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Metal shavings

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ACMAUI Andy Herrera
Gig Harbor, WA, USA   USA
Opened up the valve cover to check valve clearance, first time since I bought the TR. I noticed there was some slight gummy oil pockets in the corners of the inside of the casting on each end of the head on the distributor side, places that look like oil could set for a long time. I grabbed a rag and swiped it out and notice it appeared there was some small debris in the gummy oil. Pressed the rag and It looked like a 1/16 inch dark sliver. Grabbed a magnet and sure enough it jumped right onto it. I put a really bright light onto the head and started blotting oil up in a white rag and pressing it. Sure enough, more small piece that were also ferris metal. They are very dull in color and very small. the first piece I found was easily three times larger than the next largest piece. From the forum's experience, what steel parts tend to wear or fail in a manner that sheds shards that are not captured by the filter? The oil looks new, and I'm sure the previous owner changed it before putting it up for sale. Doesn't seem to burn a lot of oil, although it still seems to me like a lot more blow by then I'm use to in old cars. I'm not familiar with the ring composition on these motors. Do the rings have a high steel content, maybe the wiper rings? What parts could put oil into the head that are after the oil filter? These filings are way to big to have made it through even a cheap filter, so I'm thinking they had to originate in the rocker arm area, but I couldn't detect any obvious clues in a visual inspection.

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Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
Andy,
I don’t have an answer for you, but I would drain the oil, check the magnetic plug if you have one, pull the oil filter and cut it open (a can opener works well...something that doesn’t produce metal filings) and spread out the filter material inspecting closely for metal bits. Hopefully that will give you an idea regarding the type and possible origination of any metal bits. My WAG would be that the shavings came from the rocker assembly.
Rut

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LFMTR4 Lou Mijares
Scottsboro, AL, USA   USA
Yeah, I wouldn’t get too excited if the car is running well as there is no telling how long that has been there. For all you know it could have been from something that was repaired a while ago. If it’s on the head, I would suspect the valve train because it didn’t come through the gallery or a valve stem seal based on your description.

Just be alert next time you check the oil and look for shrapnel with a magnet in the pan and open the filter and take a look. If you are concerned and visual inspection of the valve train turns up nothing, then do a compression test.

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j007 Joseph M
Madison, OH, USA   USA
As already mentioned, I would suspect valve train also,Remove your valve cover, start the car and check that you are getting oil across valve train all the way to the front. Visual check area between rocker arm and valve top.



Joe
73 Triumph TR6

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POW Peter Wirth
HEBRON, NH - New Hampshire, USA   USA
I would start with an oil filter inspection as well. Unless you have an after market spin-on adapter there is nothing to cut open. Just remove the canister and take out the element. Oil can by-pass the filter if it has been super neglected and clogged but I would thing that unlikely. I suppose it's possible to assemble the oil filter wrong or damage an element, but one would have to work at it. You never know what a seller may do. Canister could be empty. None of these scenarios solve the source of the metal though, only that it could come from other than the valve train if the filter is compromised. - Pete

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F1000RACER Platinum Member Gary H
Alpine, CA, USA   USA
In reply to # 1600914 by ACMAUI Opened up the valve cover to check valve clearance, first time since I bought the TR. I noticed there was some slight gummy oil pockets in the corners of the inside of the casting on each end of the head on the distributor side, places that look like oil could set for a long time. I grabbed a rag and swiped it out and notice it appeared there was some small debris in the gummy oil. Pressed the rag and It looked like a 1/16 inch dark sliver. Grabbed a magnet and sure enough it jumped right onto it. I put a really bright light onto the head and started blotting oil up in a white rag and pressing it. Sure enough, more small piece that were also ferris metal. They are very dull in color and very small. the first piece I found was easily three times larger than the next largest piece. From the forum's experience, what steel parts tend to wear or fail in a manner that sheds shards that are not captured by the filter? The oil looks new, and I'm sure the previous owner changed it before putting it up for sale. Doesn't seem to burn a lot of oil, although it still seems to me like a lot more blow by then I'm use to in old cars. I'm not familiar with the ring composition on these motors. Do the rings have a high steel content, maybe the wiper rings? What parts could put oil into the head that are after the oil filter? These filings are way to big to have made it through even a cheap filter, so I'm thinking they had to originate in the rocker arm area, but I couldn't detect any obvious clues in a visual inspection.


Seen this several times before, this is typically caused by excessive wear on the bottom side of the rocker shaft. Nothing new here, this is a long known weakness.

Quick way to tell is put 2 of the rockers on their overlap. Loosen the adjuster up several turns. Try to slide the rocker on the shaft depressing the spring that keeps it centered. If it won't move at all on the shaft its likely terminal. If you can slide it then look at the underside of the shaft while doing this, use a mirror. You'll most likely see deep grooves worn into the shaft.

Remove the entire rocker assembly and ship it to Rocker Arm Specialties in Redding Ca. (find on the web) For about $200 the will completely rebuild the entire rocker assembly and bush them like Triumph should have done originally.

GH

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ACMAUI Andy Herrera
Gig Harbor, WA, USA   USA
In reply to # 1600961 by F1000RACER
In reply to # 1600914 by ACMAUI Opened up the valve cover to check valve clearance, first time since I bought the TR. I noticed there was some slight gummy oil pockets in the corners of the inside of the casting on each end of the head on the distributor side, places that look like oil could set for a long time. I grabbed a rag and swiped it out and notice it appeared there was some small debris in the gummy oil. Pressed the rag and It looked like a 1/16 inch dark sliver. Grabbed a magnet and sure enough it jumped right onto it. I put a really bright light onto the head and started blotting oil up in a white rag and pressing it. Sure enough, more small piece that were also ferris metal. They are very dull in color and very small. the first piece I found was easily three times larger than the next largest piece. From the forum's experience, what steel parts tend to wear or fail in a manner that sheds shards that are not captured by the filter? The oil looks new, and I'm sure the previous owner changed it before putting it up for sale. Doesn't seem to burn a lot of oil, although it still seems to me like a lot more blow by then I'm use to in old cars. I'm not familiar with the ring composition on these motors. Do the rings have a high steel content, maybe the wiper rings? What parts could put oil into the head that are after the oil filter? These filings are way to big to have made it through even a cheap filter, so I'm thinking they had to originate in the rocker arm area, but I couldn't detect any obvious clues in a visual inspection.


Seen this several times before, this is typically caused by excessive wear on the bottom side of the rocker shaft. Nothing new here, this is a long known weakness.

Quick way to tell is put 2 of the rockers on their overlap. Loosen the adjuster up several turns. Try to slide the rocker on the shaft depressing the spring that keeps it centered. If it won't move at all on the shaft its likely terminal. If you can slide it then look at the underside of the shaft while doing this, use a mirror. You'll most likely see deep grooves worn into the shaft.

Remove the entire rocker assembly and ship it to Rocker Arm Specialties in Redding Ca. (find on the web) For about $200 the will completely rebuild the entire rocker assembly and bush them like Triumph should have done originally.

GH

Do you send the whole assembly, rockers and all?

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F1000RACER Platinum Member Gary H
Alpine, CA, USA   USA
In reply to # 1601121 by ACMAUI
Do you send the whole assembly, rockers and all?

Yes including the pedestals. They also surface / align the pedestals.

GH

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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
They don't 'automatically' rebush the rocker arms. They didn't mine and may not yours:
http://rockerarms.com/pages/rebuild.html
BUT whatever you do, flush out the shaft when you get it back...Mine still had swarf or whatever left over from their process that was blocking several of the oil ports.
Other than that....



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com

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POW Peter Wirth
HEBRON, NH - New Hampshire, USA   USA
Another alternative. Got this kit for my engine rebuild, very nice fit and finish. - Pete


https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RR1312

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Hotshoe Ken Brinkley
Portland, OR, USA   USA
Or you can switch to roller rockers and never adjust your valves again .do you have an oil feed line going to the head from the block ?

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ACMAUI Andy Herrera
Gig Harbor, WA, USA   USA
In reply to # 1601284 by Hotshoe Or you can switch to roller rockers and never adjust your valves again .do you have an oil feed line going to the head from the block ?

No I don't have that oil line feed from the block. Mine is a totally stock (when I bought it with less than 58k miles), is that line an after market part and is it required to convert to roller rockers? Do you have any purchase suggestion on a rocker conversion?

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ACMAUI Andy Herrera
Gig Harbor, WA, USA   USA
In reply to # 1601178 by POW Another alternative. Got this kit for my engine rebuild, very nice fit and finish. - Pete


https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RR1312

Another item from Rimmer that is out of stock and has been for ages. Not sure what is going on with them. The bumper piece I tried to order has been back ordered for over a year with the manufacturer.

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POW Peter Wirth
HEBRON, NH - New Hampshire, USA   USA
In reply to # 1601447 by ACMAUI
In reply to # 1601178 by POW Another alternative. Got this kit for my engine rebuild, very nice fit and finish. - Pete


https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RR1312

Another item from Rimmer that is out of stock and has been for ages. Not sure what is going on with them. The bumper piece I tried to order has been back ordered for over a year with the manufacturer.

Is that right, I must have got in just under the wire. My full order of engine parts. including that kit came last week in Jan or first week in Feb. If you give them a ring they are very accommodating and will tell you when expected. - Pete

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ACMAUI Andy Herrera
Gig Harbor, WA, USA   USA
In reply to # 1601454 by POW
In reply to # 1601447 by ACMAUI
In reply to # 1601178 by POW Another alternative. Got this kit for my engine rebuild, very nice fit and finish. - Pete


https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RR1312

Another item from Rimmer that is out of stock and has been for ages. Not sure what is going on with them. The bumper piece I tried to order has been back ordered for over a year with the manufacturer.

Is that right, I must have got in just under the wire. My full order of engine parts. including that kit came last week in Jan or first week in Feb. If you give them a ring they are very accommodating and will tell you when expected. - Pete

I agree, they are very accommodating. When I emailed them on the bumper they got back to me a few hours later and said it had been back ordered from the manufacturer for over a year. So it wasn't their fault, and I sure didn't mean to imply that about them.
, but I think they should just put when parts are expected back in stock.

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