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"D type" overdrive wiring schematic

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heraldvitesse Avatar
heraldvitesse Wayne McGill,
Oakville, ON, Canada   CAN
I'm in the process of installing a "D type" overdrive in my 1967 Herald which now has a 1296cc Spitfire III engine. The "D type" uses a relay due to it's unique 2 coil set-up in the solenoid. A 20amp coil is energised momentarily to activate the solenoid and then a 2 amp coil "holds" the solenoid in place while running in overdrive. I have several books which show the wiring of this relay, so what is the problem....................Well, the books don't agree. The Standard Triumph service manual shows connections to the ignition switch while the Clymers repair manual shows these wires going to the ignition coil. This may well be electrically the same thing, but they also differ on which terminals go to the column switch and the coil. I seriously doubt that both can be correct. Can anyone supply me with a schematic that they know for sure is correct either because they have done this job and it works, or that they have trouble shot on their own car and know that it is correct. I would also like to add a tell tale (idiot) light on the dash to show when the overdrive has been turned on and would appreciate the schematic for this as well. I've "googled" this using many different phrases and not come up with anything concrete, so I would really appreciate some advice.

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Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
Hi Wayne, Been there, done that. I will find or draw a diagram later today.
I seem to recall the wiring was changed at some point.

The important thing with the 'D' type is to add a fuse to the power wire feeding the solenoid, because IF for some reason the solenoid does not trip, or cannot trip due to impropper linkage adjustment, the wire will melt under the constant 20 amp load and may start a fire!
I recently recalled how this happened to my Herald on the Spitfire forum.

I will also show the idiot light circiut. This is easy, just a wire tapping into the power wire at the solenoid and going to a bulb. The body of the bulb goes to ground.

In my Spitfire the idiot light is set in the dial of the tacometer with a coloured crystal, like the warning lights in the speedometer.

Here we go:



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-22 11:23 AM by Tonyfixit.


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Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
OK I got my Crayola's out.

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heraldvitesse Avatar
heraldvitesse Wayne McGill,
Oakville, ON, Canada   CAN
Thank You Tony. This agrees with the Standard Triumph schematic, so I guess Clymers is wrong.

vancouver, WA, USA   USA
Wayne
The best upgrade to my 1200 was a an overdrive. Been on tours all over the Pacific Northwest. Hills are still a bitch but I can run with the big dogs on the flats. I have a TR6 and A TR250 but I just love the Herald. It harkens back to the day that one had to manage speed, rpms and oncoming hills, there is no dull time. Good luck with your conversion.
Mike C

heraldvitesse Avatar
heraldvitesse Wayne McGill,
Oakville, ON, Canada   CAN
I also have an Emerald green TR-6 that I bought brand new in April 1973. It has a factory installed "J type" overdrive. The Herald was purchased in 1986 when our growing family (5 children) didn't really fit in the " 6" anymore. It had been in a junk yard at one point, but now regularly wins awards and was on display at the Toronto International Auto Show a few years back. The "6" is also in excellent condition even though the odometer is well into it's second trip around and it sees lots of highway even today. We took it around Lake Superior (2600+ miles) last June with no problems and used less than a litre of oil.


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vancouver, WA, USA   USA
Here's mine
Mke C

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heraldvitesse Avatar
heraldvitesse Wayne McGill,
Oakville, ON, Canada   CAN
I want to Thank everyone who helped this project come to a fantastic finish! I incorporated the suggestions of a fuse in line to the overdrive solenoid and also a tell-tale light went the overdrive is turned on. The Herald happens to have an oil pressure "idiot light" located at the 12:00 o'clock position in the speedometer. For some reason known only to the designer/engineer it was thought that green would be a good colour for this warning light. I had actually replaced the electric water temp. gauge many years ago with a dual mechanical water temp. oil pressure gauge and disconnected the oil pressure light. I decided to re-use this light for the O/D "on" position and did not have to drill any holes in the dash. I had both the original Herald drive shaft (too long) and a Spitfire drive shaft with a sliding joint (too short). I elected to use the rear part of the original Herald drive shaft and the front of the Spitfire shaft with the sliding joint. The information that I received was correct and the new shaft needed to be 46½ inches long. The sliding part of the shaft made installation a breeze. The original 48 inch speedometer cable was too short, so I had a custom 54 inch cable made by a specialist in the U.K. I have a 1973 TR-6 as well with factory O/D and the switch is located on the left side of the steering column. As a senior citizen I decided to short circuit my "sometimers" and installed the same switch in the Herald rather than use either a dash mounted or shifter knob mounted switch. Without a tachometer I do not know exactly what the RPM decrease is, but it both sound and feels significantly lower.


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Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
Glad to hear it all worked out for you Wayne. I sure the O/D will add a new dimension to how you use the Herald.

My first car was a 12/50 that I fitted with a 'D' type O/D, it enabled (with other mods) me to get a 105mph speeding ticket
;-)

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Euclid64 Avatar
Euclid64 Mike B
Scottsdale, AZ, USA   USA
I am attaching a wiring diagram for my Sport 6. I have D type OD but have not fitted. I am just finishing a Diff Rebuild, so OD is next. Did you do anything
to the OD, bearings, seals? do you have the parts to locate the rear of the OD. and shorten the drive shaft.? let me know at my email mbulfer@yahoo.com
hope the project goes well.


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TriumphSport 6 Wiring Diagram.pdf    169.9 KB

heraldvitesse Avatar
heraldvitesse Wayne McGill,
Oakville, ON, Canada   CAN
I have a 1973 TR-6 with factory "J" type overdrive that I bought brand new 45 years ago this month. The car is well into it's 2nd time around on the odometer and the overdrive has never been touched. I've also owned a Volvo 6 cylinder diesel with overdrive and it could walk up a wall. It was followed by a Volvo 740 turbo intercooler wagon also with overdrive and niether of those were ever touched. So in answer to your question about bearings and seals, I say "leave then alone".
I have attached a coloured schematic (we spell funny in Canada) that was given to me and I found much easier to follow than the monochromatic diagrams in the manuals. I added the tell-tale light in the spot where the oil pressure "idiot light" was as I have an oil pressure gauge in my Herald. I used "live" terminal on the ignition switch to connect a brown wire to terminal C1 on the relay and the white wire on to the "on" terminal of the ignition switch and the W1 terminal of the relay. I believe the fuse is an absolute must on the wiring of a "D" type. Unlike other models, this one has 2 circuits in the solenoid. The primary throws the solenoid into position and can draw up to 40 amps for a split second. Once engaged, the secondary coil comes into play to "hold" the solenoid in place and it only draws 2-4 amps. If for some reason the primary circuit does not release you can almost guarantee a fire
The Vitesse or Sports 6 was available from the factory with overdrive unlike the Herald. You may be able to find an overdrive propshaft on the internet. Otherwise, and good heavy truck drive line specialist can cut your existing propshaft, shorten, weld and re-balance it. That job cost me less than $150 Cdn. tax included.


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Euclid64 Avatar
Euclid64 Mike B
Scottsdale, AZ, USA   USA
I am taking your advise, but may put in a rear oil seal and front oil seal. Wayne, your diagram looks like mine so I think we are in alignment! Since my car did not have OD, I am going to need new rear
D type OD mounting plate, plus nuts and bolts. and the switch for the steering column and the shortened drive shaft.
I had a 69 TR 6 with overdrive, in 2nd,3rd and 4th. loved it, my Dad was in England and I gave him $3,300 to by for me and ship it to Chicago, Il.in 1969. my home. I kept it until 1974, and it was stolen, and never found. That next year one of my friends told me about a Sport 6 which I bought the $375. US.


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Tonyfixit Avatar
Tonyfixit Tony M
Duncan, BC, Canada   CAN
In reply to # 1525056 by Euclid64 I am taking your advise, but may put in a rear oil seal and front oil seal. Wayne, your diagram looks like mine so I think we are in alignment! Since my car did not have OD, I am going to need new rear
D type OD mounting plate, plus nuts and bolts. and the switch for the steering column and the shortened drive shaft.

You will also need an O/D type mainshaft fitted to your existing transmission, a cam on that shaft, O/D to transmission adaptor and speedo angle drive.

It would also be good to have a lock-out switch on the gear selector.

heraldvitesse Avatar
heraldvitesse Wayne McGill,
Oakville, ON, Canada   CAN
Euclid 64 makes some valid points. I was thinking that you already had a complete transmission with the overdrive already attached. To convert a standard 4 speed to an overdrive is a lot of work and the output shaft has to be replaced with the correct one to connect to the overdrive. It can be done with the aid of a good repair manual, but is not something that the average Saturday mechanic will likely want to take on. Yes, you do need both an angle drive adaptor and a longer speedometer cable to complete the conversion along with a switch (shifter knob, dash, or steering column) mounted and the electrical relay which I mounted on the exterior firewall near the voltage regulator.
And yes, you do need an overdrive rear mount as well. There is a cross plate between the frame rails that has different holes in it already. None worked for my Herald, so I had to drill 2 new holes and bolt the mount to the cross plate. To mount the mount to the transmission, you just remove two of the bottom bolts and use them to attach the upper part of the mount. I happen to have an extra rear mount and would be happy to sell it to you. I've attached pictures which will also help you understand how it attaches to the transmission and cross plate. If you are interested, I'd be happy with $10.00 and I'm guessing that $7.50 should cover mailing to Arizona.


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Euclid64 Avatar
Euclid64 Mike B
Scottsdale, AZ, USA   USA
Wayne, I will probably take take you up on the part. 1st will send picture of what i have. it was a OD from Tex, nice young sold it to me for $150. what is got it looked real dirty and had cow manure in it. but it clean up well and with little tenderness the gears turn and look to be in good shape. I will post my pic tonight. I have parts from an non OD trans if I need anything.

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