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What did you do with your TR4 today?

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shiparino Avatar
shiparino Clark Shipley
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
Hi Jake,

I cut out the battery shelf, due to several rust holes. Drilling out the spot welds worked on about 80% of them, mangled the rest. To make the replacement piece, I cut a piece of steel about a 1/2" wider in either side. To shape the depressions I carved a buck in a big chunk of 4x12 that I use in the garage, screwed the plate down and beat the hell out of it with hammers and dollies, then bent the front with vise grips. As you can see, it's pretty rough. Since this is the first time I've ever attempted something like this, I had no idea how it would turn out, but in my head it was a bit smoother. Drilled holes along the edges to plug weld it in place. Ground down the amateurish welds, and applied the first skim coat of filler to smooth out the "bumps". Still working on the smoothing and also preparing the whole engine bay for paint. The battery tray is better than the rusty one, but by no means a professional job. That stuff you see on TV, that get's wrapped up in 30 or 60 minutes, is a bit harder than you (I) might think... ha

Thanks,

Clark

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Fictioneer Avatar
Fictioneer Doug Hirt
Colorado Springs, CO, USA   USA
Hi Clark,
I bought a bead roller to do a similar repair fabrication on the boot's floor. I haven't attempted that project yet. Guys on YouTube make it look easy, but my experience has been different. I usually give up after a few false starts and resort to replacement panels --- BMH panels if I can find them. Yours is one solution, and it looks to have worked well. Happily, the battery covers any imperfections.
Doug



"Mr. Filby, do you think he'll ever return?"
"One cannot choose but wonder. You see . . . he has all the time in the world!"

7873jake Avatar
7873jake Jake Taylor
Deland, FL, USA   USA
If you have hammer marks you want to remove, in the absence of an English wheel, a shrinking wheel on an angle grinder can do wonders.

Decent ones cost around 40 bucks. YouTube videos abound . I bought one to do a fender repair on drivers side and it's actually kinda fun to use. It is loud and it does generate some heat so keep the compressor air gun handy and maybe a squirt bottle with isopropyl alcohol to cool the panel and "tighten" (shrink!) the piece.

You can use the edge of the wheel to work tight spaces.

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Fictioneer Avatar
Fictioneer Doug Hirt
Colorado Springs, CO, USA   USA
Jake, I've used a propane torch to heat the steel and then doused it in cold water to help shrink areas. A follow-up with a hammer and dolly -- used with a light touch -- managed to push the metal back in place. English wheel . . . shrinker/ stretcher . . . shear . . . finger brake . . . all tools I lust after, but have no room here in my tiny garage for them. There again, the YouTube professionals make their use look easy, but in real life, it takes lots of practice to get even half way decent results.



"Mr. Filby, do you think he'll ever return?"
"One cannot choose but wonder. You see . . . he has all the time in the world!"

7873jake Avatar
7873jake Jake Taylor
Deland, FL, USA   USA
Like you, I have little space in which to keep the tools I long for which is why we tried the shrinking disk on the angle grinder route. (My apologies, I realize now I said shrinking wheel before, but meant shrinking disk.)

Its a ~4" stainless steel wheel that I used to remove someone else's hammer and dolly marks when I discovered that the driver's side front fender had been mostly banged back out in to a shape approximating the original fender. I've used in on smaller repairs and in more confined spaces in the fender contours where it would have been difficult to get a hammer in to. You can also edge the disk in to tight spaces (tilt the angle grinder up and use just the tighter profile of the outer edge of the disk rather than the open, flat face of it) and with gentle pressure, smooth things out.

I think it was this one...

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=220792084299&category=43998&pm=1&ds=0&t=1499452041000&ver=0

It smoothed out the ripple in the fender nicely with a light touch and lots of back and forth. The "before" picture isn't great but you can see the ugliness. The "after" picture (where it is clearly a fender on the body tub) shows a smoother panel that in reality feels smoother than it looks in bad, shadowy shop light.


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Fictioneer Avatar
Fictioneer Doug Hirt
Colorado Springs, CO, USA   USA
Will definitely have to try this, Jake.
Doug



"Mr. Filby, do you think he'll ever return?"
"One cannot choose but wonder. You see . . . he has all the time in the world!"

MGB777 Avatar
MGB777 Tim Smith
Oregon, IL, USA   USA
1952 MG TD "The "Abbey"
1960 Triumph TR3A "Patch's"
1966 Triumph TR4A
1975 MG Midget 1500 "Little Bro"    & more
changed out the Armstrong front shocks that weren't very strong anymore ……bought some KYB's


waiting on parts to redo the entire rear suspension...…. World Wide rebuilt my stuck shocks … new bushes and leaf springs next


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JGug1 Avatar
JGug1 Silver Member James Guglielmino
Mission, KS, USA   USA
Jack and I had an errand to do at a little house I have bought and am having restored to livable and Shawnee Mission Lake was close by so we visited the off leash area at the lake. It was a gorgeous day here, in Kansas City and the TR4 got a little exercise.


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malbaby Avatar
malbaby malcolm baker
kyabram, Australia   AUS
"Kansas City Here I Come"....with Fats Domino.

MGB777 Avatar
MGB777 Tim Smith
Oregon, IL, USA   USA
1952 MG TD "The "Abbey"
1960 Triumph TR3A "Patch's"
1966 Triumph TR4A
1975 MG Midget 1500 "Little Bro"    & more
W0W ,,, my car sure is bouncing now ,,, new front shocks ,,, newly rebuilt rear shocks and new leaf springs w/ connecting links and bushings ,,, Hang On !!

And new emergency brake cables ,,,,,,,, just for good luck smileys with beer



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-10-30 05:03 PM by MGB777.

ducbsa Bruce Metcalf
Berryville, VA, USA   USA
How did you like installing the brake cable anchors in the trailing arms (IRS?) ?

MGB777 Avatar
MGB777 Tim Smith
Oregon, IL, USA   USA
1952 MG TD "The "Abbey"
1960 Triumph TR3A "Patch's"
1966 Triumph TR4A
1975 MG Midget 1500 "Little Bro"    & more
No IRS here Bruce ,,, lucky me winking smiley

MGB777 Avatar
MGB777 Tim Smith
Oregon, IL, USA   USA
1952 MG TD "The "Abbey"
1960 Triumph TR3A "Patch's"
1966 Triumph TR4A
1975 MG Midget 1500 "Little Bro"    & more
disconnected the battery cables and placed the battery tender on it ,,,, drained the carbs ,,,, gave her a quick squirt of polish and aired up the tires ,,, now we wait for spring.... smiling bouncing smiley

7873jake Avatar
7873jake Jake Taylor
Deland, FL, USA   USA
Made bare steel wings cover up in epoxy primer. Well, truth be told, I made a bunch of pieces cover up in epoxy primer... all of the wings, the boot and bonnet, the front "chin" piece and one of the two doors. The chicken in me took one door apart and left one door intact so that I could "blueprint" the reassembly of the freshly painted door off of the still rusty, still assembled 'factory' door and then turn my attention to refinishing the other door. Didn't want to have two doors all apart and no clue as to how to get them back together. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I still have a body tub to be scrubbed down (currently pickled in Ospho) and neutralized before I shoot it in epoxy primer, top, bottom and sides.

--Jake


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BL50 Avatar
BL50 Silver Member Brian Leslie
Grosse Pointe, MI, USA   USA
Looks great so far! What color are you going with?

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