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Britishrocker2007 Ian Cranny
Yuma, AZ, USA   USA
1979 Triumph TR7 "I Want To Live Again! "Lazarus"
Just inherited a 1979 or 80 TR7 been negleted for about 15 years any suggestions on how to go about getting it running?

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BillHoltzman Bill Holtzman
Annapolis, MD, USA   USA
Check your fuel delivery system, the condition of your fuel tank. Check ignition make sure you are getting spark. Ensure your starter is good and not pulling too much current. Run a compression tests, flush cooling system and don't break anything!
Good Luck,
Bill Holtzman

BillHoltzman Bill Holtzman
Annapolis, MD, USA   USA
Also drain fuel tank, do NOT run in 15 year old fuel.
Bill Holtzman

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sliproc Avatar
sliproc Kevin Quistberg E
Long Beach, CA, USA   USA
Ian,

Why don't you turn the ignition key.

kansanbrit Avatar
kansanbrit Phil H
Bonner Springs, KS, USA   USA
1952 MG D-Type Midget
1964 Morris Mini-Minor
1980 Triumph TR8
1980 Triumph TR8 "TR8 Holley"    & more
Take the plugs out and crank to get oil pressure up before attempting to fire up.

mcmahontr7 Chris McMahon
Fort Worth, TX, USA   USA
Is it fuel injected? That’d be cool!

allzway Avatar
allzway James P
Paris, TX, USA   USA
Probably a good chance the fuel tank is rusted beyond use.. or at least that has been my experience.

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Britishrocker2007 Ian Cranny
Yuma, AZ, USA   USA
1979 Triumph TR7 "I Want To Live Again! "Lazarus"
Thank you for your replies. Not using fuel tank in the car yet will clean out first I have an alternative method but I think the fuel pump is shot. I put oil down the cylinders and top over the cam (fresh oil), but the cap and rotor appear to bey shot. The carburators I don,t know yet as I am still wanting to move the crank and make sure oil is where it should be it does turn and it was very clean after removing the valve cover. The drivers side door is frozen shut with allot of work and oil I was able to free the passanger door. This car has sat in Yuma, AZ it's whole life doest get that cold about 48 low high is 120 mostly sunny days the whole year not much rain.There is absolutly no rust what so ever but all the vinyal is shot and so is the upholstrey. The new parts for these appear to be sparse and few any recomendations local parts stores are almost worthless.

kansanbrit Avatar
kansanbrit Phil H
Bonner Springs, KS, USA   USA
1952 MG D-Type Midget
1964 Morris Mini-Minor
1980 Triumph TR8
1980 Triumph TR8 "TR8 Holley"    & more
www.rimmerbros.com for parts. Fast shipping from the UK.

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Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, OR, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1513336 by Britishrocker2007 Thank you for your replies. Not using fuel tank in the car yet will clean out first I have an alternative method but I think the fuel pump is shot. I put oil down the cylinders and top over the cam (fresh oil), but the cap and rotor appear to bey shot. The carburators I don,t know yet as I am still wanting to move the crank and make sure oil is where it should be it does turn and it was very clean after removing the valve cover. The drivers side door is frozen shut with allot of work and oil I was able to free the passanger door. This car has sat in Yuma, AZ it's whole life doest get that cold about 48 low high is 120 mostly sunny days the whole year not much rain.There is absolutly no rust what so ever but all the vinyal is shot and so is the upholstrey. The new parts for these appear to be sparse and few any recomendations local parts stores are almost worthless.


Moss Motors (www.mossmotors.com), The Roadster Factory (www.the-roadster-factory.com), Rimmer brothers (www.rimmerbros.com) and Victoria British (www.victoriabritish.com) all carry new parts and trim/upholstery kits.

For used parts, Rob Sport (www.robsport.co.uk) and British Auto Works (www.britishautoworks.com) are among my favorites.

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, navy blue interior
Bare metal respray, Crower cam, raised compression
ported heads, modified Zenith carbs, 0.060" overbore

sliproc Avatar
sliproc Kevin Quistberg E
Long Beach, CA, USA   USA
Ian,

I'm curious, it doesn't sound like you've cranked the motor yet, so how do you know the fuel pump(which is mechanical) is shot? My point here is you seem to be all over the place, in your OP you said you wanted to get it running so you should probably start at the beginning(the battery)which is why I suggested you turn the ignition key. Of course it's always a good idea to pull the motor through by hand first to make sure it's not frozen, the crank bolt takes an 1 1/2" socket by the way.

Britishrocker2007 Ian Cranny
Yuma, AZ, USA   USA
1979 Triumph TR7 "I Want To Live Again! "Lazarus"
hi Sliproc, Thank you for getting back to me. I did indeed crank the motor over by hand and it would appear all is free. however it has been my eperiance down here in Yuma with the heat that any car with a mechanial fuel pump that has sat for a long while(severl years), tend to have the diaphram shot thus not causing them to work, or they last a couple times and give way to the pressure. My last project was a 1968 Toyota Corona that had been setting with the valvue cover off for nearly thirty years. Having said that I realize every car is different and some are easy to work on and are quite reliable while some others should be gently laid to rest and allowed to rot. I did connect my battery to the car and did bump the starter. The key is stuck in the ignition as I say the motor does turn, but want to make sure it is well oiled before making a real stab at it. Today I examined the ignition system and discovered that the plug wires are in need of replacing, the rotor and cap appear to have damage inside rotor has burned edge and cap is damaged on iside of contacts all are available through local p[arts stores but am not having luck with the points. (I can't beleive that by 1979 they were still using points). Anyway as you are probably aware in the desert the wind blows dust all over and has been piling up on everything since 95 or 97 the air cleaner was off for some reason so I am sure the carbs will neded to be rebuilt or replaced I used to do allot of this work myself but due to physical limitations that I have aquired it is nw not possible for some things. I have to ask is this project worth investing in as I see allot of cars with trouble and not many parts available not like the MGB's?

Britishrocker2007 Ian Cranny
Yuma, AZ, USA   USA
1979 Triumph TR7 "I Want To Live Again! "Lazarus"
Hi Darth V8R,
Thank you for thr info will check out. Thanks again

sliproc Avatar
sliproc Kevin Quistberg E
Long Beach, CA, USA   USA
Ian,

Concerning your stuck ignition key, the '70s brought us a lot of goofy "innovations" (seatbelt-ignition interlock, ignition-steering column lock, etc.) you might not be using the proper withdrawal sequence. Try this, with the ignition on turn the key back a quarter turn, then push the key in while making the last quarter turn if it's working properly you should be able to withdraw the key. On my '74 Jensen-Healey there's a button on the bottom of the column you have to push to withdraw the key.

Is it worth it? I'm afraid you're the only one who can answer that. I will say this, if you're trying to turn a profit you might have the wrong car, if you got it because you like then it's probably worth it. I bought mine new 38 years ago, why do I still have it---because I like it.

Ian, you seem overly concerned about parts availability, I'd say parts availability for the wedges is good, you'll just have to get used to getting most of your parts by mail. I just got a used A/C crank pulley on Ebay which is N/A though all the suppliers.Parts for the MGB might be better but then you're stuck with an MGB. FYI, the license plate on my Jensen says "NOOMG" and my favorite was on a TR-6 that said "NOFNGMG" not sure how he got that one past the DMV.

sliproc Avatar
sliproc Kevin Quistberg E
Long Beach, CA, USA   USA
Ian,

All the things you've listed probably do need to be replaced, but since you've expressed doubts about taking on this project why spend the money and time on it when you can probably get it running the way it is with minimal item replacement and see what you've got. The first thing I'd do is crank the motor with the gasline disconnected into a jar to see if the pump works and if so what comes out of the tank, you may or may not have to replace the gas and or pump. Next I'd clean up the electrical(cap, rotor, plugs, etc.) then fire up the motor or replace only what's needed to fire it. This way you've got minimum investment and you can drive it around and decide if you want to keep it, and if you sell it you'll be selling a driver with minimal investment.

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