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stutter on acceleration

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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
That "110" would be the proper 'sports coil' for a ballasted ignition, which it appears you have, Keith.
If you have a VOM meter, there is a confirmative test for a ballasted ignition, but your car came with a ballasted ignition and the current wiring to the coil is the way the ballasted ignition fed voltage to the coil.
But if you want to hook up the VOM and check the voltage, I'll be glad to describe how to do it.



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com

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SaveBluth Avatar
SaveBluth Keith Briscoe
Austin, TX, USA   USA
Thanks Ken. I recall seeing the Lucas label on the coil, so guess I assume it is the Sports Coil. Am planning to go through and replace a few of the inexpensive but likely old and possibly faulty ignition components. If I don't have to buy/replace the $33 coil, I won't.

Right now, I'm planning to get the points, rotor, condenser. Should I do cap and anything else? I'll get help to check/set timing first - adjust and see if that helps. Then replace those above parts. Does that seem like a good plan?

Keith

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
If it were me, I'd send the distributor off the Advanced Distributors; let Jeff set it up to function like new with the parts he supplies.
I've sent 3 distributors off to him and have not been disappointed, except for the down time.
At the very least I recommend buying this from Jeff: http://advanceddistributors.mybisi.com/product/points-assembly-for-22d-23d-25d-and-late-dm2-lucas as well as the rotor and cap
http://advanceddistributors.mybisi.com/

Last I checked he does not sell a coil for a ballasted ignition, though.
You need that, but not necessarily the "Sports Coil" just one for a ballasted ignition.
I have a used but good Lucas DLB 102 for 5 dollars plus shipping if you want it.
http://www.retroclassiccarparts.com/lucas-ballast-resisted-coil

But getting back to the "stutter".
It's been nearly 50 years and I don't even remember which foreign car it was, but the shutter was due to a problem with the clutch. I don't even remember if it were the pressure plate or the clutch disc...but stutter (vibrate) the car did when I accelerated... Just throwing that out there..



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2015-07-15 12:11 PM by poolboy.

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SaveBluth Avatar
SaveBluth Keith Briscoe
Austin, TX, USA   USA
uh oh....you've made me think of something. I recently had to pull the transmission and replace the clutch fork pin (was getting the dreaded sticky clutch). Pin was in fact broken and after replacement, no more sticky.

But, if I recall correctly, this stutter problem only started AFTER doing that work. We did nothing to the rest of the clutch, but I wonder if the reassembly could have done something. As a reminder, this stutter only occurs after the cars warms up. And, I really think this is more of an engine miss than something not grabbing (or grabbing too much). All the other comments about fuel or spark seem to be the direction to go. Any other thoughts here?

I appreciate the guidance. I'll give Jeff at Advanced Distributors a call.

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
No, just keep slugging away..sooner or later you'll hit on it even if it's by accident.



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com

aoiaoi Avatar
aoiaoi David Reeves
Oxshott, Surrey, UK   GBR
My suggestion, I have 76 TR6 US Spec, one of the last made.....

If it has been standing for more than a week then water settling in the fuel has a massive effect on the first 2-3 kilometers of driving

There is a lot of water in supermarket fuel .......if I start it one day after the other then no problem at all

As regards hesitant starting on first turn then, choke full out, flatten the accelerator and then let it up again, choke full out (check it is ) and it will start

Dr David

barry s Avatar
barry s Silver Member Barry Stoll
Alexandria, VA, USA   USA
1972 MG MGB GT
1974 MG MGB
1976 Triumph TR6
1980 MG MGB
In post #2, Ken suggested that the timing is suspect when hesitation under load is experienced. When I started reading this thread today, timing was my 1st thought, and there was Ken so stating.

In situations like this I always encourage 1st addressing the 'easy' suspect adjustment or replacement. IMHO too often people begin either with fuel or by replacing most of the ignition components. In the case of carbs, they should be left to last. In the case of parts, you never find out what was the actual cause.

Other than as a starting point, timing should be set according to vacuum or road tuned to a degree or two back from that timing causing pinging under load.

jordan k Avatar
jordan k Jordan Kurtin
Toronto, ON, Canada   CAN
Keith I have been also having that issue , It turned out to be a cracked wire in the cluster of wires coming off the + side of the battery, it was grounding out in the wire loop attached to the fire wall just below the terminal . It was one of the smaller wires. Its worth a look, I went threw most of the ideas that have been given here . Hope you find it Jordan

Marksg1 Avatar
Marksg1 Mark Greenbaum
Evanston, IL, USA   USA
1976 Triumph TR6 "Nigel"
Keith you are getting good advice, start with the simple things. A failing condensor, even if new, can cause stuttering and is inexpensive to replace. Check timing, points gap/dwell angle, try moving the timing. After that don't discount a faulty or leaking coil that loses inductance therfor power when hot - something I had. I'd eliminate all ignition components before moving to bigger things like the clutch or even carbs.



I love the smell of hydrocarbons in the morning.

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
Y'all..check the date of Keith's post..it was nearly 3 years ago.



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com

Marksg1 Avatar
Marksg1 Mark Greenbaum
Evanston, IL, USA   USA
1976 Triumph TR6 "Nigel"
Doh!



I love the smell of hydrocarbons in the morning.

Dudley1675 Avatar
Dudley1675 Dan Dudley
Douglas, MA, USA   USA
Having the hesitation problem with a heavy load at highway speeds as well. Changed the fuel pump, spark plugs & the coil. It had an electronic ignition already when I purchased it last year.
1974 TR6.
Know any good mechanics here in Massachusetts? I live in the south central part of Mass.

tirebiter Jeff Garber
Dighton, MA, USA   USA
I predict you will be deluged with reasons why the carbs need to be rebuilt. After that you might even be treated to an explanation of how to set the ignition timing for the best idle. At the very least, you may receive a directive to get the distributor rebuilt.

I'm not sure any of the above will cure your problem. It appears the original poster found help elsewhere or gave up.

Aftermarket electronic ignition systems are notorious in causing spark problems under certain conditions.

Maybe you would do well to start another thread entitled "hesitates above 55 mph".

Dudley1675 Avatar
Dudley1675 Dan Dudley
Douglas, MA, USA   USA
Will do, thanks!

74tr6NY Gary Ganoung
Binghamton, NY, USA   USA
I too, experienced a "burp" hesitation on acceleration in my 74TR6. I finally found someone with experience in Stromberg carbs. He cleaned and rebuilt the carbs, "adjusted" the vacuum lines (as in removal of some). He tuned and balanced them. I now have stronger acceleration and no hesitation. I haven't driven it enough in warm weather to be 100% sure of the cure, but so far so good.
He told me that there is some play in the distributor shaft and that would need to be replaced as some point in the future. Anyone have experience with this?

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