can install last by rolling the window up.

I sprayed 3M wayoyl inside the door skin to seep down into the join between skin and frame. These doors had no rust and this product may just help preserve them another 60 years.

I leave the panels off until I get the windows adjusted to the car.

Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, MI, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
The first TR4 was built July 7 1961. Mine was built Aug 8, 1962. In that time they were building about 52 cars per day not counting weekends and holidays. My CT # is 15365, Engine # 15442E, the trans # is 15378 and body # is 15220. These cars were pretty much built by hand...someone had to bolt each and every thing. I've had the advantage of not having to build the drive train but its taken me 300 hours so far. If you divide that by 8 hours it would require 38 workers for a day to build my car. They were probably much faster than me and didn't have to clean parts and find the right fastener.

mgruber921 Avatar
mgruber921 Marvin Gruber
Florence, AL, USA   USA
I have a TR4 vin plate CT 110 so that car would have been built July 8 or 9 ?
Marv

Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, MI, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
A car with a CT 110 commission number would have been built in July '61. It may have taken the production line some time to ramp up to 50 cars a day. I would imagine that there was some fitting and adjustment issues to be solved. I love the curved glass gauges on the early cars. The chassis and drive trains were so similar to TR3s that those components would have been squirting out pretty easy. The seats, gauges, handbrake were pretty much TR3.

Trike4 Avatar
Trike4 Marcus G
Brighton, MI, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4
1963 Triumph TR4 "Trike"
Getting there! Doors on, front wings, buffers under the bonnet, adjusted the rear body shims, adjusted door gaps. Next up is get the bonnet on, install windscreen and backlight, upholstery, door panels.... Interestingly the doors close perfectly on the correct rubber draft excluders. These are from TRF. The boot lid closes very nice as well but I reused the original rubber seal which was perfect. The car came to me with a switch and cigarette lighter above the H support. I used the switch for the fog lights and the cigarrete lighter is just there. The car is positive ground and I wouldn't want someone screwing up a device.
I ran a hot wire from the extra tab on the main light switch so that when you turn off the lights the fog lights are off as well. The wiring runs out the left side harness and tucks along the underside of the rain gutter all the way to the front so it isn't noticeable but can be gotten to easily.
I still have some bolts to get into the fenders at the A and B post, and I need to tweak the door alignment flush with the fenders.
Worked on the horn circuit and found that the more I use the steering wheel the better it gets. Makes me wonder if the ground in the steering rack has to be excercised. This car has the aluminum steering rack brackets.


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