The all-new Front Page News Feed is now live   Read the announcement
TRExp

TR6 Tech Forum

Temperature compensators

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

NHinNC Avatar
NHinNC Larry C
Greensboro, NC, USA   USA
The consensus here seems to be it is probably not the temp compensator, so I figured I'd look elsewhere. The car runs great until it is VERY well warmed, so then, as I stated in my last comment, how about a coil? The coil is hot. How hot? and how hot does a good one get? I don't know. So, I measured the resistance. It is a Lucas Sport coil. The resistance is 3 ohms. Oops, should be 1.5 ohms. In the previous life, the coil was replaced, and the 12V wire from the starter was cut at the coil. This would lead me to believe the past owner and/or mechanic did not understand. I have a 1.5 Ohm coil that came in a box with my other car, so I am going to try that.



1976 TR6 Mimosa Yellow - not original
Purchased July 2015

. Hide this ad & support a small business by becoming a Gold Supporting Member
Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
POW Peter Wirth
HEBRON, NH - New Hampshire, USA   USA
These things are really pretty simple. With the plastic cover off put them both in a pan of hot water, does not have to be boiling, just hot. The by-metallic blade works pretty quickly so in about 30 seconds take them both out. They will be open to some degree. As they cool compare closing rates of the tapered plug. Push on the back of them and observe when they close. Set them to seat at the same time and that will equal the same temp. Now you can decide whether they are at the right temp or not. I find an initial setting that see's the little lock-nut down about .5mm from flush just about right. - Pete

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
ed.h Ed Hollingsworth
Omaha, NE, USA   USA
Larry--

The coil should be 1.5 ohms IF the ballast resistance is still in place. If someone replaced the coil with a 3 ohm unit, it's possible that they removed the ballast.

Ed

. Hide this ad & support a small business by becoming a Gold Supporting Member
Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
NHinNC Avatar
NHinNC Larry C
Greensboro, NC, USA   USA
In reply to # 1601308 by ed.h Larry--

The coil should be 1.5 ohms IF the ballast resistance is still in place. If someone replaced the coil with a 3 ohm unit, it's possible that they removed the ballast.

Ed

Resistor wire in place.



1976 TR6 Mimosa Yellow - not original
Purchased July 2015

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
NHinNC Avatar
NHinNC Larry C
Greensboro, NC, USA   USA
In reply to # 1601300 by POW These things are really pretty simple. With the plastic cover off put them both in a pan of hot water, does not have to be boiling, just hot. The by-metallic blade works pretty quickly so in about 30 seconds take them both out. They will be open to some degree. As they cool compare closing rates of the tapered plug. Push on the back of them and observe when they close. Set them to seat at the same time and that will equal the same temp. Now you can decide whether they are at the right temp or not. I find an initial setting that see's the little lock-nut down about .5mm from flush just about right. - Pete

As I previously stated, they do indeed work. My issue was the sloppiness.



1976 TR6 Mimosa Yellow - not original
Purchased July 2015

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, OR, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR7 Drophead "The Great Pumpkin"
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1601318 by NHinNC
In reply to # 1601308 by ed.h Larry--

The coil should be 1.5 ohms IF the ballast resistance is still in place. If someone replaced the coil with a 3 ohm unit, it's possible that they removed the ballast.

Ed

Resistor wire in place.

That means that you had the worst of both worlds; The 3 ohm coil expects to see a full 12 volts across it when the engine is running, but instead will get 6-9 volts, so your spark is weak when the car is running. It is even weaker when the car is starting since the wire from the starter solenoid is cut and the coil will therefore see something like 4 volts when the engine is cranking. Probably about as effective as using a flint and steel to start the car. eye popping smiley

<sigh> It amazes me the ham fisted things owners do to their cars and then wonder why they run like crap.

Larry - take heart, lad. You are finding things and fixing them. Trust me, eventually when you undo the damage done by previous owners, the car will run very sweetly. I loved the sound and feel of my TR6 when it was well sorted. It sounded like a baby Ferrari.

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, frame off restoration, complete.
1980 Vermilion TR7 Sprint replica, in progress.

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
NHinNC Avatar
NHinNC Larry C
Greensboro, NC, USA   USA
Replaced the coil with an oldie but good one that came in a box of parts, 1.5 Ohms. Car runs very sweet when moving. Let is sit and idle afterwards, and it will then stumble at idle. If I give it gas, there is no issue. At one point, it stalled, and gas came out of the vent. So, I took off the carbs, and there we junk in the bowls. I must not have cleaned the lines adequately. After reassembly, I still have the stumble at hot issue.



1976 TR6 Mimosa Yellow - not original
Purchased July 2015

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
NHinNC Avatar
NHinNC Larry C
Greensboro, NC, USA   USA
88 octane e15 might be the issue. I will see if I can siphon the tank, and put in ethanol free. I bought 88 at Sheetz without researching.

Also, I did not do the 'pop the gas tank cap' trick. Although it seems that it is when the engine is hot, it takes time, and if the tank is not ventilating properly, it takes time.



1976 TR6 Mimosa Yellow - not original
Purchased July 2015



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-11 10:17 PM by NHinNC.

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
NHinNC Avatar
NHinNC Larry C
Greensboro, NC, USA   USA
Ethanol free gas, same issue. No evident problem with tank venting either. I am at a loss.

Enclosing a pic of my engine compartment. Not helpful for this issue, but a pic nonetheless



1976 TR6 Mimosa Yellow - not original
Purchased July 2015


Attachments:
EngineCompartment.jpg    77.1 KB
EngineCompartment.jpg

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
skootch13 Avatar
skootch13 Aaron K
Cincinnati, OH, USA   USA
The problem you are looking to cure is a rough idle, correct?



1972 Sapphire Blue TR6

1959 (Registered '60) TR3 TS61635 L

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
LFMTR4 Avatar
LFMTR4 Lou Mijares
Scottsboro, AL, USA   USA
What is that cylinder near the driver’s wing and PDWA? A fuel filter?

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
Fogspawn, CA, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Machine"
and to the left of that seeming filter... that fat canister with plug in top? what is that?
coil? different engine bays, different years, all kinds variations....

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
I see that your # 1 plug wire is at about 1 o'clock rather than the traditional 7 o'clock position in the distributor cap, which can work just fine if the firing order is followed; so I wouldn't mind seeing a picture of your distributor so that I could trace the firing order....unless you're absolutely sure you have it right.



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
NHinNC Avatar
NHinNC Larry C
Greensboro, NC, USA   USA
I hope I am answering all questions
Yes, a rough/ stumbling idle when hot. I am now convinced that it is electrical. Every time I touch the cap, rotor, I get problems. I have ordered a new cap, rotor and coil.
Fuel filter on wheel well, Gold Lucas "sport" coil to the left of that, on the engine. Wrong model - this is a 3 Ohm, needs to be 1.5.



1976 TR6 Mimosa Yellow - not original
Purchased July 2015

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
Darth V8R Avatar
Darth V8R Vance Navarrette
Beaverton, OR, USA   USA
1980 Triumph TR7 Drophead "The Great Pumpkin"
1980 Triumph TR8 "Wedgie"
In reply to # 1601399 by NHinNC Replaced the coil with an oldie but good one that came in a box of parts, 1.5 Ohms. Car runs very sweet when moving. Let is sit and idle afterwards, and it will then stumble at idle. If I give it gas, there is no issue. At one point, it stalled, and gas came out of the vent. So, I took off the carbs, and there we junk in the bowls. I must not have cleaned the lines adequately. After reassembly, I still have the stumble at hot issue.

Your temp compensators are (still?) misadjusted.

The gas coming out of the vent was due to a sticking float, unrelated to the hot idle.

With the engine stone cold, remove the the compensator covers, and adjust them until they are just barely closed, i.e. the plastic plug is resting gently on its seat. That will get you in the ballpark.

If your mixture baseline is rich, it will aggravate the hot idle problem, so make sure your spark plug tips are a light tan color. If they are black, the compensators will not be able be able correct the mixture sufficiently when the engine is hot, and you will still have the problem.

Vance



1980 Platinum Metallic TR8, frame off restoration, complete.
1980 Vermilion TR7 Sprint replica, in progress.

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
. Hide this ad & support a small business by becoming a Gold Supporting Member

To add your reply, or post your own questions




Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster