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Hub Mounting Thread Stripped

Moss Motors
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poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
Jim's right..the 7/16-14 bottoming tap is for the keensert procedure...sorry about that.



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com

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tomshobby Avatar
tomshobby Tom Smith
Windsor, WI, USA   USA
I also used keenserts when I did mine. Not that I don't like Helicoils but I just felt the keenserts a better choice for the application.



Tom Smith
1976 TR6
1974 Midget

kayjh Joel K
Winnipeg, MB, Canada   CAN
Thanks to everyone who helped with this. I drilled and tapped the offending hole and found the installation of the heliCoil pretty simple. I used a tap wrench to help keep things straight and had a successful install. I reinstalled the hub only to find the stud next to the one I replaced stripped, so I removed the axle and tapped that one.

I know I should have tapped them all, but with the kids, I had so little time these days and all of the others torqued without any sign of slipping. I'll definitely be doing the rest of them when I next work in this area of the car.

Thanks again. I was a bit nervous about this repair, but with some help here an da few YouTube videos, I found the process pretty simple. smiling smiley

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Drjamesmetz Avatar
Drjamesmetz Silver Member Jim Metz
Columbus, OH, USA   USA
Thank you for your concise answer...it really helped!

LFMTR4 Avatar
LFMTR4 Lou Mijares
Scottsboro, AL, USA   USA
I think that once you do the one, you’ll do the rest as most of the work is getting the side ready and you already have that half done.

Krom Avatar
Krom Paul K
San Rafael, CA, USA   USA
[/quote]
I think the most difficult part of this might be getting the new Moss Motirs hub back out. The original one slid back onto the studs on the driver’s side as easily as it came off, but the Moss part didn’t want to slide on easily on the passenger side and I moved it into position by tapping it down (lightly) and then tightening the the nuts on the hub studs to draw it towards the backing plate. It didn’t take mutch but I’m thinking it will need to be pried back off, or better, a hub puller tool to help it off.
[/quote]

The one element from above that gives me pause is the second to last sentence talking about drawing the hub towards the backing plate in order to seat the hub. The hub is ideally seated as fully as possible against the backing plate prior to tightening the nuts and washer to secure the hub. The reluctance one might experience getting the hub to seat properly must be dealt with prior to tightening, as the trailing arm threads are just too fragile when unreinforced to be counted upon to compress the hub into position. Sometimes a fully greased sliding joint traps air or excess grease and doesn't easily compress, causing the hub to remain proud of the backing plate. Perhaps better to tap the hub with a soft wood block and a mallet to drive it home than relying upon the nuts and studs to bring it into position. Or, perhaps use some slats of wood and c-clamps to compress the flange versus the backing plate. If there is some greater resistance to the hub seating, better to find a solution/rectify the resistance than put more strain on the studs. Of course, if coarse (!!) thread inserts are employed, this is a less pressing concern.

Doc250 Avatar
Doc250 Chris Holliday
Honeoye Falls, NY, USA   USA
1968 Triumph TR250 "Little Red One"
1975 Triumph TR6 "Lbc II"
Ken, can you tell us more about the keenserts you mentioned? If there is already a post that does the job, just point us to it.

a) Are they inserted before you have a problem?
b) what size do you use ?..
c) Do you drill out to make room?
d) I assume you can do this with the TA installed, correct?

My quick research says they come in stainless steel. My aluminum welder recommended stainless steel stud replacement but couldn't fine any fine tread ones. He says steel and aluminum don't like each other. This would be a nice alternative.

Doc

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
Doc, This is what we did....Patton has complete kits for keenserts or helicoils
http://pattonmachine.com/TAK.htm
You can do it preemptively. I think a lot of people do.



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com

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