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Stuck Brake Adjuster

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dk pony Avatar
dk pony David C
MT Carmel, TN, USA   USA
1972 Triumph TR6 "Melvin"
I am doing the resto on the rear of the car now and have encountered frozen brake adjusters. Both of the adjusters seem to be stuck pretty solid. I am at risk of rounding off the adjuster heads if I go at it with any more force. At this point the 4 points are still sharp and not rounded.
I have soaked the adjusters in a variety of things, Evapo-rust, Transmission fluid and oil to try to free them.
Is there something I am missing here?

Thanks

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Krom Avatar
Krom Paul K
San Rafael, CA, USA   USA
David- you might take the adjuster off the backing plate and soak it, then put some heat on it with a propane torch.

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
David,
Use some brake cleaner to remove any grease or oil and then squirt liberally with Evaporust every couple of hours. Try to hit the head of the adjuster straight on with a hammer just enough to jar it and repeat the Evaporust. It will take awhile, but it should let go after a day or so.
Good luck, Rut

Edit: what temp are you working at? Evaporust, phosphoric acid, etc. work much better and faster in 70*+ temps and neither will penetrate oil to do their job.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-01 08:00 PM by Perdido.

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dk pony Avatar
dk pony David C
MT Carmel, TN, USA   USA
1972 Triumph TR6 "Melvin"
Thanks for the advice.

The adjusters are removed from the backing plate, and so is everything else on the frame.

Both adjusters soaked in Evapo-Rust for 2 days, then oil for a couple of days and lastly transmission fluid. I don't want to have to buy new ones so I am being careful to not round them off.

Today I left them soaking in Evap-Rust for another night. I will try tapping them with a hammer tomorrow.

I brought them in the house so they will be around 70 tonight while soaking. The shop is cooler unless I have the heater going and with the price of kerosene these days I only keep it 60 or so when I am out there.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-01 08:20 PM by dk pony.

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
Mine were once stuck, full of years and years of brake dust, not rust.



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
David, if the threads are messed up and they are a fine thread, you can buy them at BPNW for $10.25 each, not too bad.
Or I will see if I have a couple.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

dk pony Avatar
dk pony David C
MT Carmel, TN, USA   USA
1972 Triumph TR6 "Melvin"
how do the adjusters come apart? do the parts that contact the shoes slide out?( I think they are called the tappets?)
I've looked and seen pictures of the adjusters once they are apart but no real info on the actual disassembly.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-01 09:25 PM by dk pony.

LFMTR4 Avatar
LFMTR4 Lou Mijares
Scottsboro, AL, USA   USA
Perhaps this will help

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Rear/Rear.

I would think that because of the dissimilar metals heat will loosen the housing around the steel screw. The sides just slide in but the same should apply with the heat.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-01 09:39 PM by LFMTR4.

titanic Berry P
Albany, OR, USA   USA
+1 for a propane torch. If you manage to get them apart, use some anti-seize when re-assembling. The steel screw and aluminum body tend to grow together.
Berry

dk pony Avatar
dk pony David C
MT Carmel, TN, USA   USA
1972 Triumph TR6 "Melvin"
ok. I'll give them a good bath first so as not to set anything I have been soaking them in on fire, then hit them with a torch tomorrow.

trrdster Avatar
trrdster Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA   USA
David, the bolt with the slotted head is screwed out the middle of the adjuster, it doesn't come out the back.
The little tappets are what's setting on the shoes, the triangle cone has flats, as you adjust the brake (turn) it pushes out the deeper it goes into the adjuster, it clicks as the corners go out and falls back in to place. Do not leave it on the high part of the adjuster. .
You might want to start another thread if you have trouble getting them right.



Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)

dk pony Avatar
dk pony David C
MT Carmel, TN, USA   USA
1972 Triumph TR6 "Melvin"
Thank you for the description.

So just to make sure I have it right I need to turn the adjuster IN to push the tappets out and to remove the adjuster screw?
Should the Tappets just kinda fall out if there are no shoes to hold them in? it would seem the tappets are pretty well stuck also.

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Yes, the "tappets" should just fall out. Usually, they are very stuck.

Using an appropriate 8-point socket (not 12, not 6) will greatly reduce any tendency to round off the square head. My experience is that it will twist off rather than round.

On my tractors (which use a very similar adjuster mechanism), I actually used an impact gun on the 8 point socket. They are unfortunately all steel, so heat didn't do much.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L Once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

barcalude Dave B
Baldwinsville, NY, USA   USA
I also hate to give up on trying to save parts, but maybe it’s time to just replace the adjusters with new ones....they aren’t very expensive. And they’re shiny and a lot less aggravating.

Uberxy Avatar
Uberxy Steve Fox
Va, Charlottesville, USA   USA
Mine were salvageable but iirc new ones were remarkably inexpensive.



SR
73 TR6
86 930

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