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Suggestions for how to use scrap metal

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dplass Avatar
dplass Silver Member David P
Merrick, NY, USA   USA
1972 Triumph GT6 MkIII "The Beast"
2011 Ford Fusion
I find myself in possession of two bedframes, both in good condition. I've already built a welding cart (from new square tubing, before I even knew I would have the frames) so my question is:

What should I make with this scrap?

Ideas:

Floor stand for bandsaw
Rotisserie for body (though I'd be scared that it's not strong enough)
Welding table
Welding table surface for (plastic) work table
[Your idea here]



-D

1972 GT6 MK3 "The Beast"

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brucejon Avatar
brucejon Gold Member Bruce Jones
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A
1963 Triumph TR3B "Tupperware TR3"
1969 Triumph Spitfire MkIII
1972 Triumph TR6
I used bedrail to brace my TR3 body when taking it off the frame for major work.



60 TR3A (red), 62 TR3B project, 72 TR6, 69 Mk3 Spitfire EU setup
https://spitfiremk3.wordpress.com

dplass Avatar
dplass Silver Member David P
Merrick, NY, USA   USA
1972 Triumph GT6 MkIII "The Beast"
2011 Ford Fusion
Ah, of course. Great idea. I've heard conflicting suggestions regarding the need to brace the GT6.

In reply to # 1550252 by brucejon I used bedrail to brace my TR3 body when taking it off the frame for major work.



-D

1972 GT6 MK3 "The Beast"

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65or66 Jim B
Lake village, IN, USA   USA
1965 Triumph Spitfire MkII
1971 Triumph Stag
1973 Triumph Spitfire 1500 "Jusanudda Munny Pit"
David, I haven't been keeping up with you progress, but you're having waaaay too much funthumbs up

Don't know if you've done this already, but if you tack the bracing on the inside of the door opening flanges, you can put the doors back on to set the gaps on all the adjacent panels better. Actually putting the bracing on the inside with the doors still on in original position might be best. Then all the new panels can get set to 'almost' original positions, around the doors. Sucks when the door openings end up smaller than the doors. BTDT!

Also, put the H-brace back in to make sure that area doesn't sag. Maybe even stack a couple of washers under each mounting hole. The extra space will make it easier to put back in later. It's a bear to put back in after the cowl has sagged and everything is all welded up. DTT!! Not sure how much that happens on the GT6 if you leave the windscreen in, but the Spit is very bad for this. The weight of the 'screen, tho' not a lot, makes it sag quickly. Even without the screen, the frame and cowl always makes a handy spot to rest on, or push yourself from. That can make things move every time.

dplass Avatar
dplass Silver Member David P
Merrick, NY, USA   USA
1972 Triumph GT6 MkIII "The Beast"
2011 Ford Fusion
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm a little worried about door sag but hadn't thought about cowl sag. Not having the "H-brace" in place makes it a lot easier to work with removing the old floor and putting in the new one though. Maybe I"ll make a half-H-brace so it's partially supported.

(What does DTT mean?)



-D

1972 GT6 MK3 "The Beast"

Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
I've seen bedrail used for canvass awnings.

byakk0 Avatar
byakk0 Hazen Wardle
Boise, ID, USA   USA
DTT=Done that too (perhaps)

I've heard bed-rail is not always the best quality metal for welding... Just something to keep in mind.

I second leaving the doors on for bracing, another benefit of doing so is you can position the bracing so as to avoid the handles and knobs. I lucked out in this department, as I braced it with the doors off and tried fitting the door after the fact. Luckily I had placed the bracing such that it didn't interfere.



- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
~Hazen.

James E Avatar
James E Silver Member Jimmy Campbell
Bedford, VA, USA   USA
Bed rails are hi-tempered steel. Strong and tough. When I was a kid (1965) I was building a go-kart, took every tooth off of every hack saw blade my dad owned! How about making a low seat to sit on while working on cars or the parts you clean up on the floor. Scrap metal, I was in that business for 38 years 4 months and 21 days, just sayin'.

dplass Avatar
dplass Silver Member David P
Merrick, NY, USA   USA
1972 Triumph GT6 MkIII "The Beast"
2011 Ford Fusion
HA! That would explain why I've dulled 3 drill bits on them! Thanks for the info and suggestion

In reply to # 1565170 by James E Bed rails are hi-tempered steel. Strong and tough. When I was a kid (1965) I was building a go-kart, took every tooth off of every hack saw blade my dad owned! How about making a low seat to sit on while working on cars or the parts you clean up on the floor. Scrap metal, I was in that business for 38 years 4 months and 21 days, just sayin'.



-D

1972 GT6 MK3 "The Beast"



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-09-18 07:36 AM by dplass.

Doug in Vegas Avatar
Doug in Vegas Douglas D
Las Vegas, NV, USA   USA
If you have sagging shelves these will cure them.

brucejon Avatar
brucejon Gold Member Bruce Jones
Santa Cruz, CA, USA   USA
1960 Triumph TR3A
1963 Triumph TR3B "Tupperware TR3"
1969 Triumph Spitfire MkIII
1972 Triumph TR6
In reply to # 1565013 by byakk0 DTT=Done that too (perhaps)

I've heard bed-rail is not always the best quality metal for welding... Just something to keep in mind.

I second leaving the doors on for bracing, another benefit of doing so is you can position the bracing so as to avoid the handles and knobs. I lucked out in this department, as I braced it with the doors off and tried fitting the door after the fact. Luckily I had placed the bracing such that it didn't interfere.

I have welded them fine using them as cross bracing for a tr3



60 TR3A (red), 62 TR3B project, 72 TR6, 69 Mk3 Spitfire EU setup
https://spitfiremk3.wordpress.com

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