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TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
You forgot the option posed at the origin of this post, which is the perfect solution if you think you are going to need replacement rotors on a regular basis. This is what I do, and is also what many of the Lemons racers use. Instead of using off the shelf steel rotors, you can use Wilwood blank rotor aluminum hats and replaceable rotors. Glen can make up the brackets for the Wilwood calipers using the Wilwood rotor/hat combo. Its a more expensive buy in because the blank hats are $100 a piece, rotors start at $32, and then you need $20 worth of Wilwood rotor bolts. Once the hats and brackets are machined to fit the TR7 hub, then its just a matter of replacing the bolt on Wilwood rotors each time. Glen can drill the 4 wheel stud holes and make a centering ring to take up the difference between the TR7 centering section of the hub and the center opening on the aluminum hats. The reason the Lemons guys can get away with this expensive mod is because TR8 rotors are over $100 a piece. The Wilwood rotors are $32 and can be purchased anywhere performance parts are sold. Swap rotors a couple of times a season and the costs equal out. I use the 11.75"X.81 vented rotors, but you can easily go bigger. My LS3 powered car is using those 11.75s on the back and 12.19" rotors on the front. There are half a dozen or so TR8s around here running that exact setup. Glen just came up with the Mini Cooper rotor setup as a cheaper alternative. Mini rotors are around 100 -125 a pair buy in compared to the $300 or so for Wilwood hats, rotors, and bolts. They both require additional machining, but its comperable machining costs. The difference in weight between the all Willwood setup and Princess caliper and whatever steel rotors has got to be 20 pounds per side or more. Ever pick up a complete stock strut assembly? Pretty heavy right? Now try and pick up one with a Rimmers big brake setup. Better have a back belt strapped on. Try picking up one with my choice for big brakes and a coil over setup. Substaintially lighter than the stock strut assembly and much much cooler.

Using the rotor hats as slip over instead of bolting to the back of the hub adds about 3/8" or 10mm spacing. This is ideal if you swap wheel bolt pattern to 4X100, because it now allows you to run 4X100 +35 offset wheels. That just so happens to be the perfect sized wheel for Miata, Honda, and VW that use 4X100. That means lots of cheap good wheels. If you are going to race a wedge, think of the savings buying Miata wheels off of Craigslist over buying TR7 bolt pattern wheels at $700 a set. If your goal is bigger brakes and new wheels for your wedge, then this is a very cost effective route to bigger, better, cheaper. You can buy sub 10lb Enkei wheels in that size for around the same cost as a set of 15lb Rotas in the TR7 pattern. Or, you can go on CL and pick up a set of Miata wheels for $150.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-12-08 06:18 AM by TR8todd.

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bowen6951 Avatar
bowen6951 Gold Member rob bowen
Fontana, CA, USA   USA
Hi Rob,
as I have mentioned before I have Glen"s kit and I could not be happier with it. Mountain roads don't affect them, we had to make a high speed panic stop and they went straight and gave us plenty of room. They go on EASY, open the box put the parts on bolt it together and bleed it. I could understand If you were in the U.K. why you might want to source production parts from there but you're not. I have about 8,000 miles on the car (means the brakes) and they still look new. Just seems like all the time you are spending thinking and researching this you could have had the brakes done. My 2 cents. Thanks, Rob

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sheetsofsound Avatar
sheetsofsound Brent Taylor
New Westminster, BC, Canada   CAN
I copied and built a set like the ones Todd came up with at the beginning of the post, and for the exactly the reasons he just outlined. The hubs have been drilled out to 4x100 and I have 15" wheels on the car. I had to come up with the brackets myself and had a machinist make them from measured drawings that I made. It took a couple of tries to get it right. So far it is only theoretical, as I have mounted and bled them, but the engine in the car is not running yet, so no road test. They work going the few feet in and out of my garage. smiling smiley

The brackets are steel and heavy, that's the only part I'm not happy with. My son is at art school and has access to a 3D scanner. I'm going to remove the brackets, have them scanned, prettied up a bit, converted to CAD, and get them machined out of billet aluminum. If anyone is interested I'll make the drawings available when they're done. I have to wait until my son's exam season is over and he has time to do this for me. With an art school degree I suspect he'll be living in my basement until, well, forever, so he owes me a solid on this one.




Brent

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robtr8 Rob Stephenson
Lake St Louis, MO, USA   USA
Got care packages from Glenn and Summit yesterday.



1980 TR8 - MBT-RX, Overdrive Plus, GM-D9605, GS62, TS-SW2502S4 (2X), Glenn's Wilwood kit, Ted's everything else.
2006 XC90 V8 - AVH3300NEX, PDX-F4 (2X), PDX-M12, GB10, GB25, AR6K, GB12D4 (2X), Craven, IPD.
2008 328xi - AVH7800BT, GM-D8604, GM-D9605, MT230, GB40, XE 200, Primo 12"
2011 XC60 T6 RD - She won't let me.

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trekcarbonboy Avatar
trekcarbonboy Craig Hall
Perkasie, PA, USA   USA
How does one acquire Glenns kit? Please and thank you.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2019-01-08 11:57 AM by trekcarbonboy.

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TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
You call Glen and talk to him. He is in Florida for the month so not much he can do until he gets back. I'll PM you his phone number.

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  trekcarbonboy thanked TR8todd for this post
trekcarbonboy Avatar
trekcarbonboy Craig Hall
Perkasie, PA, USA   USA
Thank you Todd!

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glenzo654 glenn brackett
buzzards bay, mass, USA   USA
yup 80 degrees jan 8th in cocoa beach isn,t hard to take

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darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, WA, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
For anyone that has installed the Wilwood version with stock lug spacing, did you have any tire rub by spacing out the wheels 3/8"? I'm running 15x7 Rota wheels with 205/150-15 tires.

For those with the Mini version, does the rotor completely engage the pads? I current have another conversion that doesn't, about 1/8" of the top edge of the pad is beyond the rotor.



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-21 11:51 AM by darrellwalker.

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TR8todd Avatar
TR8todd Todd Kishbach
Mass, USA   USA
1977 Triumph TR7 "Rally Fraud"
1978 Triumph TR8
1979 Triumph TR7
1980 Triumph TR8    & more
Glen's mini rotors mount in the back as do the stock ones. No effect on wheel offset. The guys that go with the aluminum hats and rotors either run 4X100 where the extra 3/8" is essential to get 4X100 +35 wheels to fit without rubbing struts. On stock bolt pattern it puts the tires 3/8" closer to the fender lips. On cars without modified lips, its most likely cutting it a little close. Roll the lips or trim them slightly, and its not an issue. All comes down to how well the inner fender and outer fender lips lined up when the the chap at the factory decided to squeeze the trigger on the spot welder. Ive seen 15X7 stock offset rub and I've seen 15X7 with the extra 3/8" not rub. All depends on the car. You could always stack up a couple of washers on each wheel stud and then remount the wheels. See if they rub or not.

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darrellwalker Darrell Walker
Vancouver, WA, USA   USA
1966 Triumph TR4A "Christy"
1981 Triumph TR8 "Kate"
Thanks, Todd. I was looking for some wheel spacers to test, but they don't appear to come small enough for the stock PCD. Are the stock wheel studs long enough for a 3/8" spacer? How much thread engagement do you need?



Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

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