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What did you do with your TR4 today?

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shiparino Avatar
shiparino Clark Shipley
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
Finished driver side door jams and hardware. Little paint, little polish, little time... Big difference.

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Fictioneer Avatar
Fictioneer Doug Hirt
Colorado Springs, CO, USA   USA
Hey Jake, looks pretty good. Was that done by sanding?
Doug



"Mr. Filby, do you think he'll ever return?"
"One cannot choose but wonder. You see . . . he has all the time in the world!"



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-07-23 09:24 PM by Fictioneer.

1147cc Avatar
1147cc Silver Member Douglas Hansen
Westminster, SC, USA   USA
I converted my TR4 internal panel to the later TR6 internals for the better window regulators...
these doors are going on my GTR5



Douglas Hansen
New Parts; Engine Rebuilds; Sheet Metal work and Advice.
http://www.1147cc.com

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7873jake Avatar
7873jake Jake Taylor
Deland, FL, USA   USA
Doug,

It was done mostly with aircraft stripper (to remove undercoating) and black diamond blasting media, fine grade coal slag from Tractor Supply for around $8 a bag.

There were areas that got flap disk'ed and some that got wire wheel/cup with aircraft stripper but the greatest success was had with a Harbor Freight 50# plastic blasting hopper and compressor. Craftsman used to sell one for around $30-40 that was the same thing. The gun is nice and small and fits easily in to tight spaces. It helps to install an inline water/oil filter to reduce dampness in the abrasive media.

I also had one of the hand held blasters with a 1 liter canister that worked reasonably well but the greatest return for the lowest consumption of media was the 50LB "Portable Abrasive Blaster Kit" for around $30. Had to replace the hose with some old air tool hose to get it to hold up (the HF crap hose was useless out of the box) but it ended up being the one thing that blasted finish without dumping/using excessive amts of the black diamond. I also have an ALC 110 abrasive blaster that works like crazy but it eats like an Alabama linebacker and it is hard to get in to the tight nooks with the big dead man's valve. Its great on hoods and trunks and fenders.

Couple of notes: getting aggressive with the 60 or 80 grit stripping flap disk removes thickness in the sheet metal and makes it flash rust within 24 hours. I mention this because if you get tired, distracted, preoccupied with killing off old paint, you'll thin out the metal in areas that didn't need it. I hit a few areas that probably would have been OK with a clean up, fresh primer and paint but the sanding with the disk forced me to repair/reinforce them because it was too aggressive of a technique. Lesson learned on my part.

Stuff I've abrasive blasted will almost not flash rust unless I leave it out in a rainstorm (and we've had tons of rain this summer!) If I stripper + wire brush/wheel, it will flash rust eventually but nothing like the areas that get flap disk or DA. Those go bright orange in no time.

--Jake

Fictioneer Avatar
Fictioneer Doug Hirt
Colorado Springs, CO, USA   USA
Jake,
Thanks for the details. I'm heading into this stage of my project, and I must say, I find paint, undercoating, and rust removal most odious. I'll save the chassis frame rebuild until last, as a sort of reward for doing the body work. winking smiley
Doug



"Mr. Filby, do you think he'll ever return?"
"One cannot choose but wonder. You see . . . he has all the time in the world!"

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
Jake,
You’re making great progress and your information is spot on. I find that the Aircraft stripper leaves the metal in much better shape, but my painter likes the ‘tooth’ sandblasting gives for the epoxy primer. I can’t wait to get to that stage on the Royal Blue TR4a!
Rut

malbaby Avatar
malbaby malcolm baker
kyabram, Australia   AUS
Another alternative is to have those parts Zinc plated.

7873jake Avatar
7873jake Jake Taylor
Deland, FL, USA   USA
Rut, you're too kind in your assessment of 'making progress'. Thankfully, I'm still of the mindset that this is still zen and mentally cleansing and not an entire burden, tedious labor of love or some other discouraging/defeating position. Yes, I want it done but I also enjoy doing it, still. I do notice I get focused and forget to post more often here despite looking stuff up at least once a week. Maybe that's for the best given my penchant for rambling on...

Triumph Racer Avatar
Triumph Racer Patrick N
south bend, IN., USA   USA
1962 Triumph TR4 "My First Triumph"
1962 Triumph TR4 "Big Red"
1964 Triumph TR4 "Ugly Duckling"
1971 Triumph Spitfire MkIV    & more
Even Led Zep sang the Ramble on tune. That's pretty good company for that wouldn't you say? Rut has always been a kind & generous person here or on the MG experience.



Sometimes you succeed,other times you learn.

7873jake Avatar
7873jake Jake Taylor
Deland, FL, USA   USA
Thank you Patrick. I'll take any comparison to Led Zep as a compliment!

What I did today: Because I forgot and left my welding jacket and sleeves in the washer today so it was all still wet (I wear the black jacket in the summer on sunny days when I'm media blasting to keep grit out of EVERY crevice and as a weight loss program!), I decided to fiddle with the door window channels.

My channels are in good shape (bad felt, good channels) but the brackets all jiggled, shook and rattled.

I peened the rivets with a 1/4" pin punch and tightened the brackets back up so no chatter. Peen gently... those rivets are small and if you flatten the head too much, it will weaken, fracture and go away.

--Jake


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Teterman2005 Avatar
Teterman2005 Brian T
Fairbanks, AK, USA   USA
I trailered my TR4 4000 miles from Texas to Alaska and entered a car show!

Actually the trailering part was last month.....

Brian



Regards,

Brian
'64 TR4


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shiparino Avatar
shiparino Clark Shipley
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
Ok, not just today, yesterday too.

- Stripped the gunk and crappy paint off the front section of the frame
- Covered in Eastwood Rust Encapsulator primer, in preparation for Eastwood Chassis Black
- Prepped and painted front bumper brackets and springs with the encapsulator
- Straightened and welded one corner, prepped and painted the radiator guard, with the encapsulator and chassis black (which looks really good)
- Made a new battery tray and welded it in place

Making progress. Slow, but it's progress. The main issue is seeing something that doesn't look quite right, then just starting tear it apart. I'm sure most of you know the drill.


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7873jake Avatar
7873jake Jake Taylor
Deland, FL, USA   USA
Clark,

I had to stop for a moment and really look at that top picture in your post.

I couldn't figure out what all the steel was under the inner fender/engine bay of your body tub.

It's been so long since my body tub and frame have been in physical contact that it looked out of place to see the cross member, frame rail and steering rack that close to the fender.

Immediate sadness struck...

At least they sleep in the same workshop mere feet from one another.

--Jake

shiparino Avatar
shiparino Clark Shipley
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
Jake,

I’ve got 4 of the body to frame bolts removed, debated in my head whether to do more. Kinda want to, but it’s more than I’m prepared to do at this time. Think it will be a nice driver.

I’m sure your finished product will be much nicer and worth the work.

Clark

7873jake Avatar
7873jake Jake Taylor
Deland, FL, USA   USA
Clark,

I'm digging the work you've done on the battery "shelf". That's got my attention for sure.

Are you re-skinning that area or did you cut the old one out entirely? I'd love to hear about your work creating the indents in the metal also.

--Jake

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