TRExp

TR2 & TR3 Forum

overheating tr3 HELP

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

thegstrom Todd Hegstrom
Grand Junction, USA   USA
60 tr3. started boiling over a few weeks ago. I have had radiator out year ago and serviced at local good radiator shop. this week, new thermostat. and yesterday took out water pump to replace but the one I had in the car looks perfect. { brass blades} , then flushed the heck out of it.
drove today. boiled over again. about 87 degrees.outside used to drive regularly in summer. now I don't know what is happening.

anyone with any suggestions. has anyone heard of water pump not working when it gets hot. I had my pump in my hand and pulley shaft appeared firmly attached to pump blades . I could not twist the blades without moving pulley shaft. also pin that holds pulley is fine.


help!!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-06-10 08:02 PM by thegstrom.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
Doubledroptop Avatar
Doubledroptop David Freet
Chandler, AZ, USA   USA
1971 Triumph TR6 "White Ghost"
Is it boiling over or pressure build up from possible cylinder head gasket issue? Just a thought.

thegstrom Todd Hegstrom
Grand Junction, USA   USA
its blowing steam out of the cap and into overflow tube.
anyone ever heard of the water pump blade attachment to its shaft becoming loose once water gets hot. and thus not moving water after it heats up. with pump in my hand it appeared to be well attached to pulley shaft. ?

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
thegstrom Todd Hegstrom
Grand Junction, USA   USA
another thought is that it just cant cool when outside temp over 85-90 degrees.

CJD john durant
Southlake, TX, USA   USA
The pulley shaft should be soldered to the impeller. I doubt that is your issue. The TR3 should cool fine at 85 degrees...as I drive mine in 100 degrees all the time. The TR’s DO tend to heat when stopped in traffic, however, regardless of the outside temp. The stock cooling system is mainly limited by airflow over the radiator. Adding an electric fan is the quickest and easiest solution if you spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic.

Your issue could be one or more of several issues.

1) fanbelt loose or slipping
2). Intake water hoses to pump collapsing when hot or high RPM
3). Wrong thermostat, i.e. not shrouded to block the bypass hose
4). Scale build up in rear of block
5). Blocked radiator tubes due to detritus and stop leak usage
6). Missing air deflector ahead of radiator
7). Retarded ignition timing
8). Lean fuel mixture
9). (As mentioned) blown head gasket



John
Southlake, TX

'55 TR2

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Any radiator shop can run a simple test to see if you have a head gasket leak. I've had a lot of problems in the past where it only leaked a little bit while on the throttle, not enough to spot with the usual compression check and so on. I eventually bought the tool myself; but the radiator shop charged less than $20 to do it for me.

And it doesn't take much to make the engine overheat. If the water pump gets full of air (or combustion gases), it stops working entirely! The result is almost instant boiling, because the water is not circulating.

Lots of other possible problems, as John outlined. This was just the toughest one for me (and I've seen it on several TR3 engines in a row now).

Yet another screwball problem: with the original radiator, the tubes are not soldered to the fins, just pressed through holes in the fins. If that joint gets loose (or gets corrosion inside), the fins are no longer in good contact with the tubes, which reduces heat transfer.

Very counter-intuitive (to me anyway) : Lean mixture can be the result of worn jets and/or needles.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L Once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

TuRtle5 Avatar
TuRtle5 Kevin Kelly
Absecon, NJ, USA   USA
1949 Triumph 2000 Roadster "Coral Mistress"
1959 Triumph TR3A "Drandulet"
1962 Triumph Vitesse "Ohtoseethelightofday"
1968 Triumph TR250    & more
Hi Todd- Randall had an old post on here about the radiator cap from normal parts stores being wrong. He noted that the reach into the neck was incorrect and the cap did not seal.
- Kevin

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
In reply to # 1539757 by TuRtle5 Hi Todd- Randall had an old post on here about the radiator cap from normal parts stores being wrong. He noted that the reach into the neck was incorrect and the cap did not seal.
- Kevin
I've since been told that Stant has fixed that particular problem. They no longer claim the late TR4-4A cap will fit the earlier cars.

It's also possible to have the neck changed, so the later caps will fit. Can lead to a lot of confusion if you accidentally try to fit an earlier cap, as now it is too long and won't "blow off" as it should. A (late) friend of mine had that problem, his upper hose kept blowing up like a balloon.

I went ahead and had it done to my radiator anyway; as the stock caps never seemed to work right with a recovery bottle. I'll probably be cursed as a DPO some day; but I'll be beyond caring by then smiling smiley




Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L Once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

John Wynd Avatar
Danville, KY, USA   USA
I went thru this too. Installed a radiator fan which helped but I noticed that the fan thermostat had to be set really low in order for engine to not overheat but still ran hotter than I liked. So I checked with a infrared heat gun and a type K thermocouple and found that the rad was still fairly cool while the engine was running too hot. Thermostat? Changed a couple & even tried that Bellows thermostat - same problem. Sooooo folowing the advice from a long lost advice column on TRs I drilled a few small holes in the circumference of the thermostat (3/32”) . Now the thermostat opens properly - problem solved

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

Attachments:
4B01CD87-8C46-4C58-981D-3E1C4809E9E8.jpeg    42.9 KB
4B01CD87-8C46-4C58-981D-3E1C4809E9E8.jpeg

Karls59TR Karl Sisson
Winnipeg,Manitoba,Canada, Canada   CAN
Are you still running the stock rad fan by any chance? It may have been OK for England back in the day but it is woefully inadequate for high temperatures. I run a yellow TR6 fan (mounted back words for clearance). I also have an electric fan in front of the rad ,operated by a toggle switch on the dash, that I can turn on when I get stuck in traffic on hot summer days. No overheating issues. CJD's list is important to check out as well.

John Wynd Avatar
Danville, KY, USA   USA
Still running stock fan because I have not yet (someday i must) pulled the front apron, radiator , etc, etc and I could install a 12” electric fan through the front grill with a little help from my wife on the other side. I installed an adjustable thermostat which turns on when rad gets hot and stays on until it cools down after engine shut down - also installed a manual switch in parallel w/ pilot light on the dash. Interesting, pilot light glows even when the fan is being spun by the wind driving down the road.

Another approach: if you’ll assume that the crank hole Is the center of the radiator then it’s easy to see that air is only directed thru the grill via the shroud to the top half of the radiator & air flow to the bottom half is fairly well restricted by front faring, bumper and all. Hmmmmmm - looking at pics of old racers you’ll notice that some have cut the lower sheet metal and installed a grill here in order to utilize the lower half of the radiator.
Not wanting to modify sheet metal, I designed an installed a air scoop made from black ABS plastic which is radiator width with it’s front edge about 4” below the sheet metal.
Of coarse, this only helps when you’re driving down the road - but the difference is noticeable especially on long uphill pulls , utilizing top AND bottom half of the radiator does make a difference.
The scoop is barely perceptible on the front of the car. In fact, none of my TR buddy’s have noticed it yet.

brucejon Avatar
brucejon Gold Member Bruce Jones
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
1962 Triumph TR3B
1963 Triumph TR3B "Tupperware TR3"
1969 Triumph Spitfire MkIII
1972 Triumph TR6
Did you take pictures? Would like to see it!



62 TR3B (red), 62 TR3B project, 72 TR6, 69 Mk3 Spitfire EU setup
https://spitfiremk3.wordpress.com

John Wynd Avatar
Danville, KY, USA   USA
Attached you can see some photos of my air scoop. There are a couple of pics of my initial cardboard prototype and because the “on car” photos don’t show up very well I easily snapped the scoop out and took some pics.
When the two side wings are forcibly folded in (flexibleABS 1/8” thick) the small piece in the middle (1 1/4” x rad width”) fits into the box that the radiator sits in then the wings are pushed up inside the sheet metal and allowed to unfold. It stays neatly in place without rattling


Attachments:
9B354E5F-FBBB-4A03-A7C0-C1981F25A76C.jpeg    33 KB
9B354E5F-FBBB-4A03-A7C0-C1981F25A76C.jpeg

75C513D9-D588-46BE-AB60-CC2DC62BA142.jpeg    53.5 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
34347629-0EE3-43C0-9061-4C2C4136EF05.jpeg    40.6 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
5056A635-6CB4-44A1-8DF3-97CD123E4D85.jpeg    71.2 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
05FAF2FD-7493-4A3C-B1E6-FC7E977CBC61.jpeg    37.6 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
8E33D36C-5174-4509-90C7-FFC57AA5B0D8.jpeg    71.2 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
brucejon Avatar
brucejon Gold Member Bruce Jones
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
1962 Triumph TR3B
1963 Triumph TR3B "Tupperware TR3"
1969 Triumph Spitfire MkIII
1972 Triumph TR6
Is the view you show before pushing it up into place? It looks like it would be highly visible otherwise?



62 TR3B (red), 62 TR3B project, 72 TR6, 69 Mk3 Spitfire EU setup
https://spitfiremk3.wordpress.com

John Wynd Avatar
Danville, KY, USA   USA
No it’s not all the way into place . But besides it’s not very visible. Black on black and no lower than the frame. In the pics I’m lying on my back with two strong floodlights shining on it to make it stand out.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

To add your reply, or post your own questions




Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster





Join The Club

Sign in to ask questions, share photos, and access all website features

Your Cars

1975 Triumph Spitfire 1500

Text Size

Larger Smaller
Reset Save

Sponsor Links