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Brake and Clutch Pedals - clevis removal

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desertdick Avatar
desertdick Richard Warfield
Tallahassee, FL, USA   USA
Hi,
Can someone tell me the secret of how to remove the pedals from this TR3?
Both master cylinders are out, box is unbolted from cowl, but I can't for the life of me get these pedals out.

I'm having difficulty with two things:

1) The shaft that both pedals pivot on is still there and if I remove one of the bolts, the shaft turns which keeps me from being able to remove the other bolt.
With one bolt out, can I drift the shaft out of the pedals from one side?

2) The clevises on top of the pedal arms, attached to the master cyl pushrods...what procedure will allow me to remove the clevises from the pedal arms?
I see no clips or keepers of any kind...the side facing the battery has a hex-shaped hole (nearly inaccessible) but rotating this seems to change nothing...

What am I missing here? I've worked on cars for many years but this is the first British car and I'm not too familiar with their peculiarities.,..
I feel stupid.


Can someone offer me some advise here?


-Rich



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-05 05:35 PM by desertdick.

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CJD john durant
Southlake, TX, USA   USA
What year are we working on?



John
Southlake, TX

'55 TR2

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Sounds like maybe we need a picture of those clevises. Normally, the clevis pin has a cotter pin on one side (which is pretty obvious) and a larger section with threads on the other side, which screws into the side of the clevis. There are matching holes in the sides of the bracket, so you can get in there with a stubby flat blade screwdriver to remove the pins. Or, if someone has put them in backwards, there are also wrench flats.

Oh, yeah, you'll probably have to remove the wiper motor, too.

Sorry, best photo I've got handy


It's been awhile since I've done pedals, but as I recall you can remove both pedals as an assembly from the car, which then allows you to slide off the one on the side where the bolt will come out, exposing the shaft so you can grab it to work on the other bolt. There are 4 nuts that come off studs from the top, then 4 bolts from underneath that hold the bottom bracket to the firewall. Of course, the clevises have to be removed first, so the levers can slide down through the slots.



I am assuming from your "both master cylinders" comment and location that you're working on a later car with Girling brakes and LHD. It would be helpful if you could add your commission number(s) to your forum signature, so we don't have to guess. You can put XX for the last two digits, if you're worried about us knowing your commission number.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L Once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-05 08:18 PM by TR3driver.

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desertdick Avatar
desertdick Richard Warfield
Tallahassee, FL, USA   USA
Wiper motor is out (as is most everything else). All the nuts and bolts holding the box onto the cowl have been removed (above and below).

Tag on cowl is: TS21259L...'58 I believe.

If there were cotter pins, they're no longer there.

I'll see if I can get the clevis pins lined up with the hole in the metal box and see if they'll unscrew....

Thanks for the information....hopefully I'll have some luck with it today.


-Rich

brucejon Avatar
brucejon Gold Member Bruce Jones
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A
1963 Triumph TR3B "Tupperware TR3"
1969 Triumph Spitfire MkIII
1972 Triumph TR6
Memory issue here, I seem to recall there are bolts you have to remove from inside the car,. Parts catalogue diagram should show this. Mine was also installed with some sort of black sealer. I had to gently pry it free, working with a putty knife to break the bond.



60 TR3A (red), 62 TR3B project, 72 TR6, 69 Mk3 Spitfire EU setup
https://spitfiremk3.wordpress.com

CJD john durant
Southlake, TX, USA   USA
If you are dealing with the early clevis' with the springs, then they must unscrew using a large flathead screwdriver. They additionally may have a cotter pin on the opposite side of the screw slot. In short...they unscrew. The issue is the pedals must be staggered in order to get the driver on the clevis slots.



A picture is worth a thousand words...please post one and we can get you going in a few minutes, instead of guessing what you missed.

This is a simple assembly, so if it is not coming apart easily you have forgotten a bolt or two. The pedals come out as a unit with the under-side frame plate. They MUST be removed as an assembly before you can remove the individual pedals, as the pedals must come upward out of the frame plate. So, do not bother with the pedal pivot bolts until you have gotten the entire assembly removed.



John
Southlake, TX

'55 TR2



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-06 10:37 AM by CJD.

Jacad Avatar
Jacad Gold Member Barry Shefner
Montreal, QC, Canada   CAN
1959 Triumph TR3A "Loose Wheels"
1976 Triumph TR6 "The Tweetster"
As Johns pics show, the threaded end of the clevis pins are/should be slotted so you should be able to turn them using a Medium sized slotted screwdriver. If they were installed correctly, they should be facing to either side so that you can access them thru the round holes near the front of the pedal box. You will likely have to push the push-rod back to line the clevis with the hole. Easiest way is to insert something between the push-rod assembly and the front of the box to hold the pushrod in place so that you are able to get the flat screwdriver through the hole and into the slot of the clevis pin. The clevis pin should have a small spring on it as well as a cotter pin installed through the small hole in the pin so that it does not undo.

BTW in case you are unaware, there is a square cover approx 4" x 4" behind the pedal box held in with 4 small screws that are accessible from the passenger compartment. If you remove the cover, it makes undoing the bolts holding the cylinders to the pedal box alot easier.



Barry
59 TR3A 0TS57675LO - "Loose Wheels"
76 TR6 CF54266U - "The Tweetster"
Website: Triumph TR2-TR3-TR4 www.trtriumph.com/ (sorry for not keeping it current for the past couple of years)


Attachments:
pedal box.jpg    32.4 KB
pedal box.jpg

desertdick Avatar
desertdick Richard Warfield
Tallahassee, FL, USA   USA
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions....
I got it all out today.
The clevises had holes for cotter pins, but none were installed.
Instead of screwdriver slots, these had female hex sockets....once I was able to stagger the pedals
In the box, I was able to unscrew the pins with a ball-end hex key, brake first,
After that I was able to get the wrench into the clutch pedal clevis...

As soon as the second clevis pin was unscrewed, the pedals (with the bracket they pivot on)
fell onto the floor of the car....then I removed the gas pedal and carb linkage...
Firewall is now all stripped except for the water temp gauge capillary line, which appears to be
Cross-threaded into the lower thermostat housing....I've spoken with a local machine-shop owner about
Installing a bushing if I rip the threads out of the aluminum casting...I'd like to save the original temp gauge
If possible.

Thanks again for the help.....I'm going to join a photo hosting site before next week, so in them future I can
properly show what my issue is with less of a verbal description. I'm often being nudged to get quickly to the point,
but as an engineer, I tend to go into too much detail sometimes....

-Rich

TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
FWIW, the Tstat housing is available new. TRF has them on sale for $50, P/N 203781. Originals are often pretty badly corroded inside, so that might make more sense than trying to repair yours.

If you buy on ebay, note that TR4 housings look just a little bit different. They will fit a TR3 (and are often listed that way), but do look a bit different.

Interesting about the hex sockets. I'd still like to see a photo if possible.



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L Once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-08 12:28 AM by TR3driver.

Jacad Avatar
Jacad Gold Member Barry Shefner
Montreal, QC, Canada   CAN
1959 Triumph TR3A "Loose Wheels"
1976 Triumph TR6 "The Tweetster"
Further to what Randall said about the thermostat housing, below are pictures of the difference between the TR3 and TR4 housing, (for the TR4 type, rather than being 90 deg to the body, the probe inlet is at a 100-105 deg angle )
An interesting note on Revington TR's site concerning the housing is that they have improved it by adding a 5/8" UNF Male to Female brass fitting so that if you use it, you will always be able to easily remove your probe from the brass fitting rather than from the housing where corrosion buildup normally occurs. Their repro housing costs the equivalent of about $37 USD (27.88BP* 1.3 Exch) plus S&H, Brass fitting looks to be extra. Not original but looks to be a great improvement! https://www.revingtontr.com/product/203781/name/thermostat-housing-tr2-4a For those who want to upgrade their existing housing, you can buy just the 5/8" - 18 UNF Male to 5/8" - 18 UNF brass adapter. Not sure where you can buy such an animal on this side of the pond by it must be available somewheres!



Barry
59 TR3A 0TS57675LO - "Loose Wheels"
76 TR6 CF54266U - "The Tweetster"
Website: Triumph TR2-TR3-TR4 www.trtriumph.com/ (sorry for not keeping it current for the past couple of years)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-08 05:36 AM by Jacad.


Attachments:
203781-housing.jpg    12.9 KB
203781-housing.jpg

TR4 Thermo Housing.jpg    19.8 KB
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TR3driver Randall Y
Confusion, Los Angeles, USA   USA
Or, just smear a little anti-seize on the threads and seat when you put it back together.

Another alternative, if the threads in the housing are damaged, is to tap the hole out to 3/8" NPT and buy the adapter. They are common, often come with aftermarket gauges. You can probably find one at your corner FLAPS https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-2263-Temperature-Adapter/dp/B00062YVMA



Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L Once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
7? Stag awaiting gearbox rebuild

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