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rebuilding front suspension

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GDL412 Garry Loomis
Granville, NY, USA   USA
I want to put new bushings in . I know it's a knuckle breaking job .anybody have any tips for me and know what I I'll need for tools . thanks Garry

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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
It wouldn't hurt to check this out, Garry.
https://www.scribd.com/doc/842185/Front-Suspension-Rebuild



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com

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Uberxy Avatar
Uberxy Steve Fox
Va, Charlottesville, USA   USA
I just did the upper and lower A arm bushings last week or so. It’s not so bad but it was time consuming; about three hours a side for me, a shade tree mechanic. Most of the bushings I pressed out with a C clamp and a large socket, though a few I did in the vise with two sockets. I used split bushings for reassembly. Now I have new bushings, springs, shocks, ball joints, rod ends, sway bar links, all new nylocks, Green Stuff pads, and braided brake lines. I’d like to think I am done with the front and rear suspension but you never know...

One thing I noticed is that someone neglected to put cotter pins in the castle nuts on the lower trunions. One side had loosened enough for some slack to appear (eye popping smiley). It’s fixed now and no more mysterious clunk on that side when coming to a stop.



SR
73 TR6
86 930



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-13 03:10 PM by Uberxy.

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stevejahr Steve Jahr
Grass Valley, CA, USA   USA
In reply to # 1601864 by Uberxy ...One thing I noticed is that someone neglected to put cotter pins in the castle nuts on the lower trunions. One side had loosened enough for some slack to appear (eye popping smiley). It’s fixed now and no more mysterious clunk on that side when coming to a stop.

EEEK!

I got the religion on cotter pins in front suspension many years ago when I neglected to put one on the upper ball joint on a TR3. If you are not familiar, on the TR3 the ball joint cup has a large bolt coming out the side and going through the upper control arm. Lose the nut on that and the control arm disconnects from the ball joint and spindle. Mayhem then breaks loose. Serious mayhem if you are going about 90 MPH around a nice easy left hand sweeper in the dark when it lets go. There wasn't a straight panel on that car *anywhere* after that little flight eye popping smiley

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BigChill Avatar
BigChill Big Chill
Norwood, MA, USA   USA
Buy (or build your own) spring compressor. This makes removing the springs a LOT safer.

And you still need to be careful.



Big Chill

'75 TR6 slowly coming back from the dead...

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BigChill Avatar
BigChill Big Chill
Norwood, MA, USA   USA
The document referenced by "poolboy" is a good one.

But I have a quibble - he installs the spring and spring pan before he installs the trunnion. By installing the trunnion first, you can run the whole suspension through a "range of motion" test to find any alignment or binding issues. Essentially, you rebuild all the suspension components and then install the spring.

Also, you can re-enforce the lower inner A-arm connection points by putting a 1/4" thick piece of metal, with two holes drilled into it, on the inside of the frame attachment point. Kinda like a giant washer, but to strengthen this little bugger. And these mount points should have a strengthening kit installed. See item HG14 on this page - http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/110.php

No financial interest in this....

Have phun!!!



Big Chill

'75 TR6 slowly coming back from the dead...

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