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TR5 & TR250 Forum

surrey top

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Bpt70gt Avatar
Bpt70gt Brian T
Westmoreland, NH, USA   USA
I should have taken pictures last summer when I got my Surrey but it's all installed on the car and in cold storage so taking pictures now won't work for me. Someone will have pictures.

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gozto11 Avatar
gozto11 Todd Bermudez
Cincinnati, OH, USA   USA
In reply to # 1509509 by LGMTR6 Pictures would be a big help!

Larry, yours is a copy...don’t know if yours is the same

If you have an original you’ll see exactly what I’m referring to

DavidCole Silver Member David Cole
KY, USA   USA
Been meaning to post this for weeks. I have joined the group of surrey owners thanks to Todd. He found an original backlight and surrey frame plus an aftermarket aluminum hard top. Check out the mock up below. confused smiley

Like Brian, I got lucky with the color match. I have three questions to help me get set up.
1) I need the soft top because all I have are the sticks. Moss or TRF? Anyone have quality and fit experience with either?
2) This backlight is not from a 250 so the studs are in the wrong place. I used penetrant, heat and the double nut trick but could
not get the first stud to loosen so I quit before I stripped something. Should these be removable and what method should be
employed?
3) I'll need most of the seals as well. It seems that if generic seals of similar types to originals were used, one could save a bit of
money. Is there a source that anyone has used for other TR issues that would be worth looking into?

Spring is coming. Any help is much appreciated.

David

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Attachments:
surrey.jpg    26.7 KB
surrey.jpg

Bpt70gt Avatar
Bpt70gt Brian T
Westmoreland, NH, USA   USA
David, that all looks like they are in pretty good condition. Wish I could help here but I'd probably stay with TRF for the seals and all. No experience though on their quality for the seals etc, my top fortunately had all new seals from what source I don't know but they fit well. I didn't know that the studs were different from what your top was on before, maybe a TR4? Makes me wonder if the studs were cast in but that would have added a degree of difficulty back then. Hope someone else here can chime in and give you some help
Brian

DavidCole Silver Member David Cole
KY, USA   USA
Brian,

I had confirmation on the other forum for your TRF recommendation and your guess that the studs were "cast in." Looks like some drilling and tapping are in my future. I've been making my list for seals and will be triple checking it. I'd like to get it right the first time but there are so many bits and pieces, that seems unlikely. I am going to check with MacGregor to see if they have experience with surrey tops. I used their door seals on my MGBGT many moons ago and remember them being a quality product.

Looking forward to updates on your printing. BTW, I too have several extra, original headlight and signal switches that need the plastic tip.

David

Bpt70gt Avatar
Bpt70gt Brian T
Westmoreland, NH, USA   USA
David, That's good you are making progress on the Surrey. I finally got the printer back working today, right now running a new knob. On my TR the drivers side knob on the end of the lever that lets the seat tilt forward was missing. I took measurements off the passenger side and put that on CAD and now it's printing. Picture of the model shown, after it finishes I'll add another picture of the completed part. Later today or tomorrow I'll print out the turn signal knob. This morning I printed out some TR6 and TR7 parts that I had a request to make.


Attachments:
TR250-6 seat lever knob.jpg    11.3 KB
TR250-6 seat lever knob.jpg

gozto11 Avatar
gozto11 Todd Bermudez
Cincinnati, OH, USA   USA
In reply to # 1517906 by Bpt70gt David, that all looks like they are in pretty good condition. Wish I could help here but I'd probably stay with TRF for the seals and all. No experience though on their quality for the seals etc, my top fortunately had all new seals from what source I don't know but they fit well. I didn't know that the studs were different from what your top was on before, maybe a TR4? Makes me wonder if the studs were cast in but that would have added a degree of difficulty back then. Hope someone else here can chime in and give you some help
Brian

Studs are the same just 2 fewer on the 250. They would’ve been removed/snapped off on a 250

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gozto11 Avatar
gozto11 Todd Bermudez
Cincinnati, OH, USA   USA
In reply to # 1517936 by DavidCole Brian,

I had confirmation on the other forum for your TRF recommendation and your guess that the studs were "cast in." Looks like some drilling and tapping are in my future. I've been making my list for seals and will be triple checking it. I'd like to get it right the first time but there are so many bits and pieces, that seems unlikely. I am going to check with MacGregor to see if they have experience with surrey tops. I used their door seals on my MGBGT many moons ago and remember them being a quality product.

Looking forward to updates on your printing. BTW, I too have several extra, original headlight and signal switches that need the plastic tip.

David

Check with RevingtonTR. They carry everything. Even w shipping it may be cheaper

Peter-K Peter K
Central, ME, USA   USA
I bought an aluminum backlight frame last year and the seller had (refurbished ready to paint) welded studs to the two forward most positions when they had been cut off for fit a 4A/250. I have a 4A so now I have to cut them back off. The other studs are close to lining up except another seller repair. This time they welded a replacement stud to a broken one, crooked. So of course nothing lines up with one stud "off." Happy to have it and no I will sell the fiberglass back light that I have that sure looks like a twin to the Al one.

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tirnipgreen Avatar
tirnipgreen Silver Member Ryals Cheek
Ellijay, GA, USA   USA
1963 Triumph TR4 "YIN"
1965 Triumph TR4 "YANG"
Hello...I have had a few Surrey tops over the last 3 decades and continue to learn new things about the elusive accessory. I am by no means the "end all, be all" authority...far from it. I recall intstalling on on a TR250 I owned in the early 90's and had to drill out the threaded rivets from the rear cockpit surround. I chose this alternative to cutting off the studs on the backlight frame. If anyone ever wanted to return to the soft top, those rivets are available (Grainger) or just through bolt the soft top mounting rail to the rear of the car's cockpit. I would hate to hear of some horrific accident of some kind in the process of cutting and drilling the backlight frame. Just my opinion. I just installed new seals on my black TR4. I got the seals from TRF. I used contact cement to glue it to the hardtop panel trying to keep the front edge even the edge of the panel. I trimmed a little of the rubber on each end of the seal. It was kind of a square-ish block-like and didn't fit flat on the header rail. Speaking of the header rail...yours is the extended lip version, isn't it...? The Surrey soft top won't work without it. OK...The rear seal for the hardtop panel was a guessing game, I installed mine more vertically against the edge where headliner wraps around. I put the wide edge of the rubber seal facing down when the top is in place so that it would make contact with the top of the backlight frame. The little rounded edge of the seal sits against the underside of the panel. I think there is a picture of that somewhere in this thread. I would post pictures of what mine looks like, but I have already installed the top with was no easy task. I would like to somehow loosen the windshield and try to adjust it so the bolt holes line up better. I do not believe I will be removing the hardtop panel on this car until I have the car painted...just too much frustration. My wife and I drove down to Ric Cline's shop yesterday in Shady Dale, GA. (Ric is the MAN) The top was very secure. No rattles at all. I am very happy with the end results of the seal replacement...Ryals

Peter-K Peter K
Central, ME, USA   USA
Those front two studs that were welded to the cut off stubs on my back light frame have no corresponding hole on my 4A/ and assume also 250 since they share the same tub. So I have to cut them back off. Those aluminum "riv-nuts" inserts across the back are already removed on my tub and all other studs except the one crooked repair line up. Funny how some people "refurbish" a part without thinking - that's how I got it - studs were cut so they welded on extensions, right or wrong. In my case, wrong.

Bpt70gt Avatar
Bpt70gt Brian T
Westmoreland, NH, USA   USA
This is all interesting, I guess I lucked out to some extent. I found my Surrey top last summer, it was already fully refurbished and had been sitting on a shelf for some time. I brought it home, drilled out the riv-nuts on my TR250, I did have to "carefully' walk the holes a tiny bit-maybe 1/32" but other than that the backlight dropped right on.

DavidCole Silver Member David Cole
KY, USA   USA
Ryals,

I did get the correct wind screen cap from Todd. Here's a pic of my stud configuration. What I thought I needed to do was remove the one stud and move it to the empty hole to fit on my 250. Since the studs are "cast in" I will cut this stud off (same on the other side) and insert a new stud in the empty hole. The front holes (empty) take a bolt.

Sound right guys?


Attachments:
surrey studs.jpg    25 KB
surrey studs.jpg

scottstr350 Avatar
scottstr350 Scott Shepherd
Sumter, SC, USA   USA
I got a call tonight from a club member that wanted me to talk to a guy that wanted to sell his TR250. He said the body was rough but he thought he had two surrey tops. I have own a TR250 for 35 years and don't know anything about the tops. Can you tell me about them? They could be aftermarket are those worth anything?

I am getting pics in the next few days.

Scott

Fictioneer Avatar
Fictioneer Doug Hirt
Colorado Springs, CO, USA   USA
They are very nice. If he has two, and you buy the car, I'd be interested in buying one of them . . . if they are original items. There were/are several aftermarket versions, some better than others. I believe that MicroPlas was one of the better ones. They are rather a permanent feature as the removal and installation is kind of involved, and requires, if I recall correctly, the complete removal of the soft top frame.

Doug



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