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What did you do with your TR4 today?

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7873jake Avatar
7873jake Jake Taylor
Deland, FL, USA   USA
I've found a dove grey that isn't in the Triumph catalog of colors for the TR4's. I think I found evidence of the color in other vehicles in the Triumph line (thinking Mayflower, Roadster or Dolomite... or Herald maybe).

We saw a Jag XK140 in the dove grey with red interior, a color combo Jag was very fond of for a while, and liked the subtlety of the color and the way it had a different feel in different light. While no one would ever accuse the Michelotti body of the TR4 of being curvy, the long'ish hood with the bulge and the sheer of the body line with tastefully done fender flares makes for a car that should have had a few more lighter color options from the factory to bring out the nuances of the details.

I've spent the past few weeks working each panel over with filler to erase ripples, dings, welds and other imperfections that I've repaired with steel first. Attached are some of the progress pictures.

In doing this, I've spent an inordinate amount of time running my fingers over every inch of Michelotti's details, sometimes with my eyes closed. Its embarrassing to have your wife catch you doing this, I won't lie. At least I have nitrile gloves on when I do this.

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Attachments:
grey140.jpg    43.9 KB
grey140.jpg

Front wing.jpg    26.4 KB
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Chia pet bootlid.jpg    25.1 KB
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Smooth bootlid.jpg    23.8 KB
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Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
Jake,
Congratulations on getting to this point and it looks great! I love epoxy primer for the protection it offers and also for the ability to apply body filler on top of it. If you can, shoot some primer/sealer on top if it before you have scuff the epoxy primer...saves a bunch of time.
Rut

Fictioneer Avatar
Fictioneer Doug Hirt
Colorado Springs, CO, USA   USA
Jake,
MG used a similar color called Chelsea Gray, which I've always thought was quite handsome, especially with red upholstery. Nice to see your progress. It's been too cold here in Colorado to do much of anything except dream of warmer days to come.
Doug



"Mr. Filby, do you think he'll ever return?"
"One cannot choose but wonder. You see . . . he has all the time in the world!"

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7873jake Avatar
7873jake Jake Taylor
Deland, FL, USA   USA
Thanks to you both.

As of late, I've been slowed by frigid temps myself and not able to fire off filler/glaze for continued work because of evening temps below 65F. Thankfully, I only have a day or two before I can get back to more seasonable weather and wield a spreader and mix board. (I really should apologize... it gets 60 or less around here and we all go for jackets and closed toed shoes like the apocalypse is imminent. I don't know what permafrost feels like.)

The boot lid was a first attempt at skimming an entire panel all at once. Its a little bit like ballet in boots until I got the rhythm down and found a few tricks like "keep your filler spread thin on the mix board to reduce chemical reaction heat and slow cure time/extend work time".

The panels were all shot in primer before filler so I have a base of corrosion control except for those areas where the hi/low break through in sanding brought out fresh metal. Once done with this stage, I will shoot in epoxy primer again to seal this layer, let it sit a few days and then move to high build primer surfacer within 5-7 days, as SPI suggests, before blocking again prior to paint. I'm trying to get things done in the time allotted to benefit from the chemical bond of the EP + filler, etc rather than constantly scuffing and shooting outside of the 7 day work window with the epoxy. Sometimes, its not possible. (Note to other and future "restorers" and anyone pondering doing your own body prep, the words "block" and "blocking" are simple and short... and deceptively cloak the actual death march that blocking really is as it belies the hours of insanity required to achieve truly good results. Youtube videos also gloss over this fact, rarely showing/discussing just how long one will spend doing this task. Be forewarned, it is a slippery slope in to a deep rabbit hole)

Once that's all velvety smooth, its coats of single stage grey all around. It is a little bit of a teaser preview when I'm done shooting the SPI EP coats. It has a little gloss to it that gives a hint of the color to come later although I think its probably a shade darker than the dove grey.

Fictioneer Avatar
Fictioneer Doug Hirt
Colorado Springs, CO, USA   USA
Ha! Right now I'd kill for 60 degree weather. Been in the teens most of the week. At the moment it's in the 30s. Feels almost balmy. Open-toes shoes? Don't even want to think about such things this time of the year. They sound like open-invitations to frostbite and blood on the garage floor.



"Mr. Filby, do you think he'll ever return?"
"One cannot choose but wonder. You see . . . he has all the time in the world!"

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
Jake,
MGs also used a color call Grampion Gray and it is really nice looking.
Rut


Attachments:
AD5641D9-D76F-4759-8E57-4D3F54DCA1A6.jpeg    40.5 KB
AD5641D9-D76F-4759-8E57-4D3F54DCA1A6.jpeg

7873jake Avatar
7873jake Jake Taylor
Deland, FL, USA   USA
Yup!!!

I've loved that body style and color combo for far too long.

peterfx Avatar
peterfx Peter Carruthers
Rye, NY, USA   USA
Hello all,
I am a new member who joined the group in the fall and have a '67 TR4-A (registered as a '68). Hoping to become a little more involved in the group as long as work allows.
During the summer the TR developed a rough idle and started losing power after warm-up. So after too many years of little maintenance and little driving I did a lot of work on electrics and top end. Still running rough so now I removed the SU's for a cleaning and rebuild and next removing and cleaning the gas tank. Also removing the intake and exhaust manifolds for a sand blast and paint (exhaust only). So after almost two weeks I finally was able to loosen the exhaust bolts after bathing the bolts in Blaster. Great success!

7873jake Avatar
7873jake Jake Taylor
Deland, FL, USA   USA
Update from the team who restores cars at the speed of smell...

I finally brought the body tub back from the Ospho pickling state it was "parked" in between sand blasting and primer. (In short, because of our proximity to the ocean and the high relative humidity, wood flash rusts here and old British cars **REALLY** flash rust when their paint has been removed so I had to park it in Ospho while I did some more metal work to the tub.)

I reactivated the dried Ospho with wet Ospho and then scrubbed and pressure wash rinsed the body to reduce/eliminate the dreaded acid film threat most epoxy primer manufacturers warn against. One of the photos below show a very orange car but flash rust looks a lot worse than it really is and it went away with relative ease. I also found an epoxy primer that doesn't cringe at the threat of being shot over a previously pickled car and was able to get a good 4 stage clean and prep before shooting it this week.

The weather was in the high 60s to mid 70s, sunny and dry, with overnight lows in the low to mid 60s F.

I flipped the tub upside down and shot the heck out of it, let it flash for as long as I could (about 3 hours) and then parked it back in the shop overnight to continue to cure.

The next day, did the same thing to the topside and left it alone for two whole days. I'm not one to let drying paint dry so I have to walk away and not touch it for 48 hours otherwise, I'll finger print it or screw with it until I screw something up.

I will offer up that a door jamb gun is a helpful tool when painting a car but it is especially helpful when shooting primer in to cracks, crevices, flanges, lips and the undersides of the cockpit. It gives good coverage in small spaces, light to work with and easy to manipulate without wearing out your forearms and elbows.

I've crossed a critical milestone here... every body part except one door has been media blasted, rust converted, cleaned, prep'd and primer'd and I am out of the rust stage! (I left the passenger door totally assembled as a blueprint for how to re-assemble the door I did break down in to 100 little pieces. Once I get that door back together, I will explode, strip and prime/paint the other door.)


Attachments:
Rusty front.jpg    33.9 KB
Rusty front.jpg

Bare steel body.jpg    58.3 KB
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Primer upside down.jpg    49.8 KB
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Primer trunk.jpg    36.1 KB
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7873jake Avatar
7873jake Jake Taylor
Deland, FL, USA   USA
One last one of the front...


Attachments:
Primer topside front.jpg    38.4 KB
Primer topside front.jpg

JGug1 Avatar
JGug1 Silver Member James Guglielmino
Mission, KS, USA   USA
These are GREAT pictures. I'd send congratulations but I know that, as pretty as the car looks, you have a long, LONG way to go.
Never mind. Congratulations on getting that bare metal covered.
Hang in there.
J

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
Jake,
Congratulations on getting to this point in your resto!
Rut

christopizza Avatar
christopizza CHRIS S
YOUNGSVILLE, NC, USA   USA
1954 Triumph TR2 "Clarence"
1959 Triumph TR3 "Cheddar"
1963 Triumph TR4 "Photene"
1969 Triumph TR6    & more
Took it out for a happy birthday run!



1954 TR2 long door "Clarence"
1963 TR4 German import "Photene"
1969 TR6 - needs a new home "Rusty"
1973 TR6 - needs paint - mechanicals completed "The Pig"


Attachments:
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20190210_171904.jpg

Manistee Avatar
Manistee Silver Member Jim Gow
Grayling, Michigan, Newark, Delaware, USA   USA
Happy (belated) Birthday!

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