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Spray glue and adhesive for Carpet and Trim

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mikegt4 Mike D
Oxford, OH, USA   USA
If using big box store 3M spray adhesive be sure to use #99. The cheaper #77 will fail at higher temps like sitting out in the sun during the summer. You can stick the upholstery back in position but it will come lose again when reheated. Sadly I say this from experience. Spend the extra $ for #99.

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ArtL Avatar
ArtL Art Liefke
Kings Park, NY, USA   USA
In reply to # 1566448 by mikegt4 If using big box store 3M spray adhesive be sure to use #99...

Don't you mean the 3M #90? I don't see a #99 available.


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Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
I’ve been using Weldwood/DAP hi temp for years and it has never let loose. Once you clean everything regardless of the glue you use make sure it’s compatible with the paint you’re attaching the vinyl to...sometimes the solvent in the glue will dissolve the paint. Use the Hi Temp with a Preval sprayer and Bob’s your uncle!

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Wire wheel guy Jim Smith
Baton Rouge, LA, USA   USA
This long and older thread is one of my favorites, not from a glue selection standpoint, but for help in installing the vinyl cover over the wheel wells.
I, too, had a bad experience with my previous TR6 trying to stretch the replacement vinyl over the wheel wells. I finally got it, but with too many imperfections. I agree with Desert TR that all the written instructions available are difficult at best.
I just finished installing them on my current restoration and used Jim’s advice about leaving a gap between the foam pad for the piping. It worked beautifully, so here is how I did it.
Start with the masking tape where your seam will be and make sure it is as straight as possible for your guide.
Cut the top foam piece about 5.25” and glue it down using the masking tape as a guide and just going a few inches at a time making sure it is straight. It will mold smoothly if you start at the top and smooth it out as you go.
I then inverted my vinyl cover (mine is from Bobby Danielson’s panel kit with the piping) and measured the seam area, which just short of 1/2”.
Then place the bottom pad allowing 1/2” evenly all the way down where your seam will be. That leaves you a 1/2” space between the top and side padding which is the metal of the wheel well showing.
I then used masking tape along both sides of the gap to make sure I did not get any glue on the padding, then applied glue inside the gap. You can determine where the vinyl cover has the best place to start by moving it along the seam area.
So, now just glue the sewn seam excess on the cover only, taking care not to get it on the rest of the cover.
Four hands here is helpful, but simply glue the inside of the vinyl cover seam to the gap all the way down and let it dry. I used a commercial glue I bought from a local upholstery shop. They poured a quart from their 5 gallon drum and charged me $10. It is very easy to brush on and you can let both sides completely dry for the best adhesion.
You can now stretch one side or the other very smoothly as the,seam holds it in the straight center position firmly. Just glue the edges and it’s done. The extra advantage is with the 1/2” seam inside the gap, the sewn portion is the height of the padding and the piping looks like it is just sitting on the top.
Pretty hard to mess up even for a rookie.

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