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What are the odds of 4 alternators being defective?

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macgregw Greg Williams
Boyertown, PA, USA   USA
The ignition light comes on and stays on while the engine is running. My voltage gauge registers about 11.75 V.
- Greg

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TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
In reply to # 1531341 by macgregw Randall, where would the resistor need to be placed?
Electrically, in parallel with the bulb. I chose to have mine hanging off the back of the bulb holder, but there are certainly other options.
(The Ford alternator I used to use needed more excitation current than the standard TR3 bulb would pass.)



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

kansanbrit Avatar
kansanbrit Phil H
Bonner Springs, KS, USA   USA
1952 MG D-Type Midget
1964 Morris Mini-Minor
1980 Triumph TR8
1980 Triumph TR8 "TR8 Holley"    & more
In reply to # 1531369 by macgregw The ignition light comes on and stays on while the engine is running. My voltage gauge registers about 11.75 V.
- Greg

Have you retried all the other units now you have a bulb installed? Do all of them have the exact same connectors?

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Nemo74 Emile Bergeron
Falmouth, MA, USA   USA
Hi Greg,

Have you had any luck figuring out what's going on with your charging issues ?
What does your ignition light do when the ignition is switched on ? It should glow.
If it doesn't then the problem is in that bit of the wiring which should be easy to
trace as the lamp goes directly to the alternator through the brown/yellow wire,
the other side of the lamp connects to the fuse block through the white wire on
the lamp socket. So you should have continuity from the brown/y wire to the
alternator and 12v on the white.

The wiring is very simple, there's not much magic here.

Emile

Nemo74 Emile Bergeron
Falmouth, MA, USA   USA
Hi Greg,

Have you figured out your issues with your alternator ? I'm still leaning towards
something amiss in the ignition lamp circuit. What does your lamp do when you
switch the ignition on ? It should glow. If it doesn't then there is something wrong
with that bit of the circuit. The lamp has two wires at the socket, one is a white
wire that goes to the fuse block and should have 12v on it with the ignition ON,
the other is a brown/yellow wire that goes to the alternator. If there is not 12v
on the white wire or if there is no continuity on the brown/yellow then therein lies
your problem.

There is no magic here, the wiring is very simple.

Emile

macgregw Greg Williams
Boyertown, PA, USA   USA
Emile, I checked all of the switches while the ignition was 'on'... everything works. And the ignition light glows. There just isn't any charge going to the battery. I'm taking the car in on Friday so we can try to find the culprit. We might have to put the car on a lift so we can check the ground wire(s) closely. It seems like it HAS to have something to do with the LED lights being installed, since the battery was being charged before the change (but I did blow the fuse that controls the fuel & temp gauges, turn signals, brake lights etc. just before taking it in for the LED changeover - not sure if that effects anything).

I also emailed the folks at LiteZupp. They got back to me promptly and gave me some suggestions, along with re-sending me the directions. So we'll go over those before we attempt to search for other possible gremlins.

Again, I'm grateful for any and all suggestions!

- Greg

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
This is usually obvious, but check the 3-way connector to be certain it fits snugly onto the 3 tabs in the alternator. I've had trouble (with other's cars) with that connector not making good contact. IMO there is a very good reason why every other alternator maker uses a bolt (or stud and nut) for that joint!

Also double-check where the brown wires join the heavy battery cable. Easy for corrosion to hide under the cover.

Both of those could have failed, not directly because of the LED conversion, but from the overcharge you mentioned. Lots of current, plus a poor (relatively high resistance) connection means lot of heat. Heat plus copper means copper oxide, which doesn't conduct worth a darn (in fact it's a crude semiconductor).



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

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jerry.tr3a Avatar
jerry.tr3a Jerry Goulet
Abbotsford, BC, Canada   CAN
One way to check if there are grounding problems is to connect a wire, 14AWG or heavier, directly from the battery (-) post (not the cable clamp) to the case of the alternator. If the charging system then improves its performance with the wire in place then you know there is work to do on the grounding. I would also open as many connections as possible and clean them, even if you have do so recently.



Jerry Goulet
TR3A & GT6 MK3

macgregw Greg Williams
Boyertown, PA, USA   USA
Problem solved, I think! We installed a single-wire Delco alternator (around 100 amps) and everything is working fine... Charging at a steady 14.4v. Not sure why the 4 Lucas alternators weren't charging. They were checked by the guy who rebuilds them and all checked out OK. Maybe getting rid of the 3-wire plug and redoing the soldering where the brown wire connects to battery cable (the junction box was removed by PO) did the trick.

Anyway, everything is working fine now. I guess it's a typical LBC thing. Take the car in to have LED's installed and alternator decides to get weird on the drive home. Just because...

Thanks to all who have offered advice... very much appreciated! And a shoutout to LiteZupp. They make a terrific product. The instrument lights, brake lights, turn signals and reverse lights are much brighter. Directions are easy to follow, and their support is quick and thorough.

- Greg

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SKIKIR Avatar
SKIKIR SKIP KIRCHHOFF
OR, USA   USA
Replacing it with the delco unit should have been the first solution. I got tired of replacing the wimpy LUCAS units and went with a 75 amp Delco. Plenty of power to run the lights, fan and the EFI and still peg the amp gauge.

ciarocci Avatar
ciarocci Christopher Iarocci
East Patchogue, NY, USA   USA
EFI? *raises eyebrow*. Electro-motive EFI multi-port speed density system on mine. I see I wasn't the only one that decided those crappy carburetors needed to go.

Nemo74 Emile Bergeron
Falmouth, MA, USA   USA
Mega-Squirt multi port with EDIS 6 ignition
and wideband O2 sensor, GP2 cam,
.02 overbore, 9.5:1 CR, Delco alternator,
Toyota 5 speed.

Runs Great !

Emile

ciarocci Avatar
ciarocci Christopher Iarocci
East Patchogue, NY, USA   USA
Our cars could be brothers. In my case, the engine work is what dictated the need for EFI because the carburetors just wouldn't hack it with the cam in it. No Matter What needle profiling was used it would not run right. Did you have a similar experience?

Uberxy Avatar
Uberxy Steve Fox
Va, Charlottesville, USA   USA
Tangent, but yes the alternator will charge with a LED ignition light. I have one in mine.



SR
73 TR6
86 930

Nemo74 Emile Bergeron
Falmouth, MA, USA   USA
Hi Chris,

In my case I decided to go EFI when I did a frame-up resto to it
3 years ago. The engine was tired so I sent it out for an .020
overbore and had the head skimmed for 9.5:1 CR. I needed
a new cam so I went with the GP2. EFI was in the plans so
while everything was apart I installed and fabbed the pieces.
I went through a few iterations. The first was two throttle bodies
and injectors, then a single throttle body w/ 2 injectors and
finally port injection with 6 injectors and a 2.5" throttle body.
At some point I may try for fully sequential injection but I'm
happy with the current results.

Happy Motoring,

Emile


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