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rebuilding TR3 brake and clutch cylinders

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T-time Avatar
T-time Barry O
Milton, ON, Canada   CAN
I plan on using DOT 3 again, as i understand it if I want to switch to synthetic DOT 5 I would need to replace ALL the seals ( rear brake cylinders, clutch slave cylinder) and then totally flush the system



Barry
59 TR3A
68 Mustang

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Jacad Avatar
Jacad Gold Member Barry Shefner
Montreal, QC, Canada   CAN
1959 Triumph TR3A "Loose Wheels"
1976 Triumph TR6 "The Tweetster"
Barry,

You are quite correct, if you want to switch over to DOT 5 your entire hydraulic system should be totally purged of any trace of the old DOT 3 so not only do you have to drain and clean all your lines but all the old seals need to be replaced.
(Actually, I think that mixing the dots may not be absolutely fatal, but they are not supposed to reside side by side as they will not mix together, so if you do not purge your system you will have 2 different types of fluid in suspension which is probably not a good idea. While I am doubtful that todays rubber seals would be affected by DOT 5 (silicone) mixing could result in uneven braking)



Barry
59 TR3A 0TS57675LO - "Loose Wheels"
76 TR6 CF54266U - "The Tweetster"
Website: Triumph TR2-TR3-TR4 www.trtriumph.com/ (sorry for not keeping it current for the past couple of years)



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-06 09:37 AM by Jacad.

T-time Avatar
T-time Barry O
Milton, ON, Canada   CAN
no instructions on what direction to put the new seals on plunger, the end one was so worn you couldn't tell which way it went
can someone please let me know if i have them right?



Barry
59 TR3A
68 Mustang

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Attachments:
new seals.jpg    24.1 KB
new seals.jpg

Jacad Avatar
Jacad Gold Member Barry Shefner
Montreal, QC, Canada   CAN
1959 Triumph TR3A "Loose Wheels"
1976 Triumph TR6 "The Tweetster"
Looks correct, the fatter/hollow end of the seal goes into the cylinder first



Barry
59 TR3A 0TS57675LO - "Loose Wheels"
76 TR6 CF54266U - "The Tweetster"
Website: Triumph TR2-TR3-TR4 www.trtriumph.com/ (sorry for not keeping it current for the past couple of years)

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
This might help
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1V-Xd9TEycmzzLv6gqDHUM_GxQRsw-7oU



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L Once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Just my opinion : I would rather run a mixture than straight DOT 3. The two fluids are fully compatible (per DOT requirements), they just don't mix. Traces of DOT 3 left behind will continue to degrade, eventually turning to a gooey mess. But you still get the benefit of not having corrosive DOT 3 in all the places where steel rubs aluminum (which with DOT 3 sets up an electrolytic corrosion cell); and not having it take off the paint when you do eventually have a leak.

I'm not saying that it isn't better to replace all the seals, soft lines and maybe even hard lines (they are some 60 years old after all); just that half a loaf is better than none at all.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L Once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

TuRtle5 Avatar
TuRtle5 Kevin Kelly
Absecon, NJ, USA   USA
1949 Triumph 2000 Roadster "Coral Mistress"
1959 Triumph TR3A "Drandulet"
1962 Triumph Vitesse "Ohtoseethelightofday"
1968 Triumph TR250    & more
I've switched over my Triumphs to silicone. I don't take everything apart- I open the bleeders, disconnect the master cylinder lines, blow compressed air through the lines until all cleared of fluid, squirt a small amount of starting fluid in the lines and blow it out again. I take apart the M/cyl and spray the parts off with starting fluid, reassemble w/ silicone fluid and all good. I found that after cleaning brake parts with brake-clean, I could still feel something left on the parts (brake fluid). a quick shot of starting fluid (alcohol) and it was gone. Been doing this for years with good results.

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