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What did you do with your TR7/TR8 today?

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erictr6 Avatar
erictr6 eric l
Denver, NC, USA   USA
Well Done Rob!
I have an 81 EFI and wondering if you had to make any adjustments to your dizzie timing?
What AF did you use? I looked at KN filters.
Thanks

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bowen6951 Avatar
bowen6951 Gold Member rob bowen
Fontana, CA, USA   USA
Hi Eric,
the filter is just a cheapie that I bought from the place I got the tubing, I wasn't sure how it was all going to go together. I just did it yesterday so haven't made any changes, the local club has a Dyno Day next month so I'll see if changes are warranted. Thanks, Rob



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-22 04:35 PM by bowen6951.

erictr6 Avatar
erictr6 eric l
Denver, NC, USA   USA
Please send contact info and pat# for the AF.
And, after your dyno I'd would be interested to know if any changes were needed and if there was an improvement.
Thanks

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darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, WA, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
In reply to # 1509045 by erictr6 Please send contact info and pat# for the AF.
And, after your dyno I'd would be interested to know if any changes were needed and if there was an improvement.
Thanks

BTW, this is the filter I'm using on my TR8, it also has a 2.75 flange:

AEM 21-202BF Universal DryFlow Clamp-On Air Filter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004A71KB2/

Both AEM and K&N have sites that let you search by size.

I went with AEM because there are a lot of articles about how K&N flow well, but don't filter so well. AEM is supposed to be almost as good at flow, and much better at filtering, according to some folks.

-Darrell



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

Bergie Bob Berg
Powell, OH, USA   USA
check the flow cfm thru the original spec filter and what you are now adding...make sure there is no drop like for like......

parrisw William P
Victoria, BC, Canada   CAN
Thank you. I don’t think that’s the brand name. But pretty much the same.

Will

In reply to # 1508975 by bowen6951 Hi Wil,
it's nice to know that my fan is not the only noisy one, is that a Maradyne? I moved you one closer to your goal. Thanks, Rob

bowen6951 Avatar
bowen6951 Gold Member rob bowen
Fontana, CA, USA   USA
Hi Eric,
I purchased from DNA (http://dnamotoring.com/web) as they are fairly local to me and picking up means no shipping. Their direct price is a little lower than Ebay. Thanks, Rob
Here is the info you asked for:
Air Filter...AF-275-027-YE....Ebay #170879827242
U-bend tube...UP-275..........Ebay #400758378757

Hi Bob,
I bought this filter for convenience (and it was cheap) wasn't sure I could make the whole thing work. The EFI cars have a flexible (accordion style) hose from the filter box to the AFM they are NLA and are tattered and beat up so I would imagine that even if the air flow were down a little it will be a lot smoother. Dyno Day we will know more. Thanks, Rob

Hi Wil,
after you made me scream like a little girl in you TR7 it was the least I could do. Thanks, Rob

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parrisw William P
Victoria, BC, Canada   CAN
Hey! You’re welcome. It’s a fun car!

Will

In reply to # 1509192 by bowen6951 Hi Eric,
I purchased from DNA (http://dnamotoring.com/web) as they are fairly local to me and picking up means no shipping. Their direct price is a little lower than Ebay. Thanks, Rob
Here is the info you asked for:
Air Filter...AF-275-027-YE....Ebay #170879827242
U-bend tube...UP-275..........Ebay #400758378757

Hi Bob,
I bought this filter for convenience (and it was cheap) wasn't sure I could make the whole thing work. The EFI cars have a flexible (accordion style) hose from the filter box to the AFM they are NLA and are tattered and beat up so I would imagine that even if the air flow were down a little it will be a lot smoother. Dyno Day we will know more. Thanks, Rob

Hi Wil,
after you made me scream like a little girl in you TR7 it was the least I could do. Thanks, Rob

JGug1 Avatar
JGug1 James Guglielmino
Mission, KS, USA   USA
So, here is the modified door with the metal welded in. Mirror will attach there and here too, is the instrument cluster. The back plate will be black or dark gray. I don't know which yet.
Stay tuned.

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erictr6 Avatar
erictr6 eric l
Denver, NC, USA   USA
Rob, Darrell - any issues with closing the bonnet with the new AF?

Also, knowing the engine bay on 8's gets hot and the original AF inlet hose draws air from outside the bay, have you noticed any issues with warmer./hotter air going through the AFM and possibly messing with the ECU?

darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, WA, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
In reply to # 1511262 by erictr6 Rob, Darrell - any issues with closing the bonnet with the new AF?

Also, knowing the engine bay on 8's gets hot and the original AF inlet hose draws air from outside the bay, have you noticed any issues with warmer./hotter air going through the AFM and possibly messing with the ECU?

No problems with clearance, I think I had at least a half inch when I checked.

I put the air intake away from the engine, and removed the cover where the carb car air intake would be. Extended idling with a hot engine does increase the intake temps, maybe about 20 degrees, but it drops back near ambient as soon as moving again. The fuel injector compensates for air temp, so while hot air would hurt performance, it doesn't affect running.



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, OR, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
Well laddies,

As you may recall, I pulled the dash out over the winter for painting, to repair my leaky heater, and fiddle with my clock.

The clock effort was a partial success. I added a diode and a resistor to my clock per the instructions found here. I had already oiled my clock which let it run instead of stall within one day, but it would stall after a week or two anyway. Adding the diode and resistor (but not the pacemaker IC in the article) widened the temperature range for valid operation of the clock, and I am happy to report the clock no longer stalls at all, best I can tell. It is losing about 1 minute a day now, so I need to fiddle some more.

The dash painting was a success, the fading and worn through areas are now spic and span. I used Plastikote Charcoal Grey rubber bumper paint, and am very happy with the color match and ease of use. Great stuff. It is not a PERFECT color match, but very close and you would not know the dash was repainted unless you held an original dash part up next to it.

The heater, well, not so happy with the results. When I reassembled the car, I discovered pinhole leaks in the steel pipes between the heater matrix and the firewall. I had tested the heater matrix, but the pipes looked great and it never crossed my mind to test them. Drat. Drove it for two years with the heater bypassed, and finally tore into it this winter. Replacement pipes are not available, and they are 14mm metric in any event. 9/16" tubing is VERY close, but I was unable to find any by the foot. <sigh> So I broke out the JB Weld and sealed up the pinholes.

Reassemble the whole tamale. No more leaks. Yippee. But now I am blowing fuses when I turn on the blower. angry smiley Life Lesson: Test EVERYTHING before you reassemble. US fuses don't fit, which a good thing because it is too easy to put the wrong rating in the fuse clips and burn up some wiring. So I order some fuses from British wiring. Some more testing, a couple of burned test leads later, and I have concluded the blower motor is shorted. It was working when I reassembled the car, so perhaps it has seized from lack of use. confused smiley

So now I am looking at removing the dash again. Not a huge deal, but driving season is close and I am inclined to pull the fuse and live with it until next winter, or some vacation where I am bored. Everything else is great. Starts and idles awesome (I am using the original Zeniths), passes emissions, good power, sweet handling, comfortable, good stereo. What's not to like?

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

JGug1 Avatar
JGug1 James Guglielmino
Mission, KS, USA   USA
You are a patient and talented person.
JG

Rburgess Avatar
Rburgess Randy Burgess
Fresno, CA, USA   USA
Considering the glitches you keep finding, might be a good idea to run the car for awhile anyway.
Funny, I actually enjoy repairing broken parts on my car but I HATE fixing the same thing twice!

Good work!!

Bergie Bob Berg
Powell, OH, USA   USA
Finally fixing the triumph radio...scratchy volume control and cutting in and out left and right channel...basically a dirty control knob pot- potentiometer...one cleaner to flush out dirt, next to flush and lube and then straight lube...used clear tubing to hold solvent/oil to run thru assembly...smaller tube to move knob...then did the same process on side of pot...


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