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Spacers & Door Gaps, of course...

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Scot1966 Avatar
Scot1966 Scot Bailey
Lebanon, CT, USA   USA
In reply to # 1326650 by David DPS Of course part of the rear frame shows. However, the spot that matters and the spot that Williams is referring to is the bottom of the frame as far aft as it goes. The very end of the frame where you can look inside the frame.
The end point closest to the bumper. The bottom where the frame ends.
This has nothing to do with seeing the rear of the frame further forward when squatting down.

If your eyesight is parallel to the ground the valance should be below the rear most point of the bottom of the frame. Since the rear legs slope upwards, obviously most of the rear frame is visible a few inches further forward.


Hi David, sorry I wasn't clear. I did mean the rearmost part of the frame always shows when you squat down. The furthest back, or the rear " tip". ( not the part that bends down as it approaches the differential ) The valance is always slightly higher than the frame. At least that's been my experience with all that I've seen.

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David DPS Avatar
David DPS David S
Louisville, KY, USA   USA
Scott
The valance/ frame position is adjusted without shims until the door gap is right. Since there are no aluminum shims between the whole body and the whole frame at that point in rectifying of the hogged frame the valance will be lower than the lower rear corner of the frame when the gap is right. Williams expects that after the body and frame are reunited with the spacers that further adjusting will be needed.

I have attached an eBay photo of a rear bumper lower bracket. The bottom hole is bolted to the bottom of the frame and passes just below the rear valance (AFTER you add at least one aluminum shim back to the rear mount). It is so close that I bet you cannot bolt it to the frame until AFTER you reach the step where you have put at least one shim on every mount for the whole body. The space between the lower rear bumper bracket and the valance will be in the range of 1/2 aluminum ship to 3 shims. On my 76 TR6 it is one shim.


Attachments:
rear bumper bracket.jpg    17.3 KB
rear bumper bracket.jpg

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ng19delta Avatar
ng19delta Scott Roberts
Merchantville, NJ, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Gypsy Rose T..."
That distance they specify looks to be at the narrow point of the frame, just forward of the differential.. I haven't had a chance to pull the Dodge out & measure(I've been sick for a week)- Can anyone confirm this? If so, it means I'll have to tear apart the rear to do it... No biggie, but still...

Scott

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David DPS Avatar
David DPS David S
Louisville, KY, USA   USA
Scott,
I hope you are feeling better and that it was not too serious.
I was curious where Williams was recommending the frame be attacked. I first hooked a tape in one car on the fender at the front edge of the cut out for the rear light assembly. It came to the very rear of the floor pan. That seemed odd. So I waited until I had a chance to check out a bare frame at my old office. The attached photo was taken with the carpenter's tape started at the very end of the frame. 50 inches comes to the middle of the section for the trailing arm attachments. That is absurd!

Maybe Williams got the unit of measurement mixed up. 50 centimeters might be more likely. That would be 19.68 inches. What ever the recommended distance should have been I would consider attacking the frame immediately AFTER the rear differential bracket - that is where most of the upward slope of the frame starts anyhow. Can you get the door gap right by just adjusting only the shims at the cross tube and the rear two bolts?
If you can get the gap right without loosening up the rear shelf bolts up more than the equivalent of one extra shim you might get away with increasing the bend just after the rear diff bracket.


Dave



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2015-11-08 10:53 PM by David DPS.


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ng19delta Avatar
ng19delta Scott Roberts
Merchantville, NJ, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Gypsy Rose T..."
In reply to # 1328213 by David DPS Scott,
I hope you are feeling better and that it was not too serious.
I was curious where Williams was recommending the frame be attacked. I first hooked a tape in one car on the fender at the front edge of the cut out for the rear light assembly. It came to the very rear of the floor pan. That seemed odd. So I waited until I had a chance to check out a bare frame at my old office. The attached photo was taken with the carpenter's tape started at the very end of the frame. 50 inches comes to the middle of the section for the trailing arm attachments. That is absurd!

Maybe Williams got the unit of measurement mixed up. 50 centimeters might be more likely. That would be 19.68 inches. What ever the recommended distance should have been I would consider attacking the frame immediately AFTER the rear differential bracket - that is where most of the upward slope of the frame starts anyhow. Can you get the door gap right by just adjusting only the shims at the cross tube and the rear two bolts?
If you can get the gap right without loosening up the rear shelf bolts up more than the equivalent of one extra shim you might get away with increasing the bend just after the rear diff bracket.


Dave

Dave- Thanks for measuring: I have not had a chance yet to get to trying the repair as described, but was estimating the distance to be about where your tape puts it- and I agree, it seems to be an absurd location! I believe you are probably correct in your estimation of location, and about where I am planning to make my cuts... Your first estimate, which is at the end of the floor pan, may be right: That would put it just forward of the rear differential, at the narrow part of the frame- but, to do this, I need to remove the drive axles, differential and swing arms (& springs) and this would be much more labor intensive...

The gaps at the ends of the frame are between 1" & 1-1/2" too big: I would need a stack of at least 5 shims each side: Additionally, this throws the rear bumper so far out of whack, it would be unusable: so I have to go with the cut & weld method... I'll probably be putting this off for another two weeks- I have a few days off at Thanksgiving, and am planning to take care of this then(weather permitting me to move the WWII Dodge truck outside)

Scott

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Zip960 Avatar
Zip960 Zip S
Panhandle, FL, USA   USA
Scott,

Have you solved the dilemma? Many of us may be in the same boat.

.........I didn't have to remove the two screws on the rear seat mount and only added two aluminum shims on the left side and two aluminum shims on the right frame ends. That got the door gaps right. Trying to figure out, I'll need to cut the frame like Williams book suggests.

Haven't pulled the body off the frame yet.

D

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ng19delta Avatar
ng19delta Scott Roberts
Merchantville, NJ, USA   USA
1974 Triumph TR6 "Gypsy Rose T..."
In reply to # 1602133 by Zip960 Scott,

Have you solved the dilemma? Many of us may be in the same boat.

.........I didn't have to remove the two screws on the rear seat mount and only added two aluminum shims on the left side and two aluminum shims on the right frame ends. That got the door gaps right. Trying to figure out, I'll need to cut the frame like Williams book suggests.

Haven't pulled the body off the frame yet.

D

Long since cured- This thread is over 3 years old! I saw you found the other thread... winking smiley

Scott

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