https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injection-Cold-Start-Valve-Standard-CJ45/333049397393?fits=Model%3ATR7%7CMake%3ATriumph&hash=item4d8b4a8091:g:sCwAAOSwiSJblYfa:rk:116:pf:0&vxp=mtr

And that’s the reason I try to fix them first! I don’t pay that much for my cars!!

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1975 TR7 FHC Ca Spec ACL 4spd
1976 TR7 FHC Ca Spec 4 spd (Temp add)
1977 TR7 FHC ACW 5Spd
1978 TR8 DHC ACT FI development car 5 Spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI Spider 5spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI Spider 5Spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI 5spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI 5 spd
1981 TR7 DHC FI 5 spd

Thanks all - very helpful info as I dig further into this car. EFI systems with ECUs don't like a dodgy fuel supply.
Looks like I'm going to remove the tank, inspect and flush. (Just did a search online - holy moly - there are no TR8 tanks available anywhere...)
As for draining the tank - I agree, let the pump do the work

Carb-Dave (now EFI-Dave)

This injector is much more reasonable: CJ50.

Vance

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1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, frame off restoration, complete.
1980 Vermilion TR7 Sprint replica, in progress.

This injector is much more reasonable: CJ50.

Vance
[/quote]

Thanks...there is now one less cold start injector available for purchase in the world..

Fuel rail pressure looked good - steady at just over 38 psi..at least I have that going for me...still gotta drain the tank.

Carb-Dave (now EFI-Dave)

I'm struggling now with the filler neck removal. But first.....
How do you remove the evap cannister (see below)? Pull up, pull down, twist...I don't want to break anything
Thanks..
Carb-Dave (now EFI-Dave)

I never did figure out how that comes out, and it felt so brittle that I didn't want to put much force on it in any case. But I didn't need to remove it to get the filler out. If I recall, just unbolt the filler neck from the body from the top, and drop it down with the tank.

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Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

I seem to remember it’s in a sort of key hole so you lever it up and pull away from the panel it’s attached to. The filler neck is secured with 3 screws which are normally buried in crud in the bottom of the plastic trim ring. Once the screws are out the filler neck drops down with the tank. Top tip mark the relationship between the rubber hose and the tank before dismantling so you get the angle right when you put things back

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1975 TR7 FHC Ca Spec ACL 4spd
1976 TR7 FHC Ca Spec 4 spd (Temp add)
1977 TR7 FHC ACW 5Spd
1978 TR8 DHC ACT FI development car 5 Spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI Spider 5spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI Spider 5Spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI 5spd
1980 TR7 DHC FI 5 spd
1981 TR7 DHC FI 5 spd

The workshop manual gives some guidance - see attached carb details. For efi cars the extra instruction is brief....

FUEL TANK
Remove and refit 19.55.01
Follow the instructions for carburetter fitted
vehicles, operation 19.55.01, noting that the
fuel return pipe from the pressure regulator
must additionally be disconnected and reconnected
to the fuel tank.


There is a company in UK (TD Ftichett Ltd) that have the original TR7 fuel tank pressing tools - but only for the single hole tank. However a second hole could be made in a new tank without too much difficulty, the trouble would be the lack of swirl pot and baffles for the efi car.

Brian

Brian - now I know what the 'ROM' is and have downloaded a pdf copy - thanks! This answers many questions.
Operation remove fuel tank commences today.

Carb-Dave (now EFI-Dave)