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Power steering rack rebuild

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BondoRacer Avatar
BondoRacer Roman H
Chicago, IL, USA   USA
Wow! How did your spool valve come apart like that?
When I did this I removed the spool valve assembly prior to removing the rack. I wonder if this is what kept it together. I would do as John suggested and tap the housing until the pinion comes out.
Be careful on reassembly as the spool valve can go back on 180 degrees out and then you do not gat any assist.

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sheetsofsound Avatar
sheetsofsound Brent Taylor
New Westminster, BC, Canada   CAN
I did as suggested and out it came after a few big hits. I have pulled it mostly apart now and am getting ready to put it back together.

I had marked the spool valve and can now see what you mean - it would be really easy to get it bass ackwards. I got it apart by opening the circlip and sliding it off. The housing came off pretty easily and I'm wondering if the leak was coming from the top. In some of the diagrams there is a washer under the circlip. There wasn't one there when I took it apart.

The bearing there on the right has a few rough spots so I am hoping I can find a replacement. The other bearings seemed fine before disassembly, no play.



Brent

Secretbuzzard Avatar
Secretbuzzard John Greenwood
Jacksonville, FL, USA   USA
Take the splined section in one hand and the pinion gear part in the other. Rock them back and forth against each other. Feel any play at all? If you do it will be magnified at the steering wheel. It means that the roll pins in both ends of the pinion/spool valve assembly are worn. I had about one inch of dead play in my wheel caused by a small amount of rock between the two shafts. Now is the time to replace the nearly 40 year old roll pins. The bottom was the loosest, but the top contributed as well. Read my thread and you'll see how I replaced them all (there are four pins total!) Your leak was most likely coming out of the top seal which can be replaced in-situ by just removing the u-joint (as can the upper roll pins.) The rack manufacturer used the same length pins in top and bottom. However, the bottom pin can be longer as there is more room. A longer pin would last longer as well because it would be supported at its ends in deeper holes. The pins I bought at Ace Hardware were the correct length to fit the longer bottom holes, but had to be cut down with a Dremel for the upper ones. You want it as long as possible without interfering with the splines.

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sheetsofsound Avatar
sheetsofsound Brent Taylor
New Westminster, BC, Canada   CAN
Good tip - checked the pinion for play. There is the merest hint of movement at one place in the rotation, not even a millimeter, you can just barely feel it; otherwise good.

I found a replacement for the bearing - SKF 98205 - over $100, plus shipping. I haven't cleaned it yet, so I'm hoping there's maybe just some dirt or debris in there from my inept fumblings during disassembly. I will clean it out tonight and see what kind of shape its in.

One of the hardlines is not in good shape, so I'm looking to replace that as well.

Edit: The bearing had dirt in it. Some good blasts of Brakleen and it seems good. Painted up some of the parts and will leave overnight. Tomorrow I will finish cleaning up the rest and replace the remaining seals.




Brent



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-12-28 10:31 PM by sheetsofsound.

LaVerne Avatar
LaVerne LaVerne Downey
Fruita, CO, USA   USA
1954 MG TF "Green Hornet"
1969 MG MGB
1979 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
Got mine sitting on the bench now and the kit beside it. Say a prayer for me. grinning smiley

sheetsofsound Avatar
sheetsofsound Brent Taylor
New Westminster, BC, Canada   CAN
I am waiting on new boots for mine and it will be ready to go back in the car. Having done it now, its not that hard, just fiddly. I was very careful on the cleanliness. The only bit that had me really worried was the seal that goes on the inside. Getting it over the rack teeth was nerve-racking. Lots of lubrication and patience. The other part that was surprisingly stressful was getting the 4 Teflon rings over the pinion. The first one goes on easiest, but the last one was a real bear. And its easy to get the ring rotated 90 degrees in the process.

In spite of spending a fair bit of time filing new square teeth in the castle nut and making sure my homemade tool would fit, I couldn't get it all the way to the recommended torque specification without the tool hopping out of place. Part of the problem was the threads were pretty damaged from previous ministrations and I do not have a die that big to make repairs. That's the only part I'm nervous about.

Good luck!



Brent

LaVerne Avatar
LaVerne LaVerne Downey
Fruita, CO, USA   USA
1954 MG TF "Green Hornet"
1969 MG MGB
1979 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
I now have the rack and housing all cleaned up and ready to assemble.. Pinion will come after I finish that. Question I have now is...The seals I have removed have two different widths of expanders and the manual is clear that the wider one goes in the rack housing just as I found...however both of the replacement seals with the expanders are identicle and neither has a longer expander. How have you addressed that? I'm also curios about the longevity of the single lip replacement seals verses the multi ribbed originals.....anyone care to weigh in on that?


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LaVerne Avatar
LaVerne LaVerne Downey
Fruita, CO, USA   USA
1954 MG TF "Green Hornet"
1969 MG MGB
1979 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
Anybody?

sheetsofsound Avatar
sheetsofsound Brent Taylor
New Westminster, BC, Canada   CAN
Just got home...

The seals that came out of mine were much like the ones that went in - the expanders were the same size and the seals did not have multiple lips. I had a similar reaction when I read that detail in the manual. As I stated earlier, someone had been there before me and undoubtedly changed the seals from original. You got the same kit as me from the looks of things. My rack was behaving like one of the Fountains of Rome, so I'm hoping that the cause was not the replacement seals with the matching expander rings that I removed.



Brent

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