TRExp

TR6 Tech Forum

74 TR6 Door Gap/Frame Flex

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

74 TR6 Door Gap/Frame Flex
#1
  This topic is about my 1974 Triumph TR6
DeepSix Avatar
DeepSix Silver Member Paul Vovk
Omaha, NE, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "DeepSix"
Acquired vehicle last September. Driver's rear door gap a bit excessive at the top (maybe 1/4"winking smiley.

When jacked under frame ahead of rear wheel, gap increases (maybe an additional 1/8"winking smiley. When jacking the rear of the frame at the back of the car, the gap closes.

I'm guessing I can shim the body to get it aligned when not being jacked up, but is this amount of flex excessive and how to correct it if so?

Frame appears to be solid but the driver's floor pan ahead of the seat is about 60% gone (mostly along the rocker side and the front. Inner and outer rockers are solid but not sure if part of the inner is missing on the lower section (not sure as I don't know what it's supposed to look like). The vertical tabs on the sill mounting plates are not connected to anything at the sill (seems like the tabs should be welded to something. The horizontal part of the sill mounting plates are bolted to the frame as expected. I should probably attach a photo but I haven't taken one yet.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
BigChill Avatar
BigChill Silver Member Big Chill
Norwood, MA, USA   USA
Somehow I bumped into this article - think it might help -

http://www.triumphexp.com/journal/jnieves2014/16749

Go Pats!!!



Big Chill

'75 TR6 slowly coming back from the dead...

DeepSix Avatar
DeepSix Silver Member Paul Vovk
Omaha, NE, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "DeepSix"
Thanks! That helps with what I was planning. Note that the faces in my post were not there when I previewed it.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
dsixnero Avatar
dsixnero Dan Colanero
Westville, NJ, USA   USA
Paul, everything you described sounds like every TR-6 the frames are very flexable and the door gaps were bad from the factory

tkamd73 Avatar
tkamd73 Silver Member Tim Bradley
Menomonee Falls, WI, USA   USA
They don't call it the flexible flyer for nothing. Shim it so it looks good at rest, you will still see the door gaps open up when driving over bumps. If you don't like that, consider the Ratco frame, my future solution. Tim

DeepSix Avatar
DeepSix Silver Member Paul Vovk
Omaha, NE, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "DeepSix"
Thanks to all. Was hoping that was normal and not an indication of a huge issue.

BigChill Avatar
BigChill Silver Member Big Chill
Norwood, MA, USA   USA
Tim Bradley has a good point. These cars flex. If your car is up on jack stands, your gap measurements will be off. Make your measurements with the wheels on the ground, for at least a day or so.



Big Chill

'75 TR6 slowly coming back from the dead...

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
PETERCORRIGAN Peter Corrigan B
Utica, NY, USA   USA
take it to a body shop that has frame tools bring your manual -they will give you a idea of what is happening. While your there on there alignment machine or a flat floor check your ride heights on all four corners. See your shop manual for the specs. I needed to weld a broken frame up front . There will be some gap change when you jack the rear on one side maybe a 1/16 to 1/8.. Pete ask the shop if they can evaluate at a specific cost .pete

161623 George McB
Ambler, PA, USA   USA
Hello, I'm battling a large drivers side door gap myself. I've loosened mounting bolts and jacked the car with a little success, but the upper gap on the door is still twice the bottom gap. Someone rewelded this angled body piece and did a crappy job. Should I remove it, align the door and reweld the piece.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

Attachments:
IMG_0249.JPG    37.6 KB
IMG_0249.JPG

dsixnero Avatar
dsixnero Dan Colanero
Westville, NJ, USA   USA
George, you will also have to replace the rotten metal it gets welded to. I have found getting the rear floor mount closer to the frame by removing some shims and shimming up the rear tub while keeping an eye on the door and A-post, can help. Making them perfect requires adding metal to the edge of the door. Dan

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

To add your reply, or post your own questions




Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster