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Gearbox Vibration

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Gearbox Vibration
  This topic is about my 1954 Triumph TR2
TR2 Avatar
TR2 john L
VINCENTIA, Jervis Bay, Australia   AUS
I have raced the TR for about 4 seasons. The engine still pull strong however G/B syncros are on the way out. My main concern is a noticeable vibration is felt through the gear stick at around 6000 rpm. Not sure if its the gearbox or the crankshaft crack causing the vibration. Gearbox and engine mounts fine.
When the engine was built I used all the right bits - roller rockers, JE pistons Carrillo rods, stress relieved nitrited crank, pedestal ends on the rockers, ARP's etc. I drop the oil at the end of every meeting. Running the original TR2 gearbox.
Your comments on the vibration issue would be appreciated.
Thanks TR2 (Australia)

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Spitfirejoe Avatar
Spitfirejoe Joe Guinan
Fremont, NE, USA   USA
1980 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "The Phoenix"
I have no clue what you might look for, and am hopeful the box in the Spitfire I'm trying to finish for vintage racing won't have similar issues. Seem to be a weak link in the cars. I know the guys on the Friends of Triumph mail list have been talking about using "Dog Box" gear sets from a supplier in Germany. Have you heard of the FOT? It is a "non-club" of like minded people who enjoy racing Triumph sports cars. No dues, no meetings, no officers - just a bunch of knowledgeable and helpful racers. I would be happy to send the group a nomination to include you on the mail list. I would only need your email address.

Joe Guinan
Fremont, Nebraska

1964Spitfire Avatar
1964Spitfire Tim P
Santa Clara, CA, USA   USA
My Spitfire has a vibration at somewhere above 6000 RPM, only noticeable in top gear. I can feel it throughout the car, not just the gear shift. Pretty sure my vibration is being caused by the driveshaft. It's about the only driveline component that hasn't been replaced or rebuild.

I currently have the driveshaft out and will be taking it to a shop to have it balanced.


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Bill Morris Avatar
Nor Cal, USA   USA
1971 MG MGB

Still using a TR2 that's dedication!

Those early boxes have some issues...
Does it pop out of gear under deceleration in third or fourth? The TR2 boxes used a bushing between the 1st and 3rd motion shaft interface. The bushing has a tendency to wear easily and will allow some degree of missalingment between the shafts once the big ball bearings at either end of the box get a bit worn.
Another possible only found on the early boxes is a spacer at the very back of the box on the 3rd motion shaft. For some reason this triangular spacer tends to crack and if it has and a piece has fallen out it could cause your issue.
The last thing that comes to mind on those early boxes is that the case can actually break and allow all sorts of bad vibes. Look at the area where what would be a bellhousing (if the car had a separate bellhousing) turns into the transmission case. I used to weld support "wings" to each side, top and bottom, much like the factory did on the later boxes. If you do weld in supports, weld them on with the box bolted to a block as the case will twist and turn while welding and in extreme cases you can't get the box back on the engine (don't ask me how I know this...).

Not a trans issue, but be sure the sliding part of the driveshaft is well lubed as well.


tapkaJohnD Avatar
tapkaJohnD John Davies
Lancaster, Lancashire, UK   GBR
I think that Triumph fitted a vibration damper to the 'box on Tr2s - or was it 3s or 4s??? - can't remember.
So I googled for "TR2 gearbox vibration" - and found at least seven hits!
This isn't a new problem and you are not alone. Go and see what they have to say.


clshore Carter Shore
Beverly Hills, FL, USA   USA
Another spot to check is input shaft spigot bushing (if it uses one!)
The tip of the input shaft fits into it, and it is very easy to forget when re-assembling.
Missing, the input shaft can run out of true as gearbox bearings loosen up

JimG Avatar
JimG Jim G
Aurora, CO, USA   USA
Look at your driveshaft and u-joints. I had the same problem, vibration started at about 95 MPH and got worse to 110-112 where I max out at our local tracks.
I checked for loose u-joints while on the car and detected no movement. I pulled the driveshaft thinking it might be out of balance I took it
to a local driveshaft shop. They showed me little tell-tale signs my u-joints were the problem.
Two new u-joints solved the problem.

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