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Fuse keeps going

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oliviertr7 Avatar
oliviertr7 Olivier Addes
Pezenas, Hérault, France   FRA
1978 Triumph TR7 "Triumph TR7"
if none of the elements, attributed to the fuse, blow it up, look at the connections behind the fuse box



a very good day to all

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tirebiter Avatar
tirebiter Jeff Garber
Dighton, MA, USA   USA
One diagnostic aid I've used when faced with running out of spare fuses while tracking down an intermittent short is a circuit breaker. Car stereo/alarm/communication shops usually stock several sizes in the 35-Amp to much higher range. Lower too, possibly. The ones I've used reset themselves when they cool down after tripping.

They are available all over the internet also. Just make sure the Voltage and Amperage are what you want. I suppose it matters that you look for a DC current circuit breaker. Someone else on here may know better.

It's less time consuming to let a circuit breaker cool down after tripping and turning back on than swapping fuses constantly. Also you can put long leads on it so you'll be able to disconnect/reconnect as needed, out where you are working, while wiggling wires and looking for cut/worn through insulation.

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dhuddleson Avatar
dhuddleson David Huddleson
Manotick, ON, Canada   CAN
One consideration about the door lights is that the wiring passes through the front pillar and into the front edge of the door. Opening and shutting the door over many years could have cracked and broken the wire insulation (as well as the copper wire inside...) allowing bare copper to touch ground/earth or another wire that leads to earth. I can't remember if it is possible to disconnect the door wiring inside the main body of the vehicle (multi-pin connector?), but that would be one way to eliminate door lights from the failing fuse circuit.

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Count Draguar Benge Collins
County Durham, Barnard Castle, UK   GBR
In reply to # 1603099 by dhuddleson One consideration about the door lights is that the wiring passes through the front pillar and into the front edge of the door. Opening and shutting the door over many years could have cracked and broken the wire insulation (as well as the copper wire inside...) allowing bare copper to touch ground/earth or another wire that leads to earth. I can't remember if it is possible to disconnect the door wiring inside the main body of the vehicle (multi-pin connector?), but that would be one way to eliminate door lights from the failing fuse circuit.

I get my car back this weekend, I think this might be a spot-on diagnosis, thinking back I think the fuse tends to go when the passenger door is used. I once replaced the fuse from the drivers seat and it was fine for 3 or 4 days before going whereas it'd never lasted 24 hours before. I had a passenger the day it went.

I'll let you know what I discover, smiling smiley. Thanks

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