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'76 TR6 Alternator Upgrade

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ripvwsss Dennis B
Forest, VA, USA   USA
I know that this has been the subject of a number of previous posts and I think I have read them all plus other books and articles. I concluded that the 55 amp alternator from a 1978 Ford Fiesta would be the best option. The electrical connections are the same and I should not have to upgrade the car's wiring to support the modest increase to 55 amps.

I ordered a rebuilt one from Advance Auto parts. Their part number is 13107. I was excited to receive it yesterday until I started to install it. The mounting points are completely wrong. as you can see in the picture, the original lock down bolt is located at about 4 o'clock on the original. It is at almost 12 o'clock on the replacement. I believe that this one would work great on earlier models that do not have an air pump. However, the connection points are lowered and flipped on the 1976.


Bottom line, can anyone tell a specific alternator that you have experience with that will fit up on the 1976??


Thanks,
Dennis

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Attachments:
TR^ Alternator IMG_5628.jpg    39.2 KB
TR^ Alternator IMG_5628.jpg

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
Can't you reclock it ?.
Aside from that, if you keep it's smaller pulley, won't you need a different belt and possibly the tension bracket ?



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
I think you missed an important point. It has to be a Bosch alternator from a 78-80 Fiesta. Most of them were fitted with Motorcraft alternators that mounted differently.

I installed a Bosch on a Buddy's tr6, and it dropped right in. All we had to do was install his old pulley.

I don't know of any other alternator that would both bolt up and take the same plug.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L Once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-08-07 12:59 PM by TR3driver.

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ripvwsss Dennis B
Forest, VA, USA   USA
I thought about clocking it but the casing bolds don't line so that that would work. I planned to swap out the pully. That part is the minor issue at this point.

ripvwsss Dennis B
Forest, VA, USA   USA
Do you have any idea about the model number of the Bosch alternator? I have run multiple internet searches. The pictures if the ones I find that say they are Bosch, but the pictures of the mounting locations look just like the AutoCraft.


Thanks

poolboy Avatar
poolboy Ken D
Sandy Hook, MS, USA   USA
When I did this on a 74 I specified a Bosch alternator for 78 to 80 Ford Fiesta WITH A/C and rear window defroster....You may have to have the Lucas pulley hole enlarged for the Bosch shaft.
Here's some alternator part #'s
AutoZone 131071
NAPA AL86X BSH (BOSCH)
You may need a metric bolt for the tension bracket and a bit longer belt to gain some space from the engine.....but again this was for a 74 without the air pump bracket...YMMV.



ZS carb repairs
kencorsaw@aol.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-08-07 12:51 PM by poolboy.

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Looks like 75-76 US-spec TR6 did take a different alternator configuration, because of the air pump. I either didn't know (or more likely forgot) that point.

So my apologies, afraid I can't help with a drop-in replacement.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L Once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

rjc157 Avatar
rjc157 ralph c
pearl river, NY, USA   USA
Are you still using the air pump .

titanic Berry P
Albany, OR, USA   USA
If the air pump is not being used, would the mounting bracket from an earlier car solve the problem?
Berry

rjc157 Avatar
rjc157 ralph c
pearl river, NY, USA   USA
yes that's what I did to mine same alternator you also need the top bracket that connects to the water pump

tr6easyrider Avatar
tr6easyrider Joe S
Riverside, CA, USA   USA
dsixnero Avatar
dsixnero Dan Colanero
Westville, NJ, USA   USA
I used a Duralast 14185 with lifetime warranty, had to rearrange some bushings and bought a universal adj. bracket so it's now easy to remove spark plug #1. 15 years and counting and yes I still have the box and receipt Dan.

ripvwsss Dennis B
Forest, VA, USA   USA
Is there any downside to removing the air pump but leaving the remainder of the system on the engine? I would plug the pipe that currently goes to the pump. (I am keeping all of the original parts in case I or someone else want to restore the car to a pure original.)

I have pretty much concluded that there is no good option for an upgraded alternator that would fit below the air pump, but there are many options to install one in place of the pump.


Thanks,

Dennis
'76 TR6

dsixnero Avatar
dsixnero Dan Colanero
Westville, NJ, USA   USA
Dennis, you can replace the tubing in your manifold with short bolts and a brass washer. Under all that crap is just a plain engine that runs on fuel,air, and spark.

drewstr6 Avatar
drewstr6 Silver Member Drew Baker
Greensboro, NC, USA   USA
1976 Triumph TR6 "Drewstr6"
Hello,

I was reading over your post and I wanted to see if you were able to figure out how to mount the 13107 on a '76 TR6. I have a '76 with the air pump bracket and I was able to drop it right in by just clocking the unit. The problem that I am having is that the alternator doesn't appear to be charging correctly. From what others said, the large brown wire and the yellow/brown that were in the plastic bracket just snap right in the new unit. The smaller brown wire is just to be tied off. However, others have said that you need this wire hooked up for the alternator to actually work correctly and the alternator/ignition warning light to work. The attached Dan Master diagram shows all three wires plugged directly into the alternator. I did this but the light still isn't working. Did you figure out how to wire it so that the light and alternator work? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks, Drew


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dm wiring page.jpg

existing alternator wires.jpg    43.7 KB
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wires no bracket.jpg    32.8 KB
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