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dk pony Avatar
dk pony David C
MT Carmel, TN, USA   USA
1972 Triumph TR6 "Melvin"
Things have seemed to be moving along quite nicely just in the last few weeks.

An assortment of parts ready to be reassembled after cleaning and powdercoating.

20190207_124037 by Firebird2, on Flickr

20190207_124021 by Firebird2, on Flickr

And the first of the suspension components go on the frame.

20190119_182730 by Firebird2, on Flickr

20190119_182709 by Firebird2, on Flickr

And just in case someone noticed the lack of the grounding strap in that list pic...

20190207_123457 by Firebird2, on Flickr

And more of the suspension being installed.

20190201_194525 by Firebird2, on Flickr

And one of the before and after of the springs although I guess it's actually an after and before because of the way I positioned the springs for the picture. I have no idea if the powdercoat will stay on but I had to give it a try.

20190202_124419 by Firebird2, on Flickr


And from here I am waiting on the spring compressor plate that my Dad is welding up for me. He is making one that will fit over the shock mount bolts on the spring plate. Going to pick it up tomorrow and hopefully get the springs in tomorrow afternoon. They are getting new rubber mounts as well.

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TriumphFan Avatar
TriumphFan Silver Member Jim S
Cumming, GA, USA   USA
1967 Triumph GT6 MkI "Cantankerous"
That looks really good. There's something about bolting on clean parts...
How painful ($) was the powder coating?



"If you didn't build it, it's not really yours"

dk pony Avatar
dk pony David C
MT Carmel, TN, USA   USA
1972 Triumph TR6 "Melvin"
Thanks.
Altogether, powder coat gun from Harbor Freight, toaster oven from Walmart, extra powder from Eastwood, high temp tape and some high temp plugs I have around 200 bucks in my powder coat setup.
Of course, I already had an 80 gallon 20CFM Ingersoll Rand compressor and blasting cabinet.
I didn't really think it would be that much durable than paint but some of the first parts I coated I took back to the sand blaster and attempted to remove it.
I normally blast at 50 psi and that wouldn't touch it. I upped it to 100 psi and it took it off but VERY slowly.

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chris Avatar
chris Platinum Member Chris Roop
Pendleton, OR, USA   USA
Will you have to ream the driveline yokes?



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dk pony Avatar
dk pony David C
MT Carmel, TN, USA   USA
1972 Triumph TR6 "Melvin"
In reply to # 1595085 by chris Will you have to ream the driveline yokes?

I assume you are talking about the U-Joint areas of the yokes? If so I have found that a quick go around with some sandpaper thins the powdercoat enough to allow the caps to go in with no problems. I didn't spray that area what you see is just residual.

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