I had the engine running several times on Thursday. It starts immediately and settles into a nice idle. I turned the idle down to about a 1000, we'll see how that works once I get it driving. I shot another video and posted it here: https://youtu.be/2AMk7t8slYE . I'm pretty happy with how it is running.
I also let it run long enough to find the 10amp fuse I had put inline on the fans wasn't enough, the car got up to just below the red mark on the temp gauge. I shut it down and got a little boil over from the expansion tank. I replaced it with a 15amp and will keep an eye on that. The thermo switch and fans work fine, kept the gauge just below half while sitting and idling
I had checked all my wiring and could not figure out why it would not shut off on the last run. After the first run on Thursday, it didn't shut off again. I did some probing with a voltmeter and found the ignition switch (white) wire had about 6 volts on it still, enough to hold the ignition relay closed. I tried the old relay and it did the same thing. That was very odd. I looked at the schematic and could only figure the alternator had a diode problem and while it was running it was feeding the circuit with enough voltage. I then disconnected the sense wire that feeds the ignition lamp on the dash and everything worked. I could shut it off with the key, so I thought I found the problem.
I figured it was just a bad diode in the alternator and that night started searching for alternator upgrades. I decided this was better than a rebuild of the Lucas (like I did for the Spitfire). I decided to go for the common ACDelco C130 upgrade. Then I widened my search to see if anyone had a similar symptom to mine. It turns out they did and it was unique to the '77 and likely complicated by my change over to the Pertronix Ignitor ignition system (which required a reworking of the wiring) interesting....
It appears in '77 when the electric fans were added, they also added the ignition relay. That wiring was changed in '78. This change moved the supply for the coil, from the fuse box (white/brown wire) which is the ouput of the ignition relay which also powers the fans and other things, over to the white wire, which is straight from the ignition key switch. So in my set up, I just moved the red power wire to the Pertronix over and spliced it with the white wire which switches the relay. I will try another engine run once I get the fuel system setup. I need to remember to reinstall the sense wire on the alternator, with everything wired up it was putting out 13.9V so it seemed to be working well.
Heavy thunderstorms yesterday gave me an opportunity to finish tiling the bathroom.
I spent today blowing out the fuel line (lots of crud and gunk) and replacing the fuel filters (more crud and gunk). The mechanical inertial in line valve looked pretty crusty, so I took it out and tried to clean it out, eventually I gave it up and decided it was too far gone to trust in the system (lots of rust and crud kept coming out), so right now it serves only the purpose of supporting the fuel line and is bypassed. I need to replace the electric inertial shut off for the fuel pump but I will use a modern alternative there.
I hope to get some more time tomorow to work the fuel pump and maybe the tank.
Moved the red power wire over to the ignition switch feed (white) wire
Final setup for the engine fuel line, two filters for now, one that I can see what it collects
Using the mechanical inertial valve to support the fuel hose
The second filter should allow me to see if any additional sediment is in the fuel line