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TR6 spins, no start

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TR6 spins, no start
#1
  This topic is about my 1974 Triumph TR6
jtmjbda Jeff Chappell
Herriman, UT, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Mrs Thatcher"
This should be easy, but I've exhausted my knowledge and researched previous discussions, to no avail.
Finished HVDA conversion and cockpit insulation projects a couple months ago. Started her up to test transmission function--rough running but good enough for a spin around the 'hood--figured I'd deal with the rough running later, which is now.
She starts with a shot of starter fluid, but quits as soon as that's burned. That tells me it's a fuel problem, not ignition, right? I'm getting gas to the carbs; cleaned the float bowls of minor sediment; shot some carb cleaner into the needle jets in case they were gunked up from sitting so long. Fuel filter is clear. During the projects, I had removed carbs and intake manifold as a unit, so nothing was disturbed there. Distributor has not been moved, points, gap, and rotor are ok. Is there a way to check the condenser? But if that was bad, it probably would not start with starter fluid. Does my thinking make sense? What else would you LBC All-Stars check?
Thanks
Jeff

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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
You mentioned 'float bowls". Do you have SU or ZS carbs ?

gozto11 Avatar
gozto11 Todd Bermudez
Cincinnati, OH, USA   USA
Try running the car on a can of gas...disc the line at the carbs and into a can of gas. Might need 2 people? Since it runs on starting fluid it’s not spark.

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rjc157 Avatar
rjc157 ralph c
pearl river, NY, USA   USA
Most likely it's a fuel issue I would take the carbs off again and clean everything I would double check to see if the fuel pump is working and gas is getting to the carbs

jtmjbda Jeff Chappell
Herriman, UT, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Mrs Thatcher"
ZS carbs, and I already said I'm getting gas to the carbs (disconnected the line from the pump and it's pumping away).
Jeff

gozto11 Avatar
gozto11 Todd Bermudez
Cincinnati, OH, USA   USA
Then your carbs aren’t letting gas into the bowls

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
That was kind of my thought too, Todd.
There's different ways of checking depending upon ZS or SU's and why I asked..
But, Jeff when you "cleaned the float bowls of minor sediment", did you encounter any gas ?

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jtmjbda Jeff Chappell
Herriman, UT, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Mrs Thatcher"
Yes, the bowls were full of gas, that's why this is so baffling.

dicta dick Taylor
Downey, Callifornia, USA   USA
In reply to # 1507951 by jtmjbda This should be easy, but I've exhausted my knowledge and researched previous discussions, to no avail.
Finished HVDA conversion and cockpit insulation projects a couple months ago. Started her up to test transmission function--rough running but good enough for a spin around the 'hood--figured I'd deal with the rough running later, which is now.
She starts with a shot of starter fluid, but quits as soon as that's burned. That tells me it's a fuel problem, not ignition, right? I'm getting gas to the carbs; cleaned the float bowls of minor sediment; shot some carb cleaner into the needle jets in case they were gunked up from sitting so long. Fuel filter is clear. During the projects, I had removed carbs and intake manifold as a unit, so nothing was disturbed there. Distributor has not been moved, points, gap, and rotor are ok. Is there a way to check the condenser? But if that was bad, it probably would not start with starter fluid. Does my thinking make sense? What else would you LBC All-Stars check?
Thanks
Jeff

Jeff --- If none of the good suggestions already made still do not uncover the no-start problem, check that the manifold(s) are leak free at the block connection. All the nuts tight, etc. Since you had removed these as a unit....
Another WAG here...Does the engine start (with starter fluid) and die because the fluid is used up, or because you let go of the starter key?

Dick

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jtmjbda Jeff Chappell
Herriman, UT, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Mrs Thatcher"
"She starts with a shot of starter fluid, but quits as soon as that's burned."

The manifolds are good and snug--hard to get a torque wrench on some of those, but the ones that I could get to are torqued.

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
How about the air valves...are they oriented correctly using both tabs on the diaphragms for proper indexing ?

gozto11 Avatar
gozto11 Todd Bermudez
Cincinnati, OH, USA   USA
Do the pistons move up/down freely?

brucejon Avatar
brucejon Gold Member Bruce Jones
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
1962 Triumph TR3B
1963 Triumph TR3B "Tupperware TR3"
1969 Triumph Spitfire MkIII
1972 Triumph TR6
I am not an expert on carbs, so correct me if i am wrong. If the bowls have gas in them, and all else is ok with the needles/diaphram, all that is left is the venturi effect to pull the gas in. I would think squirting gas in and it runs says there is enough vacuum through the.manifold. What is.left is vacuum/airflow through the float chamber vent. Are your vent hoses in place and connected right? Restrictors?

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
"Plumbing" could be a factor, Bruce....and to your other point, although it may be academic, squirting gas or starting fluid into the throat of the ZS carb, probably circumvents the immediate need for the venturi effect which would be required to actually "suck" fuel out of the float chamber.
This might be related:
http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/15-mechanical-repair-maintenance-a-restoration/87296-Tough-Carb-Issue?limitstart=0#87296
And the resolution:
http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum/15-mechanical-repair-maintenance-a-restoration/91515-FAT-NEEDLES-a-carb-adjustment-problem#91515



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2018-01-18 10:16 AM by poolboy.

NHinNC Avatar
NHinNC Larry C
Greensboro, NC, USA   USA
Could the anti runon valve be in the wrong position? Block the hose going to it to try?



1976 TR6 Mimosa Yellow - not original
Purchased July 2015

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