Found a harness on the net and it was in good condition and the price was right , my old harness not so much.
I’m in the process of labeling all the connections and removing the harness tape. Holding everything together with zap straps .
There are a few wires that appear to be stuck together by heat and some that have been bared probably from being removed through the firewall (scraped) .
The colour code wiring is relatively the same colours as the original
Question
On the bare wires should I use heat shrink tubing and on the wires that where cut should I solder the same colour coded wire from the old harness then shrink tube them?
I’ll post pics tonight
http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf
TR4 & TR4A Forum
Wire (main) harness
Posted by bteichgraber
bteichgraber
Brian Teichgraber
Tsawwassen, BC, Canada
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Feb 5, 2019 09:56 AM
Joined 2 years ago
167 Posts
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TR3driver
Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA
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Feb 5, 2019 01:16 PM
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Rather than long runs of wire with heat shrink on it; I would splice in sections from the old harness and just put heat shrink on the joints.
Otherwise, your plan sounds good.
For joining wires like that, I use a variation of the "Western Union" splice rather than crimp-on butt connectors. Be sure to slide a suitable length of heat shrink onto one of the wires first, though, and keep it far enough away so it's not affected by the heat of soldering.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice
Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L Once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild
Otherwise, your plan sounds good.
For joining wires like that, I use a variation of the "Western Union" splice rather than crimp-on butt connectors. Be sure to slide a suitable length of heat shrink onto one of the wires first, though, and keep it far enough away so it's not affected by the heat of soldering.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice
Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L Once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild
bteichgraber
Brian Teichgraber
Tsawwassen, BC, Canada
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Feb 5, 2019 09:24 PM
Joined 2 years ago
167 Posts
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Some photos
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Attachments:
mgruber921
Marvin Gruber
Florence, AL, USA
![]() 1968 Triumph TR250
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Feb 7, 2019 09:14 AM
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You should have asked me, have some better than that. I replace rather than worry about wires melting together again.
Marv
Marv
bteichgraber
Brian Teichgraber
Tsawwassen, BC, Canada
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Feb 11, 2019 05:10 PM
Joined 2 years ago
167 Posts
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Thanks. The harness other then 3 wires seams pretty good still thanks though
For 5 bucks I laminated a schematic- way easier then looking at the iPhone
For 5 bucks I laminated a schematic- way easier then looking at the iPhone
trrdster
Wayne Tate
Spencer, NC, USA
![]() 1949 Triumph 2000 Roadster
1970 Triumph TR6 1978 Triumph Spitfire "Scooter" 2000 Jaguar XK8 Convertible |
Feb 12, 2019 06:17 PM
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Brian, get a 12 inch long 4 X 4 to solder the wires on. Dip in flux and twist together, let the wire melt the solder not the tip.
Pushing on the wire on the wood will make it go much faster.
I'll get to our project shortly.
Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)
Pushing on the wire on the wood will make it go much faster.
I'll get to our project shortly.
Wayne
1970 TR6
2000 Jaguar XK8
1949 Triumph Roadster 2000
1978 Spitfire (rust victim)
1971 GT6 (tarp covered for 12 years, rusted inside out)
1980 Spitfire (getting all the good GT6 parts, all poly suspension and Spax shocks)
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