So, I'm finally just about ready to start my Tr. Its been off the road about a year after a dropped valve down through a piston. Afterworking on cars 8 to 10 hours every day it's hard to find the motivation to come home and work on my own stuff. The reason for my post is that I just adjusted the valves and I seem to recall a lot of questions about methods for turning the engine by hand to get the valve closed for adjustment. I've got a tool from snap-on that is like a long set of channel lock pliers that is adjustable and grips tighter the more you pull on it. It fits around the cooling fan flange and makes turning the engine a piece of cake. The tool number is PWZ2, I think this is a fairly new tool that comes in very handy for a number of things. I work in New England and EVERYTHING is seized up this tool grips suspension parts with unbelievable power when trying to do alignments.

I just pull the plugs and turn it by the fan belt.

A Harbour Freight socket and bar on the crank or push the car while in fourth gear if the engine is in the car, or turn the engine by the flywheel if it is out.

I have owned entire cars that cost less than many Snap on tools ;-)

Like this? https://store.snapon.com/Pliers-Wrenches-12-5-8-Plier-Wrench-P640879.aspx

Using a tool to turn the fan to turn the engine risks snapping a fan blade, IMHO.

I use a self built tool - see below.

A socket, to fit the crank pulley bolt, drilled and tapped to take a stud.
A length of alloy (it happened to be, from the bin) tube, threaded to take the stud.
And extended with a length of threaded rod, as the tube was too short.
End of rod bound with tape to save my fingers!

As said above, plugs out, and it becomes easy to turn the engine either way to set the valve gaps.
JOhn

My motor is difficult to to turn, even with the plugs out.The fan belt slips using a 7/8" socket on the alternator pulley no matter how much pressure is on the belt. Pushing the car in gear is for a younger person with more room to work. I bought a remote starter switch but couldn't get access to connect the clips to the starter motor. I finally was able to adjust the valves by reaching in the car and bumping the starter with the key.

Grr snap snap snap goes the wolf. We must find a better solution to this

Your belt is too loose, and/or, when belt does not grip the crankshaft pulley, indication that it is time to replace with a new belt.

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1972 CC80594U Sapphire Blue



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-10-21 02:39 PM by Sapphire.

Yeah tapkajohnd, that's the tool but I never touch the fan with it just the flange. I work as a flat rate mechanic and finding the easiest (fastest) way to do a job is always a top priority. Trying to reindex a socket , push a car in gear , or bump the key hoping I get the engine to stop just right just takes to long. This tool fits right on the flange and I can easily turn the engine with one hand and be done in minutes

Similar to Marc's idea. With the plugs out, I use a box end wrench on the alternator pulley, and squeeze the fan belt to tighten it when rotating the engine, and let the belt go to "ratchet" the pulley back for another pull. The wrench never leaves the pulley the whole time. I also have a longer fan belt (mentioned elsewhere) as it moves the alternator farther from the head for easier access to the #1 spark plug. Goes pretty quick.

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Tom
1974 TR6 CF24871UO. Dual Weber MCHH carbs.

I just pull on the fan belt. Usually keeps it tight enough over the crank pulley. Need gloves though as the belt will tear up your hands. I don't have enough room on the crank nut because I have a puller electric fan now, no stock fan. Used to grab the blades of the fan and pull. They are pretty sturdy.

Perry