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Spacers & Door Gaps, of course...

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ng19delta Avatar
ng19delta Scott Roberts
Merchantville, NJ, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Gypsy Rose T..."
I figured I better maker this a separate thread, before I clog up the "What I did today" thread...

Anyway, I am attempting to get the rear door gap straightened up: The top is about 1", the bottom about 1.4", and the front gap is perfect...



I am currently mucking about with the spacers: current configuration is trapezoids have a single metal plate, two rubbers: differential crossmember has single spacer each side, rear has two spacers each side... Previously, I had two metal/two rubber at the traps, two spacers, one insulator at the diffy x-member, and one at the rear (each side on all)

Moving the extras did nothing...

Anyone with experiencing setting these up close enough to Merchantville, NJ to swing by & help an increasingly frustrated restorer?

Thanks!
Scott

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Desert TR Avatar
Desert TR Jim P
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
Scott,

I'm far from an expert on thins, but I remember you had to do extensive rebuilding on your frame. I don't know if you check for trueness afterwards, but it appears the rear is angled down. Rather than fooling around with spacers at various points, may I make a suggestion?

Attach the body to the frame in the front back to the "A" pillar. Put bolts through the rear mounting points to keep the side to side alignment, but do not use spacers or nuts to clamp them. The rear spring cross member is probably the strongest rear mount so concentrate there. Use wood shingles (the wedged ones used to set door frame gaps) to separate the body and frame until the top of the door is gapped properly. This should give you the thickness you need at all the rear mounts.

Jim

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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
"They say" that putting more spacers in the 3 rear body mounts will close an upper rear door gap.
That's the 2 points at the rear of the frame and the one below boot floor, around the spare tire hook.



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com

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dsixnero Avatar
dsixnero Dan Colanero
Westville, NJ, USA   USA
Scott, befor welding the bottom edge of the rocker you must bend it downward to match the profile of the fender.The proper distance between the top of the B-post and the A-post should be secured with a brace before welding the foot of the B-post to the sill,of coarse the bottom distance should also be correct.This ,off-plumb angle of the B-post will dictate the shims in the rear tub.The braces must remain until the body is secured. Dan

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diogenes Avatar
diogenes Silver Member Bob Tlapa
Lombard, IL, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Money Pit"
Just my 2 cents worth, but I've been told that gap you are seeing is a result of the frame sagging due to rust-through. I looked a 6 last year and both sides were like what you show. I crawled underneath and saw numerous places where the frame was rusted through. A guy in our club said that Triumph did not put proper drainage in the frame and especially in the "bow tie" area. He's done multiple body off restorations and has seen this problem.

The clown selling his rust bucket said it was a result of people loading his luggage rack with two big coolers filled with ice and beer and it pulled the door jamb down, hence the fender went with it. Hmmm...I wonder what turnip truck I fell off of.

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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
I believe diogenes meant "Tee Shirt" or cruciform...not "bow tie" when referring to that particular part of the frame. at least I've never heard it referred to as 'bow tie'



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com

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ng19delta Avatar
ng19delta Scott Roberts
Merchantville, NJ, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Gypsy Rose T..."
In reply to # 1319505 by dsixnero Scott, befor welding the bottom edge of the rocker you must bend it downward to match the profile of the fender.The proper distance between the top of the B-post and the A-post should be secured with a brace before welding the foot of the B-post to the sill,of coarse the bottom distance should also be correct.This ,off-plumb angle of the B-post will dictate the shims in the rear tub.The braces must remain until the body is secured. Dan

I replaced the rear of both B-posts, and have been wondering about that- I may try and relieve the b-post- cut a diagonal slot across the rear of each, near the bottom, set the door gaps & then weld them back up... I tried adjusting the door gap yesterday with all the rear and cockpit bolts removed, and using a ratchet strap, but it did not budge, and I do not believe bolt tightening will do anything, either... I am still trying to set the shims, as well: I am going to start on a shimless frame- just the pads in place, and work my way up... I could use some help though...

I took today off, however- I needed the mental break!

Scott

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tr6easyrider Avatar
tr6easyrider Joe S
Riverside, CA, USA   USA
Scott
Here are some measurements I did when I replaced my rear deck panel. Did not do a frame off,
wish I had. The figures 4' 6 15/16" and 4' 7 7/16" are from the original panel and the 54 15/16"/
55 13/32" are the replacement panel, from the ashtray rear edge. The diagonal measurement is from the hole for the
windshield post . 5' 5 3/16".
Joe


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ng19delta Avatar
ng19delta Scott Roberts
Merchantville, NJ, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Gypsy Rose T..."
In reply to # 1319592 by tr6easyrider Scott
Here are some measurements I did when I replaced my rear deck panel. Did not do a frame off,
wish I had. The figures 4' 6 15/16" and 4' 7 7/16" are from the original panel and the 54 15/16"/
55 13/32" are the replacement panel, from the ashtray rear edge. The diagonal measurement is from the hole for the
windshield post . 5' 5 3/16".
Joe

Thanks, Joe- I'll check them tomorrow: Do you happen to have the measurement across the door openings, from the point on the A post to the point on the B post? (I am referring to the sheet metal point under the fuzzy door trim, closest two points on the opening)

Thanks!
Scott

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tr6easyrider Avatar
tr6easyrider Joe S
Riverside, CA, USA   USA
Sorry Scott, I don't have those measurements.

Joe



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-09-27 03:41 PM by tr6easyrider.

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Scot1966 Avatar
Scot1966 Scot Bailey
Lebanon, CT, USA   USA
Scott,
From the front corner of the cowl to the top edge of the B post is 39 1/2" on both sides of my tub.


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ng19delta Avatar
ng19delta Scott Roberts
Merchantville, NJ, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Gypsy Rose T..."
In reply to # 1319637 by Scot1966 Scott,
From the front corner of the cowl to the top edge of the B post is 39 1/2" on both sides of my tub.

Thanks for the pics- I can use that nicely to check- got both ends referenced! I'll check tomorrow(weather permitting- I have to move the WWII Dodge out just to get to the car, and the Weather Channel is giving a % for rain...)

Scott

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diogenes Avatar
diogenes Silver Member Bob Tlapa
Lombard, IL, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Money Pit"
Ken, Ya got me on that one. smileys with beer You're right! Hey, Gimme a break. I'm old and forgetful. Still a piece of clothing, no? Next time I go to Biloxi for shrimp, I'll swing over and buy you a beer or whatever.

Bob

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ng19delta Avatar
ng19delta Scott Roberts
Merchantville, NJ, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Gypsy Rose T..."
In reply to # 1319520 by diogenes Just my 2 cents worth, but I've been told that gap you are seeing is a result of the frame sagging due to rust-through. I looked a 6 last year and both sides were like what you show. I crawled underneath and saw numerous places where the frame was rusted through. A guy in our club said that Triumph did not put proper drainage in the frame and especially in the "bow tie" area. He's done multiple body off restorations and has seen this problem.

The clown selling his rust bucket said it was a result of people loading his luggage rack with two big coolers filled with ice and beer and it pulled the door jamb down, hence the fender went with it. Hmmm...I wonder what turnip truck I fell off of.

All the rust in the frame has been removed & repaired, including new cruciform plates, and some sections of frame replaced... There is no sag in the frame: I think it is going to come down to a body issue to deal with... As to drains, he probably has a point...

Scott

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ng19delta Avatar
ng19delta Scott Roberts
Merchantville, NJ, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Gypsy Rose T..."
In reply to # 1319641 by ng19delta
In reply to # 1319637 by Scot1966 Scott,
From the front corner of the cowl to the top edge of the B post is 39 1/2" on both sides of my tub.

Thanks for the pics- I can use that nicely to check- got both ends referenced! I'll check tomorrow(weather permitting- I have to move the WWII Dodge out just to get to the car, and the Weather Channel is giving a % for rain...)

Scott

Mine comes out at 39 7/8"... A little out...

Thanks!
Scott

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