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TR6 rear axle removal

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140421302 Steven Borabeck
PITTSBORO, NC, USA   USA
Ah, got it. My problem wasn't separating the axle at the spline but removing it from the car. My car is a 72 and does not have a collar on the axle.

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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
I don't think the model year matters. The TR6 at the tech session with the collar was also a 72.... I think it was just a matter of whether or not during the past 40 something years if the ORIGINAL axle was replaced with a REPLACEMENT axle that had the locking.
collar.
I believe you'll find replacements with locking collars at BPNW and Moss as well
https://www.bpnorthwest.com/triumph/tr250-tr6/drivetrain-axles-bearings/side-axle-driveshaft-tr4a-irs-tr250-tr6.html
https://mossmotors.com/sliding-axle-assembly-new
Unless the locking collar is "unlocked" the axle can not be separated and therefore the 'female' half of the axle and the hub can not be withdrawn from the Trailing Arm ...and that was the reason for my questions to Steven Borabeck...hoping his answer would have shed a little more light on his actual situation....that being either a collar that needed unlocking OR more a more persuasive technique needed to simply loosen the hub's contact...



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com

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johnstydo John Styduhar
Hermitage, PA, USA   USA
Make sure to use the OEM brand U-joint that can be purchased from TRF and not the NAPA or other aftermarket brand of you will regret installing them. The aftermarket brand have caps that are too long and do not seat properly in the bore. Don't ask me how i know.

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ripvwsss Dennis B
Forest, VA, USA   USA
I have been following this thread as I was getting ready to replace my axle u-joints. I started on the project yesterday and sure enough the left side axle hub would not budge after all the nuts were removed. I pounded on it for a bit and then decided to spray some Kroil penetrating oil on it and walk away. Came back after 10 minutes and the axle pulled right out. Now on to the right side.

Dennis B.

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tirnipgreen Silver Member Ryals Cheek
Ellijay, GA, USA   USA
1965 Triumph TR4 "YANG"
I think the question is...did you unbolt the 4 bolts of the yoke right at the diff so that both ujounts and the half shaft will slide out of the big hole in the trailing arm as one unit...? Did the half shaft separate when you pulled the hub out from the left side...? Then you would still have to unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the yoke onto the flange of the differential for that side. Generally, the assembly comes out as a unit.

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steve346 Steve Ludeker
Suwanee, GA, USA   USA
If anyone needs those replacement axles, I have several sets that I got on a quantity deal. 95 for a pair of axles, new, plus shipping. Will help to pay for the hub puller I bought, could not find one locally. In process of rebuilding hubs, I know, can of worms.--steve

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Fogspawn, CA, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Machine"
guess i wuz lucky when my left rear hub went south,
both right and left hub/shaft spline assy pulled thru easy once TA 6 nuts were off...
the left rear bearing was fried, 21 years idleness...
replaced with goodparts, what I call short hub assemblies... should have gone
whole hog... but dint need to. this trouble removing hubs, splines... a killer...
other than fusion or the mentioned maybe locknut ... should come apart with
no real spartan effort... hope you achieve it... could be position of TA... jack it up some or down, keep trying...
this no help, sorry, I read stories frustration and scratch my bald head...
yet will say, stel and aluminum like to marry hard... be careful but firm with mallets, chemicals, prybaars
but that possible locknut , collar and set screw bolt inboard... look carefully for it... might be there.
not on my october 74 all factory original...
regards
wes

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ng19delta Avatar
ng19delta Scott Roberts
Merchantville, NJ, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Gypsy Rose T..."
All else fails, use C-4. But it is messy.

Scott

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