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No accelaration or power

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tirebiter Jeff Garber
Dighton, MA, USA   USA
I don't recognize it. If I were to guess I'd say oil separator. Probably not something that can make the engine run incorrectly.

I have been able to fix a large percentage of fuel injection systems just by making sure all the grounding points are in good shape. Have you located/inspected/cleaned all of them in your TR-7 that the electronic fuel injection system relies on ?

Do you have a wiring diagram that shows each of the grounds ?

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Rover827 Avatar
Rover827 Rich Truett
Berkley, MI, USA   USA
1979 Triumph TR7 "Haggis"
1981 Triumph TR8
1982 Triumph TR8
Rebuilt air flow meters are available here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-Bosch-Air-Flow-Meter-0-280-202-016-Core-Credit-of-66-Offered/301072545459?epid=74912231&hash=item46195276b3:g:-8EAAOxy4dNS2bdA:rk:2:pf:0

You can buy one theirs or have yours rebuilt.

I use one of theirs on my TR8. Works perfectly. Others say they have had different experiences. I say it's worth a try since the parts are warranted.

Lagodude Avatar
Lagodude Garry Bayer
Lago Vista, TX, USA   USA
Hi Jeff,

I do not have a wiring diagram that shows all the grounds. Where can I get one?

Thanks for your suggestion,

GarryB

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Lagodude Avatar
Lagodude Garry Bayer
Lago Vista, TX, USA   USA
Hi Rich,

Appreciate the lead. I'll look into FIC. Sounds promising.

Thanks,

GarryB

tirebiter Jeff Garber
Dighton, MA, USA   USA
https://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/tr7-8fi.pdf

It doesn't show where the grounds are located but does have a 1980 wiring schematic. Apparently, you'll have to dig around to locate the grounds, yourself. I checked the wedgeyhead website and didn't see any reference to gounding point locations there, either.

mcmahontr7 Chris McMahon
Fort Worth, TX, USA   USA
Garry,

That part is the breather. The rear valve cover hose connects to the top. The bottom tube goes to the heater pipe in the middle I think.
Are your 4 plenum 45° hoses going to the intake in good shape?
From the pictures I see, the (static) timing marks are correct.
I’m telling you, if you haven’t hooked up a timing light to set the (dynamic) timing, then it’ll just run like blaaa. Get the timing light and be prepared to adjust the idle adjustment screw and the distributor.
Get the idle around 1000rpms and the timing mark between 8° an 2° BTDC. After you tighten the screws/bolts recheck timing and go for a spin.

Chris

Lagodude Avatar
Lagodude Garry Bayer
Lago Vista, TX, USA   USA
Hi Chris,
I will reinstall the breather, I had eliminated it. Not sure what it's purpose is.
The plenum boots are new at tight.
The timing is within the margins and I have her idle at 1000-1100 RPM.
The only way she will start and run is with the flapper held slightly open. I understand that vacuum opens the flapper during cranking, it does not move. I have removed the MAP and completely cleaned it. No change.
Any other ideas?
Appreciate your advise.
Thanks,
GarryB

Lagodude Avatar
Lagodude Garry Bayer
Lago Vista, TX, USA   USA
Jeff,

Appreciate the Manual PDF file. I think that will help.

Thanks,

GarryB

Lagodude Avatar
Lagodude Garry Bayer
Lago Vista, TX, USA   USA
Hi Guys,

Anyone had any issues with the Extra air valve?

Thanks,

GarryB

mcmahontr7 Chris McMahon
Fort Worth, TX, USA   USA
All of the fuel injection components can be tested. The Air Flow Meter (AFM), Air auxiliary valve, coolant temp sensor, cold start injector, thermo time switch, and air temp sensor, which is in the manual. I don’t think those are the problem. The air temp sensor is in the flap of the AFM.
I think your problem is the AFM. Pry off the black cover of the AFM. There is a spring and cog wheel with teeth and a sweeping arm. By loosening “B” and moving that sweeping arm, you will riches or lean the engine. By moving the large black cog gear, that’ll tighten or loosen the spring that the air flap connects to. It sounds like the spring is too tight. Just make a mark where the black cog wheel is before you move it. Maybe it needs to be cleaned and lubricated. You can check if the fuel pump works by slightly moving the sweeper arm or flap with the key on acc not start. You’ll hear it. Either way, look on YouTube for Bosch AFM adjustment. It’s not hard and worth it. These things are old and mechanical. They need attention too. Also, fuels nowadays aren’t the same as 38 years ago. Start the engine and manually move the arm. You will hear the sweet spot. Then rev up the engine until there isn’t a hesitation spot.
Good luck,

Chris


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mcmahontr7 Chris McMahon
Fort Worth, TX, USA   USA
Garry,

One more thing. This diagram shows where the breather goes. If you had it disconnected, that may have been the problem. Also, check to make sure the large 3” dia hose from the air filter box to the throttle body is tight without cuts and rips. While the engine is running, you can spray carb cleaner or starter fluid around the engine where possible air leaks can be. The engine will rev up if there is one.
I hope you figure it out. That is such a fun engine.


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Lagodude Avatar
Lagodude Garry Bayer
Lago Vista, TX, USA   USA
Hey Chris,
Your suggestion fixed this issue.
I removed the cover on the AFM and did the adjustments you suggested. I moved the cog wheel one tooth CCW and the she started and ran, without stalling out. But not enough to drive. Moved to wheel one more cog CCW and ran and idled much better, still not comfortable to drive. Moved it one more cog CCW (totlal of 3 cogs) and she started perfect and ran better than ever. Idle is smooth and acceleration seems to be great. Hoping for test drive soon. Need to get brakes issue resolved first.
Chris and all forum I appreciate all your help.
Thank you,
GarryB

Rburgess Avatar
Rburgess Randy Burgess
Fresno, CA, USA   USA
It is my understanding that the part pictured is an oil catch can that is a part of the engine venting system. This part was missing from my car when I got it. I simply bypassed it until I finally located a used part. My car ran exactly the the same with or without this part.

I’m not trying to add to your problems but something that I struggled with that you should be aware of…my FI TR7 would intermittently quit running as if it ran out of fuel. All I had to do was wait 5 or 10 minutes and the car would start and run perfect until the problem would repeat itself. I reached out and one of the members here did suggest that I verify that the pick up fuel line from the tank to the inlet of my fuel pump was FI rated. That hose being an unusual size I couldn’t find FI hose from local parts suppliers so I used regular fuel line. The hose is pretty short and was not easy to squeeze shut so I dismissed it as a potential problem. Turned out it was the problem all along.

BTW, I am NO expert but sounds to me that you do have a bad MAF. I had my car running pretty decent when I ran across a used low mileage MAF on Craigslist. I purchased and installed it and made a profound difference in how well my car ran at cruse speed. I can send you my old MAF that you could keep free of charge. This may not fix your car but should help you diagnose it. Let me know if you want to try it.

Good luck. Sounds like you have spent a fortune on your car working the gremlins out. I know that they can be frustrating but you are too close to quit now!

Rburgess Avatar
Rburgess Randy Burgess
Fresno, CA, USA   USA
Garry, sorry, I didn't notice that this thread had two pages. Didn't realize that you already received an answer to your question!

dhuddleson Avatar
dhuddleson David Huddleson
Manotick, ON, Canada   CAN
Randy,

The hose from the tank to the fuel pump is a suction hose, and is 12mm diameter. Go to VW specialists, and particularly VW Bus of late 70's into the 80's where they used fuel injection. I might still be able to find you an EBay seller for that reinforced hose.

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